Hi Steve
Works printer is so thatyou dont have to use your own printer for lots of ink/ paper as these docs are quite large.
Send me your Address through personal email and I,ll post you a MAF to try. although "I" don,t think this is the sole problem your welcome to give it a go
Bob

 

Probably meant "printer at work" because it can take a lot of toner and paper.

Try printing out individual pages instead of the whole thing.

Or take the pdf file on a usb stick to a Kinko's or some other quick print place.

 

PS Might be Christmas when it gets there from UK so have it as a present from Santa.
PPS IF you come across a nice Koa ukuklele I wouldn,t say no to the swap
Bob

 

ppps,
Oh, and a grass skirt, always fancied going to work in one on fu/..,-g "dress down" Friday! Wht the f.,;ks that all about, for f.,k sake!!!!!
I digress, sorry!
Hoola Bob

 

MAFs, refurbished, from NAPA cost me only $75 with core swap. Says Toyota, but same DENSO part, if you should pursue that course.

I know it may take some time to reply, but like Steve, I'd also like to hear the summary of checks/repairs/symptoms/results.

 

A good question, as I'm starting to lose track myself at this point. What's been done so far:

1. Cooling system - replaced all hoses, thermostat and housing, steam cleaned radiator, flushed and refilled with orange coolant mix. (Flush and fill performed twice. Replaced T-stat twice)

2. Replaced throttle body with OEM new (with little sticker of eye looking at bulletin that's shown within the T-body bulletin)

3. Replaced spark plugs. Performed leak-down compression test. Cleaned wheel brake sensors.

4. Cleaned MAF, checked all accessible electrical plugs under hood and all relays everywhere (both sides under hood and in boot), access ECM and check seating of all relays & elec plugs, used dilectric grease on all female plug ends, swapped positions of all like relays, replaced air filter. reset ECM by disconnecting negative terminal and touching 3 times.

5. Check temperatures at various locations under hood, all appear to be within normal range. Have tech verify temps with actual temp guage to verify earlier findings. The car is not actually overheating.

6. Troubleshoot charging system, battery good, alternater good, no drain on battery.

7. Performed smoke test of vacuum system, identified 2 leaks. Replaced PCV tube and intake manifold gaskets. (The reason for the TDC codes of Fuel Mix too lean)

The car is running better, but still not right. Idle is midly rough after warm-up and throttle response and performance are still below par. The car runs very well when first started up in the morning, but performance degrades as it reaches "normal" operating temperature.

Failsafe continues to occur intermittently and for no appearent reason. When it occurs, the car will not restart until the engine has cooled down to barely warm to the touch. Then it starts and runs fine - until it warms up again.

NEXT: Print out the electrical information members have provided and perform troubleshooting. (Unless the above gives someone a better idea as to what's wrong with this car.)

A sincere Thank you to you all for all of your help. I appreciate it.

 

This morning on the way to work, I noticed the LED light on the cruise control button was on, but the button was still depressed to the off position.

This has happened twice now. If I depress it to pop it up into the "on" position and then back to "off", it goes out.

I have no idea if this has any bearing on anything or if it's even abnormal. Just clutching at straws and thought I'd mention it in the event it does have some meaning - like maybe an electrical short or something.

Thanks

 

ummmm... compression test?

 

I am not sure what you got going on but my guess is that you have a problem with the Throttle Body or the TB connections. You are not getting a code but you go into FailSafe Mode and the car will not start. You had said you replaced the TB and you still have the same problems but if it is not the TB then the plugs. If the TB were out of range / performance it will inhibit the speed control, cruise control, traction control / stability control and limits power limiting. The 1999 – 2001 has a TSB 303-58 that suggests that a compatibility issue exists with the TB plugs, I feel you have a same issue. I say same because the 1998 MY car is not listed under the TSB but the symptoms are the same. I could be wrong but if it were me I would pull the plug and comply with the TSB 303-58 as if it fell into that MY. This is a link to the information I have on it TBoddyPlug I hope it works!

 

See Item 3 on prior post of things already performed.

Thanks

 

Gus,

I found your link in another thread and checked those same plugs (along with the "T" vacuum line fitting below the Throttle body) when I checked all the other plugs. My plug stays are still good and the pins appear ok. I put a dab of dilectric grease on the female side and plugged everything back up.

But I'll check them again over the weekend.

Thanks,

 

Dielectric is a great application only when the strike value of the connections are tight. This suggestion of a poor connection should not be limited to the male and female connections it also applies to the crimp connection of the connector. Tale care to look them over.

 

coolant temperature...did you say you were monitoring it, via a scanner to compare with the gauge? My gauge always goes just above midway before settling down, normal coolant temp via the torque app on my phone and OBDII bluetooth adapter is between 180-190 at idle, getting up to 200-210 while driving. How does yours compare.

 

Matt,
I have been thinking about the temperature thing. What I do not know what could trip to prevent the car from starting. I was thinking about the cooling fan thermal switches but have not pulled the prints to see if they could be part of the problem.

 

I can't monitor while driving but right after a drive, stop and check it, and it's always under 200. The hotest recorded was 189.

And a new and unusual development regarding this in a new post in a minute.

Thanks,

 

You guys are all going to be convinced that I'm either jerking everyone's chain or a loon - or both.

This morning I drained the cooling system, disconnected the top hose, poured in a container of Zerex flush, filled the system as much as I could through the upper hose, buttoned it all back up and then started it and let it run for 30 min with the cap off. Every time a few bubbles appeared in the reservoir and the level dropped, I refilled it.

Then I put the cap on and let it just sit there and idle for about an hour, with blipping the throttle every 10 min or so. Then I followed the directions - drive for 3 to 6 hours. So I drove around for 4 hours. Some highway, mostly stop & go intercity. I also ran the heater during the drive.

Now here's whats bizarre - within the first hour of the drive - the car is idling so smooth I was looking at the tach at every stoplight to make sure it was running. Power and throttle response were back to pre-problem levels. It was like magic - and that's the only thing I've done.

The only other notable change is that now the temp gauge needle is it's own width below the middle mark on the gauge - and it's never been there before. Always right on the middle mark or it's own width above it. I don't have any means of checking the actual temp since it's Saturday. But I will next week.

As those of you that have been following this thread already know, I've paid to have the cooling system steam cleaned once and flushed twice. Neither time was I actually there to watch it being done. This time I did it myself. And low and behold there's a huge difference in the way the car runs.

I cannot explain this and about the only logical reason I can come up with is pure conjecture. But is it possible that some sensor somewhere in the cooling system was contaminated or maybe had some corrosion build-up on it or something - and a real good flush of the system cleaned it and allowed it to work properly?

Of course the verdict is still out on whether this has any effect on the Failsafe issue, but the car is at least running good, maybe even better than when I first bought it.

Your thoughts on this very unusual result will be appreciated.

Thanks,
Steve

 

My thoughts-"Kinnell" !!!
bob

 

if that car is not starting then check rotary switch

 

I'm gonna throw my arms up on this one then...

I always feel better when I can do the repairs myself, because I can always playback in my head what I did, looking for my mistakes if it isn't corrected.

Give it some more time, lets see how it is doing in a week or two of some daily driving.

 

The cooling system on the V8 is known to be particularly prone to airlocks unless meticulously filled and bled. The SC models are even more finicky. People who work on them know this. Perhaps your guys did not.

This might turn into a palm:face moment.