Forgot to use the spell checker when gluing the old emblems to the tool box.

Front of the engine mocked for radiator clearance - looks like a transformer.

Muffler pockets aka rear feet heaters.

Front carb vent appears to be through the line drawn by the level - cowel to nose. Carb is a 980 CFM from Pro Systems (no affiliation). Patrick says "that car is gonna be a handful, let me tell you!!"

Bandit inspects the belt drive mounting.


Thanks for looking!

 

Clyde,

I've been watching the share prices of Pirelli and Mintex they've been steadily rising and spike every time you post !

What a brute, fantastic job.

 

New pictures: throttle and clutch cables & mock wooden radiator of only the best Masonite.

 

Seems I've neglected to include a picture of my new hybrid power source - wooden hamster cage in the boot.
Got to thinking, Primaz, I forgot to allow for fax, copier, scanner, and slide our barbecue. Oh well, maybe in version 2.0.

 

Hey Clyde looks like you have the makings of a "woody" if you use all the mock up bits !

Not sure the rad will withstand a pressure test without a few more nails, it's only a suggestion mind, it could be ok.

Primaz spends so much time in the car I hear he's building an En suite trailer on the quiet.

 

Great build! Too bad we were not closer to watch you fire this beast up as I have the Grey Poupon, plenty of food and some cold ones in my trunk mounted refrigerator.


That extra large radiator is a good idea. I would recommend you get one shrouded with fans to get the most out of it. Keep in mind the bigger issue is not the size of the radiator in these Jags as my extra fin/row aluminum radiator that is the similar to the stock size has no issues with my V8. The real issue is getting air to flow thru and out of the engine bay. The ram air intake we put under the radiator and the openings in the rear of the engine bay are more important. You do not need that big of a radiator to cool that engine but what is harder is to get cool air to flow around and out of the engine bay...


You have such amazing metal skills that you might consider thinking of ways to funnel cool air in and out of the engine bay and if you need to reduce the radiator size that will be no issue on cooling the V8.

 

Primaz the Unknown,
Yuge (trump size) Radiator will be shrouded, dual fan, with controller. Air pickup is nose and both wheel wells. Coolant exits each head, through remote thermostat housings, into individual 16 -AN inlets on the radiator. Pickup side of the yuge radiator will hopefully be 1 3/4". Coolant will be pumped into the block by an electric water pump. The pump will also have 6 - AN feeds out of each leg to the rear of each head. The footwells are separated from the wheel wells leaving two 3" x 12" exits for air.
I'll take some of the design credit, but the welding skills belong to "Mike the Magnifico" (some of his real name, but not all of it).
Thanks for the comments!

 

That sounds good. You sound like you got way overkill to cool the engine.










Again keep in mind I found it was never the engine overheating but rather the engine compartment. The engine stayed cool but it was the engine bay getting too hot which caused issues with fuel lines, electronics, etc.

 

Primaz,
Thanks for the heads up on compartment heat. I'm a fan (careful of the pun) of the web site https://www.wirecare.com. Plenty of high tech solutions there.

 

FYI, I first used very similar high quality products like Heat Shield, Earl braided hoses/fittings, etc. to shield electrical, water, exhaust, intakes, and that did not solve it. The problem is that the Jaguar engine bay has no good induction of air that is cool and not coming thru the radiator. The air coming thru and after passing thru the radiator his hot. Also there is not enough of a path for the air to escape the engine bay in stock form and if you find a way to increase cool fresh air you need to increase a way for the air to exit toward the rear of the engine bay. Check out the pics in my posting as it is simple and it works; maybe with your mad fabrication skills you might find an even better way to direct fresh air and funnel it out?

 

Primaz, your front scoop looks like the ticket. I've got the air exit, but your right, no fresh air intake for the compartment. (I think you finally made it through my thinking cap.)
The fans will blow back across the headers, but with pre heated air.
Id say, but it's too soon, my compartment will be less contested - no HVAC, no battery. Coil & ignition box will be in the passenger compartment.
Thanks for the info and clarification.

 

Clyde,


I am glad you understand what I was trying to explain as I thought once you realize the real issue you would then come up with some out of the box way to funnel more fresh air in the engine bay that I never thought of? Especially with the impressive fabrication work on your car. I would love to see what thoughts you come up with that do not involve the simple way out of cutting holes in the hood...

 

Clyde,

primaz has switched me on the same road, I am going front scoop as primaz has unless you can conjure up another way before I get there, so get your thinking cap on so I can pinch the best solutions for myself !!!!

 

Jon, all other ways in to the compartment on mine are through the radiator - 31" wide. The only other option would be too complicated for a stock car - Ducts under the bumper, into the wheel well, then into the engine compartment.
Two small fans from the wheel well to the compartment would not likely move enough air. If you run the stock brake set up, no room for a fan on the booster side.
So, primaz' scoop is the easiest.
But I'll complicate it with an engine oil cooler under the radiator, and use his scoop to cool the oil cooler.
Remains to be seen for me with an aluminum engine and two fans blowing back on it. There is still a delta between the radiator air, block and header temperature. I have two large exits with the firewall setback. The fans will blow over the headers and right out those openings.

 

on my aluminum engine I have a push and puller fan and with the triangular holes right before the firewall the radiator fans would not create enough air flow to make any improvement. Once I added the ram air intake below the front air valance then a tremendous amount if air flowed in and out cooling the engine bay temperatures a lot. I do have two ram air intakes one cools the power steering aluminum cylindrical oil cooler and the other is to solely direct air around the V8.


I thought with your metal mastery that you would come up with some additional way being the wizard you are? Do you think some type of fan that is manually controlled could be used to vent the engine bay when the car is not moving? For me the ram air intake works well enough to keep the engine bay temps low so that I can still be fine with stop and go for an hour or more; although I do see the temps rise a little with stop and go over an hour and half or so. What I mean by temp rise is the engine temp rises only slightly but no where near overheating but I think as I saw before the ram air intake was added was that it was never the engine over heating but the engine bay overheating. Thus the engine never over heated but the engine bay temps got so hot the engine before the ram air intake had issues with electronics and fuel, etc. due to temps of the engine bay.


The ram air intake seems to work thus far but if there was a way to improve it for stop and go I would welcome your thoughts...

 

Perused Summit Racing & Grainger. 4" fans don't move enough air. Question becomes do you have the room on an inner fender to mount a 8" fan far enough away from a header so it does not melt. Pushing air in from a wheel well might purge the engine compartment at a stop. Temp controlled? idle signal from the computer to control?
Not likely enough space to pull this off.
Like my dad said of the store clerk "she was trying to stuff ten pounds of sh*t into a five pound sack"

 

This will probably solve all of your airflow issues in itself, by not allowing any air pressure build up in the engine bay.

 

Nope, by itself it will not solve it but with the addition of additional air pushed into the engine bay via a ram air intake in the front of the car it will work. I have two decent openings just in front of the firewall and prior to adding the ram air intake that did not work. The Jaguars do not have much air pressure in the engine bay as there is only one opening for the radiator. Thus when you put a V series engine there is very little pressure. Once I added the ram air intake under the front valence it scooped huge amounts of air and then with the exit holes it works but one did not solve it, it took both the ram air intake and the exit holes.

 

I cant really envisage the rear of wheel well openings currently, but if done properly can potentially create a negative pressure effect from passing airflow underneath the car, similar to how a sandblasting or paint gun work, not requiring the need for a ram air effect.

However in saying that, I will never just rely on one thing for the cooling system, sounds like you have every avenue covered in the engine side of things, but ducting to only allow the frontal air to go through the radiator setup or over the car, and not under by having a small front splitter really makes a huge difference.

 

My first steps were quality aluminum radiator with electric fans and that was not enough. Then all of the shielding, then header coating, power steering fluid cooler and that did not solve it completely either. While these helped a little the real issue to me is Jaguars do not have any openings to route air in the engine bay other than thru the radiator. Modern cars have air ducted into the engine bay that by pass the radiator so that cool air circulates the engine bay. Even Jaguars without a V8 can run a little hot due to this same flaw in stop and go traffic.


Lastly adding the ram air intake below the front valence, that scooped cold air up and into the engine bay by bypassing the radiator. Having cool air NOT going thru the radiator provided the extra air flow needed to vent the air in the engine bay then out of the triangular holes towards the firewall. It was a combo but the ram air made the most difference.