So my friend Brad says, ''Hey, my friend Roger has a Jag in
his basement he wants to get rid of''. I say ''Brad, I don't
need another project''. But as most of you know, one can
not have too many projects. This forum and others I've learned
I have ''Shipwrights Disease''. So the first winter in the
Keys, I give this Jag a short once over. Someone came from
New England to look at it, and Roger turned down his $1,500
offer. Move ahead one year and I'm thinking to myself, ''I'm
almost done with the '77 Jag, why not?''. Still took another
9 months for finish the '77. Short history of the car:
delivered into New York, first buyer in New Orleans, I'm
guessing a college students car in Tennessee next, then
Ohio, and last covered up in the basement of a house in the
Florida Keys. Now in several hundred pieces in Ohio
Started with a little picking here and there in May. When
things got serious, most of the disassembly took six
weeks. Hope to have it on the Auto Twirler (no
affiliation) by Thanksgiving - Bistro Table first.

Current Plan - and again no affiliation: retain as a
unibody with Art Morrison Enterprises full frame chassis,
dropping the ride height from 7'' to 5'', 370 cu in small
block Ford - 600 HP, with over drive, two seats, roll cage,
canvas interior door panels, clean, re-glue the wood, fresh
varnish - not a restoration, Auto Meter GT series gages,
wheel & tires TBD. Maybe two old fashion JC Whitney
defrost fans attached to the roll bar. Of Course, re
installing the Ahhh OOOOHH GAAA horn.

 

Good luck, it looks like you got a lot of passion and determination which is needed. I just finished my 3.8s resto-mod sleeper but I decided on a train horn

 

Another interesting project. Look forward to following this. I am planning a full chassis under my MK2, but haven't decided what or how yet.

 

Primaz,
A train horn is what is needed these days. I have enjoyed the pictures of your project. Thanks for the comment.


Alphatrev,
Working with Chris Bondy at Art Morrison (no affiliation). I'm not wanting to destroy the floor or firewall. in the dealer section of their web side a is a XK 140 on a straight rail frame setup, link attached. I've not seen their work up close and personal, but a friend saw a display chassis of theirs at a show. He said the welds & chassis are like jewelry.


1955 XK140 Jaguar by Deez Rodz & Ridez


So far the straight rail frame sounds like it will work, as this is what was used in the XK 140. I'm looking at the three link rear with a watts link and the GT Sport front suspension. Inside rail would replace the front to rear existing rail, but will be wider in the front, requiring inner fender work. I want to fit the outside rails into the rocker boxes. Three link may intrude into the back seat, but I won't have one to worry about. Working on a Bistro table for Thanksgiving, then back to the MK2.

 

I hope to post completed pictures and at least one video of the 3.8s soon...
That XK 140 is amazing! One recommendation for either of you is that a less extensive yet to me will accomplish what I think you are wanting which is a very strong frame to handle some crazy horsepower, etc. is just do what I did on my 240Z uni-body. What I did is weld in steel rails under the chasis and inside which essentially create a boxed frame rail. I did this in the center portion of the uni-body which is all that is needed to create a strong chassis as you would have with a full frame. Remember uni-body chassis are not bad as the front engine section and the rear axle areas are typically very strong; all that is missing is rails to tie the front to the back to create the effect of a framed car. The rail on the inside only is like a little less than half an inch high so it mimicked the stock fake rails the Z cars have and did not protrude up much. To me this is a heck of a lot less work. I also feel that not much if any extra strengthening is needed for a sedan but that is up to you?


FYI, I looked into a watts linkage and there was no room with the big rims I stuffed in. For me I am not going to try to drag the car off the line so the extra bracing, etc. is good enough to run it hard so long as I do not jump on it from a standstill, once the wheels are rolling a little I can give it full throttle and the car can take it. If you use a watts linkage you either need to flare the rear or really modify the rear to create more room otherwise you are not going to fit big wide tires. Remember the watts linkage takes up some width that is precious in these cars to put decent rubber on the road; they are not like an AC Cobra with a ton of room to add the watts linkage and still stuff big tires...

 

That XK is a beauty! Quality to aspire to. I can only hope my project ends up that good looking.

The Art Morrison chassis looks great. I have also been looking at Schwartz. In comparison, there seems to be a lot less metal in their products than what comes from Morrison or The Roadster Shop. The MK2 is renowned for being over engineered as an early unibody design, and I have already commented elsewhere about the 'built like a brick privy' front end structure when comparing to American cars of the 60's and 70's. So maybe it doesn't need so much structure in the chassis. I do intend to remove the frame rails from my car and any front and rear subframe mounting that will not be required. My car is very rust free, the XK looks like he replaced everything except the outer skin of the car.

I did talk to Schwartz about building a one off, but they seemed reluctant. They want the car in their workshop in order to custom build. Not in my budget! I have a lot of other stuff to do before I get to a chassis decision, but it is the most exciting part of the project, so I will keep on investigating so that I am well informed when the time comes.

 

[QUOTE=Alphatrev;1084552]That XK is a beauty! Quality to aspire to. I can only hope my project ends up that good looking.

The Art Morrison chassis looks great. I have also been looking at Schwartz. In comparison, there seems to be a lot less metal in their products than what comes from Morrison or The Roadster Shop. The MK2 is renowned for being over engineered as an early unibody design, QUOTE]



That XK140 is way beyond anything I will ever attempt. For me: Two Toyota Supra seats, canvas interior door panels, clean up the wood, Lizzard skin sound deadner, good gages, and a serious powertrain. When I added up what $ went into the front and rear of my 77XJL, and what is needed to do what I want to the MK2, the full chassis will save me time, and still not kill the budget. Budget, was I crazy to use that word? And, hey primaz, I fully to stand on it from a dead stop! lol

 

I will follow your build! Mine is not so ambitious, just a drive train swap. We may have parts(Jag) to swap.

 

We are all ambitious! It's a requirement. When I say "All I have to do is...", I know I am in trouble!

 

Love your xj must get one. Have a lot of projects.
my 468 and others

 

Blurooster,
are you sure your pictures are not trick photography done with mirrors?


Thanks for the kudos on my 77.

 

I have 10 engines on stands, Ford, Chevy, Cadillac and four banger with two empty stands. Can you say OCD, I have a powerglide, th350, th400 x3, 700r4 x2 and a C-4 autos. I also have Muncie, Saginaw x2, t-5 x2, top loader and NV3500 standards.
I am trying to corner the market on being kinda dumb....

 

so I said to my neighbor, your welds for your plow brackets look pretty good, nothing broke, right?


Two days and 25 hours later:


Thanks, Doug Dooren

 

Chassis measurements complete. Engineering print ordered from Art Morrison Enterprises.
Full chassis, brakes, steering, third member, and suspension replacement in the works.

 

Looks good. So how much chassis/frame rail are you going to have to remove to get the new one in place?

 

alphatrev


Entire factory frame will be removed - starting with the front crossmember (likely to graft the front crossmember back in place) all the way to the rear.


May or may not tub the rear slightly.


Spare tire well will be removed - hoping to get a fuel tank/fuel cell and tail pipes between the rails behind the rear axle.


New frame will be welded back in place - retaining the uni-body design.

 

FYI, I used a 1965 Mustang gas tank where the spare tire was and it fits perfect. Only issue is keeping stock gauges the top end of the spectrum drops faster the last 3/8 of the spectrum goes slow but reads correctly.

 

Primaz,
Thanks for the mustang tank idea. I went back through your build and reviewed the tank pictures.
Have you thought about wrapping, or felt the need to wrap the resonators/second mufflers to keep the heat off of the tank?

 

Here is the diagram of the new chassis from Art Morrison ( no affiliation). Things are taking shape.

 

I never thought of any wrapping but I will check it out and think if that is reason to do so.


That new chassis looks very impressive and strong. So are those tire sizes what they believe will clear the stock body when using their frame? That would be very good for performance as those are nice wide 275 wide rear tires and the same as mine for the front, the 245