Newbie with Lurch
#21
Change the fluid regardless. The pan is plastic and has an integrated filter built in. The Torx pan bolts are too small and an odd size from the factory. The sleeve is a leaker almost guaranteed.
Change:
1. The fluid-The Lifeguard6 fluid is now down to about $15-18/Liter. Use this or whatever you think will work. 6-8 L.
will be needed depending on how long you let the tranny drain.
2. The plastic pan and filter.
3. Change all the pan bolts to the larger Torx ones.
4. Replace the sleeve-since you have the pan dropped. It's too easy and cheap at this point to not do it.
5. Clear the adaptations and get the TCM reflashed as per the TSB. The TCM is inside the transmission.
6. Double check the 2 small 6mm or 8 mm bolts on the driver’s side of the case. It holds on the shift cable and are known to loosen up and even fall out. I removed mine and used blue Loctite on them to keep them secure.
I really recommend our friend Claus. I got all my parts and fluid from him.
The CTSC - ZF Parts
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.
.
Change:
1. The fluid-The Lifeguard6 fluid is now down to about $15-18/Liter. Use this or whatever you think will work. 6-8 L.
will be needed depending on how long you let the tranny drain.
2. The plastic pan and filter.
3. Change all the pan bolts to the larger Torx ones.
4. Replace the sleeve-since you have the pan dropped. It's too easy and cheap at this point to not do it.
5. Clear the adaptations and get the TCM reflashed as per the TSB. The TCM is inside the transmission.
6. Double check the 2 small 6mm or 8 mm bolts on the driver’s side of the case. It holds on the shift cable and are known to loosen up and even fall out. I removed mine and used blue Loctite on them to keep them secure.
I really recommend our friend Claus. I got all my parts and fluid from him.
The CTSC - ZF Parts
.
.
.
#22
hello im am too a newbie and i just bought an s type...
and i TOO have this lurch lol
and i ALSO have a sqeaky steering wheel..
i read every single reply and there is alot of stuff i just dont understand with these numbers and codes u guys r using...
so my question is
what kind of fluid do i get for my squeaky steering wheel?
and
whats the best tranny fluid i can use to help stop this "lurch" i will try flushing the tranny fluid before i go get a reflash since its easier on my wallet
thx ahead for the advice
and i TOO have this lurch lol
and i ALSO have a sqeaky steering wheel..
i read every single reply and there is alot of stuff i just dont understand with these numbers and codes u guys r using...
so my question is
what kind of fluid do i get for my squeaky steering wheel?
and
whats the best tranny fluid i can use to help stop this "lurch" i will try flushing the tranny fluid before i go get a reflash since its easier on my wallet
thx ahead for the advice
#23
and i just checked ..the lifeguard ZF tranny fluid is for bmw and audi...
im on the site right now and there is no jaguar sign on it lol
ZF Lifeguard Fluid for BMW, Porsche, Volkswagen, and Audi « EAC Euro Parts
im on the site right now and there is no jaguar sign on it lol
ZF Lifeguard Fluid for BMW, Porsche, Volkswagen, and Audi « EAC Euro Parts
#24
and i just checked ..the lifeguard ZF tranny fluid is for bmw and audi...
im on the site right now and there is no jaguar sign on it lol
ZF Lifeguard Fluid for BMW, Porsche, Volkswagen, and Audi « EAC Euro Parts
im on the site right now and there is no jaguar sign on it lol
ZF Lifeguard Fluid for BMW, Porsche, Volkswagen, and Audi « EAC Euro Parts
There is much information on this site in regards to that.
hello im am too a newbie and i just bought an s type...
and i TOO have this lurch lol
and i ALSO have a sqeaky steering wheel..
i read every single reply and there is alot of stuff i just dont understand with these numbers and codes u guys r using...
so my question is
what kind of fluid do i get for my squeaky steering wheel?
and
whats the best tranny fluid i can use to help stop this "lurch" i will try flushing the tranny fluid before i go get a reflash since its easier on my wallet
thx ahead for the advice
and i TOO have this lurch lol
and i ALSO have a sqeaky steering wheel..
i read every single reply and there is alot of stuff i just dont understand with these numbers and codes u guys r using...
so my question is
what kind of fluid do i get for my squeaky steering wheel?
and
whats the best tranny fluid i can use to help stop this "lurch" i will try flushing the tranny fluid before i go get a reflash since its easier on my wallet
thx ahead for the advice
I would plan on spending hours reading through stuff on here to get an understanding of the car you got. Start your own thread to bring up things you don't understand. Many people here that will gladly assist you along the way, just put in equal effort is all they ask.
#25
I expect hardly anyone (if anyone at all) did a fluid change without first trying the reflash because the fluid is far more work and usually vastly more expensive. I doubt Search or google are up to the task of finding out other than rather generalised searches and a lot of trawling through posts on at least this and the UK forum. More work than I'd want to do.
#26
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Perth Ontario Canada
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The link below, although it's from our friends on a BMW site, seems to indicate that the lurch is caused solely by programming quirks. I fail to understand how a fluid change would affect this
http://forums.5series.net/topic/2246...83#entry243083
#27
Brizco88, the fluid for steering squeak is C2S 48887, available from Jag dealer, cost about $12. However, search "steering wheel squeak" on this forum for the TSB's on this subject. You will see that corrective action depends on Jag model & VIN.
I saw somewhere that tranny fluid should be changed at 60,000 miles, so I am going to do it anyway, and check the result on the lurch before re-flashing. Keep watching this thread.
I saw somewhere that tranny fluid should be changed at 60,000 miles, so I am going to do it anyway, and check the result on the lurch before re-flashing. Keep watching this thread.
#28
Many here, including me, feel that is too long. That, I'm sure, is where you are getting the 60k number. I personally would do it. It very well maybe overkill but at the same time you don't really know how the previous owner drove it. Service it and rest easy.
BTW, the service manual for my current car states a fluid service at 60k... They started with 100k when the car came out in 05... Hmmm.. Mercedes trans though but does also run a synthetic fluid.
#29
Just for the record, here is the link:
Jaguar maintenance schedules for Series II and III, XJ6, XJ12, Double Six, XJS models.
Jaguar maintenance schedules for Series II and III, XJ6, XJ12, Double Six, XJS models.
#30
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Perth Ontario Canada
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Just for the record, here is the link:
Jaguar maintenance schedules for Series II and III, XJ6, XJ12, Double Six, XJS models.
Jaguar maintenance schedules for Series II and III, XJ6, XJ12, Double Six, XJS models.
A three year brake fluid change is recommended that conflicts with the Jag interval- and they say 'done preferably in the spring. HUH?
Here's the Jag schedule:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...sel-faq-67634/
#31
Thanks for that info, Mikey. Too bad that Jaguar did not see fit to include that service info in my owner's manual. In any event, it's not like the "independent" service info was misleading - for starters, living in a city, I certainly do not intend to go 10,000 miles between oil changes. What the hell, when you're a newbie, you do the best you can.
#32
#34
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#35
#38
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#39
the reason i think it may have a problem is because when i turn the sports mode on sometimes during normal driving it usually dont shift in 6th gear it stays in 5th (and now it stays in 6th in sports mode) and during wot it shift at the normal rev limit and not at the rasied shift points (250-300rpm more) when i first got the car it was fine and shifting normally and sport mode was working properly in till i starting noticing the lurch..
#40
the reason i think it may have a problem is because when i turn the sports mode on sometimes during normal driving it usually dont shift in 6th gear it stays in 5th (and now it stays in 6th in sports mode) and during wot it shift at the normal rev limit and not at the rasied shift points (250-300rpm more) when i first got the car it was fine and shifting normally and sport mode was working properly in till i starting noticing the lurch..
The "sport button" is nothing more than a trigger to the TCM. Really nothing to break...