Change the fluid regardless. The pan is plastic and has an integrated filter built in. The Torx pan bolts are too small and an odd size from the factory. The sleeve is a leaker almost guaranteed.

Change:

1. The fluid-The Lifeguard6 fluid is now down to about $15-18/Liter. Use this or whatever you think will work. 6-8 L.
will be needed depending on how long you let the tranny drain.

2. The plastic pan and filter.

3. Change all the pan bolts to the larger Torx ones.

4. Replace the sleeve-since you have the pan dropped. It's too easy and cheap at this point to not do it.

5. Clear the adaptations and get the TCM reflashed as per the TSB. The TCM is inside the transmission.

6. Double check the 2 small 6mm or 8 mm bolts on the driver’s side of the case. It holds on the shift cable and are known to loosen up and even fall out. I removed mine and used blue Loctite on them to keep them secure.

I really recommend our friend Claus. I got all my parts and fluid from him.


The CTSC - ZF Parts
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hello im am too a newbie and i just bought an s type...

and i TOO have this lurch lol

and i ALSO have a sqeaky steering wheel..

i read every single reply and there is alot of stuff i just dont understand with these numbers and codes u guys r using...

so my question is

what kind of fluid do i get for my squeaky steering wheel?
and
whats the best tranny fluid i can use to help stop this "lurch" i will try flushing the tranny fluid before i go get a reflash since its easier on my wallet

thx ahead for the advice

 

and i just checked ..the lifeguard ZF tranny fluid is for bmw and audi...

im on the site right now and there is no jaguar sign on it lol

ZF Lifeguard Fluid for BMW, Porsche, Volkswagen, and Audi « EAC Euro Parts

 

The site your on specializes in German and Swedish makes, so safe to say that there won't be a reference to Jaguar. Also, ZF transmissions are used in many other makes than those listed. Hyundai, Land Rover, and Chrysler come to mind as well.

There is much information on this site in regards to that.

Based on the site you posted, the fluid alone will cost over $170.00. That doesn't even include the pan/filter, bolts, and labor if you don't do it yourself. So, based on that the reflash is the cheaper option. You can usually bundle it with a full vehicle inspection at a good dealer for less than a transmission service. Not that I don't recommend a service, normally that would be something I would do just because I bought a car used. Since you didn't list any real details about your car, that too would be just a wild guess.

I would plan on spending hours reading through stuff on here to get an understanding of the car you got. Start your own thread to bring up things you don't understand. Many people here that will gladly assist you along the way, just put in equal effort is all they ask.

 

I expect hardly anyone (if anyone at all) did a fluid change without first trying the reflash because the fluid is far more work and usually vastly more expensive. I doubt Search or google are up to the task of finding out other than rather generalised searches and a lot of trawling through posts on at least this and the UK forum. More work than I'd want to do.

 

I believe you've got your priorities backwards. There's plenty of examples of the reflash by itself curing the lurch and a factory bulletin covering this. Not to thrash things again, but I can find no examples of a fluid change alone having any effect on the lurch, nor can I find any Jag bulletins that allude to this. Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong.

The link below, although it's from our friends on a BMW site, seems to indicate that the lurch is caused solely by programming quirks. I fail to understand how a fluid change would affect this

http://forums.5series.net/topic/2246...83#entry243083

 

Brizco88, the fluid for steering squeak is C2S 48887, available from Jag dealer, cost about $12. However, search "steering wheel squeak" on this forum for the TSB's on this subject. You will see that corrective action depends on Jag model & VIN.

I saw somewhere that tranny fluid should be changed at 60,000 miles, so I am going to do it anyway, and check the result on the lurch before re-flashing. Keep watching this thread.

 

My 05 owners manual states that it should be done at 100k.

Many here, including me, feel that is too long. That, I'm sure, is where you are getting the 60k number. I personally would do it. It very well maybe overkill but at the same time you don't really know how the previous owner drove it. Service it and rest easy.

BTW, the service manual for my current car states a fluid service at 60k... They started with 100k when the car came out in 05... Hmmm.. Mercedes trans though but does also run a synthetic fluid.

 

Just for the record, here is the link:

Jaguar maintenance schedules for Series II and III, XJ6, XJ12, Double Six, XJS models.

 

That's some independent dealer's idea of what should be done- not the factory recommendation. I see they recommend an oil change at 7500 miles. Wonder where they pulled that arbitrary number from?

A three year brake fluid change is recommended that conflicts with the Jag interval- and they say 'done preferably in the spring. HUH?

Here's the Jag schedule:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...sel-faq-67634/

 

Thanks for that info, Mikey. Too bad that Jaguar did not see fit to include that service info in my owner's manual. In any event, it's not like the "independent" service info was misleading - for starters, living in a city, I certainly do not intend to go 10,000 miles between oil changes. What the hell, when you're a newbie, you do the best you can.

 

Hmm. Let me see what manuals I still have on my computer when I get home.... Oh, Valentine's Day.. Make that tomorrow morning at my typical early AM...

 

OK, reporting back. Tranny fluid, pan, filter, gasket, etc. changed as tbird6 recommended.
I am pleased to report that the lurch problem has all but disappeared. I will monitor it for a few weeks, but will probably have the tranny reflashed anyway. Looking good.

 

Interesting info, thanks- I was looking for this very thing just last week.

 

Hope it works for you. Good luck, and keep us posted....

 

i also im experiencing lurch symptoms lol, and my S mode is not work also but the light come on, it this common with the lurch??

 

Anyone???

 

I've never heard of non-functioning sport mode having a connection with the lurch. If the light comes on, how do you know the sport mode is not functioning? It makes very little or no difference in gentle/average driving.

 

the reason i think it may have a problem is because when i turn the sports mode on sometimes during normal driving it usually dont shift in 6th gear it stays in 5th (and now it stays in 6th in sports mode) and during wot it shift at the normal rev limit and not at the rasied shift points (250-300rpm more) when i first got the car it was fine and shifting normally and sport mode was working properly in till i starting noticing the lurch..

 

Try getting the transmission reflashed. This will clear the adaptations as well. It is incorrect that the transmission stays in 5th while in sport mode. It will go in, just takes a little more time. When you get it flashed, there is a specific driving cycle you as the owner must perform beyond what the Jaguar tech has to do. The first time I had mine flashed, they forgot to tell me and I didn't read it in service manual until it was too late. They did it again, and remembered to tell me that time. I had also read about it in the service manual.

The "sport button" is nothing more than a trigger to the TCM. Really nothing to break...