Hello!

I just bought my first ever Jaguar last Saturday. It's rather old and driven car but I LOVE how gorgeous the car is!!

I brought the car to the annual inspection and now I am in need of fixing several issues as to get this car a new registration paper!

Here are the issues

• Body rust
• Rear lower (backside) bushing is shot
• Right front light bulb is weak/broken
• Rear side draft shaft is leaky

Now, I will have to book a time at some garage to get the welding and leaky seal fixed.

But I feel like I have to DIY the rear-lower control arm to save some money!

I could not find very good how-to videos on Youtube yet.. Is this something straight forward?

In the past, I have replaced Alfa Romeo 156's front upper and lower control arms and it was very hard for me. I also replaced Volvo XC90's lower front control arms and it was not that easy but easier than Alfa's.

Now, how difficult or easy is it to replace the Jaguar's rear lower control arm?

Is there a special trick or angle I need to be aware of?

Please help me find the source or advise me with your experiences!

Best Regards,

 

I think people just follow the workshop manual (JTIS). Free download.

 

Thx but it seems to be paid download on Jaguar S-Type Workshop Manual

Do you know how to find the free one? Google won't let me.

 

Try here https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/g...rchives-65926/
Don't forget that intro in the new members section. New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum

 

Yay thanks but OUCH with my macbook!!

 

That will make it trickier!

 

Any chance do you or anyone has the PDF file for the Jaguar S-type that you can share it via pm or email by attachment?

 

Try this https://www.mediafire.com/folder/luzulsu07dpcc/jaguar thanks to police666

 

I think I got it. I think it's technical guide S_Type.pdf.
Thank you a lot!

 

EDIT: that's not the right one, the correct workshop file says workshop in the file name. Best Regards,

 

I made several suspension improvements on my 2000 SType and posted it on my page. See if this helps.

Link JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

 

Whoa.. this is genius! Thanks a lot for documenting it all!

I will look for how to replace rear lower control arm from your link now!!

 

I had replaced the bushings on the rear lower control arm but I do not think I did a procedure but it was not difficult to do. If you need a little info I will try to put it together for you.

 

I am the most nervous about rusty bolts.. tips as to how to get enough clearance for the control arm to come out of the car would be appreciated too.

Is there a trick to remove it easily or do I have to concern about certain things like eg. when changing front lower arm, you need to "hang" brake unit somewhere as not to stress CV joint and etc..

 

Especially the arb link.. I have NEVER been able to unbolt them as the bolts and threads are always so beyond rusty that I had to cut them to get the control arms out. I wonder how the workshop always seem to succeed to open them. Maybe the impact wrench is doing the trick? Not sure.

 

You will be surprised at how easy it is. If you are concerned with rusted bolts just spray them with PB Blaster and let it sit for a few and they will come off. I need to look for my photos but you can do this on your own.

 

If it's anything like here, PB etc will only shift some bolts. Others are too rusted.

 

Ask a biker how to remove old rusted bolts.
We could do a whole thread on that?

Best way bar none is to apply heat to the bolt in the form of a blow torch.
Tricky because its near the petrol tank.
But using a fire blanket to protect vital components and doing it outdoors could help that. With a gas torch you can apply very local gentle flame.
But I haven't seen the installation so caution is advised.


So you know how it works:
My next door neighbor is a full time vehicle technician for a fleet user.
I needed some new rear shock absorbers fitting to my Ford Mondeo and asked him to fit them for me.
I went out to see if he wanted a tea or coffee and he said these pinch bolts aren't half tight. So I said stop right there, do nothing and wait for one minute while I get my blow torch. I dashed through the house into the garage and brought back my butane/propane lamp to find the idiot had ignored what I had said and carried on and sheared the bolt head off.
4 hours later of very carefull drilling and he had removed the remainder of the bolt and thread. Fair play to him but why the hell didn't he listen in the first place?
The other side took 20 minutes to fit because he used the heat.

This is the exact model I have.

 

I will add to that to use a plain 6 sided socket not a multi-facet socket because they turn and round off the bolt corners.
Also use a decent length tommy bar if you can, say a 2, 2.5 or 3 foot tommy bar.