Hey Guys,

I just had my Fuel Filter, Air Filter and Cabin Filter replaced yesterday. Also had my Fuel Intake cleaned as well.

This morning, I wanted to take my Jag for a spin, to open her up so she could breath through all her new filters, and before I can get out of my driveway, I see "Cruise Not Available" come up on the message board, and my Check Engine light goes on?

I drove around my block, and when I hit 3200/3400 RPMs the car seemed to slightly buck while changing gears...mostly in 3rd and 4th.

Questions:

1) Could this be caused by any of the work I had done yesterday?
2) Is the car drivable when this comes on?
3) Does anyone have a gun so I can shoot my face off?

Cmon - isn't this crap supposed to happen to guys who neglect their Jags and don't love them like I do??

 

Nothing you had done should cause this. You need to have the engine codes read before any diagnoses can be made.

 

Anything you did, maybe with the exception of the cabin filter, could be the cause and probably is if you've jarred something loose in making the changes. You are describing "limp mode" where the car is restricted in performance until what ever is wrong is corrected. I'm betting you've loosened a vacuum fitting. Check to make sure nothing is unattached. Get the codes for the CEL read if you aren't able to immediately see the problem.

 

UPDATE: The "Cruise Not Available" message is no longer showing, but the Check Engine light is still on..?? Also the car is no longer bucking through the gears...

Question: How do I check/get the codes for the CEL? Is this something I can do or does it have to be done at Jag or can I go to a Midas / Aamco?

Thanks for your replies guys!

 

Get an OBDII code reader (it will come in handy) or have a local parts store pull the codes for you. They will still be stored. If it was a temporary glitch, the CEL will go out after 5 or so cold starts on it's own.

 

UPDATE #2:

Well I had the codes read at Aamco.

It came back that my fuel pressure was low and something with the fuel filter.

They went back, checked all hoses, and seals to make sure nothing was loose.

They were very confident that the new fuel filter was the cause. They explained that since my old fuel filter was so neglected (dirty gas poured out of it once removed) that the engine had to adjust to the clean filter - in essence given me a higher octane - which set off the CEL...does that make sense?

They reset the CEL and I drove to work (45 miles) at around 70 MPH and she seems to be driving perfectly.

I was told that if the CEL comes back on, then they will look into what parts may be causing the trouble (O2 sensors were discussed).

 

Suppose it could be. Keep an eye on it and we'll all hope for the best for you.

 

Good Luck, got the same message and car has not run for over a week and a half. Mo closer to finding out what is wrong with it. 37,000 miles and dead. No indication anything was wrong either.

 

UPDATE #3:

Today I drove about 100 miles - and the CEL stayed off.

When I got home, my wife asked to go get milk. On the way to the store, the CEL came back on, and Cruise Not Available came on and 10 seconds later went off - but CEL stayed on.

On the way back I stopped at AutoZone and they read the following codes:

P0171
P0174
P1000 (this is because I had the computer reset by Aamco the other day)

On the way back from AutoZone, my CEL went off...

Do you think it could just be something simple like a leaky hose or a loose hose or a hole in a hose somewhere? I ask only because the CEL keeps going on then off...???

JAG GODS - PLEASE SHOW SOME LOVE TO MY BABY - SHE'S ONLY A WEEK OLD (for me)!!!

 

0171 and 0174 are both banks running lean. 99% sure you have a vacuum leak. most likely one of the three usual culprits or you've got a vacuum hose out of place from the work you did. do you hear a "hissing" sound by any chance?

 

Hey Mayor, my 02 Jag did this also after i changed the fuel filter and air filter. When i changed the fuel filter out it had like black crap in it. Not cool. But my cruise not available would pop up here and there then go away and do the same things yours did. I eventually changed the IMT o-rings in the intake, not sure if it fixed it, but never had a prob after.
But what the mechanic said makes sense as these cars seem to be finicky with changes.

Dave

 

The engine is making more of a moaning/hissing sound...but I hear it while driving...Is there something to listen for while stopped?

Where should I put my ear to listen? Under the hood? Near my new fuel filter? Under the engine?

God I hate not having any mechanical skills...

 

Again, that sounds like a vacuum problem. If your actually hearing it then it makes sense as you build vacuum under acceleration. This is were it helps to have a friend to push the gas pedal while the hood is popped. But if you cant, then check the vacuum hoses visually. Just my .02 cents. Or anywhere that sucks air. Like around the air filter seein how it was just changed.

 

Facing the car, at the passenger side fender, you will see two round black units. These are the IMT valves. They will hiss if the o-rings are leaking. More likely, you moved the top of the air box when you put in your new filter and you may have dislodged something else. It could be that the PVC hose, right center, near the air box could have a split on the underside. Less likely is the brake booster hose, rear of engine running from the intake to the brake booster has deteriorated. If you search the X-type forum under "vacuum leak" P0171, P0174 there should be pictures of these three areas in one or more of the threads. The lean codes all point to a vacuum leak somewhere.

If in doubt, your mechanic can shoot a bit of smoke into the intake and it should show where any vacuum leak is. The other method discussed is spraying carb cleaner and listening for RPM changes.

 

Holy #$% - that was it! Mohrd you nailed it...there is a major hissing sound coming from the top black IMT Valve. See the picture / arrow showing (took this picture from another thread - so it not my car) - it actually looks like there is a small space between the black plastic and the metal it is bolted to? I hope the black part doesnt have a small piece cracked off - is that possible?
Questions:

1) Is it ok to drive with this hiss? I have to drive about 100 miles tomorrow before getting the O-Ring - is that bad?

2) Do you think that when I had the Fuel Intake cleaned, that they didnt tighten it back on? Should I try and tighten it first?

3) Would this have been what they remove to clean that area?

Ive read here that the top one can be just pulled out then replaced with a new one...is that correct? I dont have to do anything else except remove those 2 bolts, yank out the O-Ring, replace it, and redo the bolts - right?



Thank you so much everyone for helping me find the issue!!!

 

With all do respect Mayor, lol, i mentioned it in my post before. About the IMT o-rings. LOL. Its all good tho

 

Also, just my opinion again.... when they supposedly cleaned whatever they cleaned in your intake it is possible that they didnt tighten them back properly. Or, when they pulled them out it disrupted the seal as the problem is, the o-rings get dry rotted and crack and stuff. The space your seeing isnt where the o-ring is, i thought that too. But yes all you have to do is take of the 2 bolts to access the o-ring. Just pull out the IMT valve. Replace the ring.

BTW the new o-rings should be green. "new and improved" version.

FYI to get to the bottom o-ring you unfortunately have to remove the intake to access it Good luck and let us know if you have any more questions!!

Dave

 

you could check the two bolts to see if they are just finger tight instead of being snugged down. you don't want to over torque them. Drive 100 miles on restricted performance on purpose? Not something I would do.

For the bottom o-ring you don't have to remove the intake. There is enough space when you loosen the IMT that you can snip the old o-ring to remove it and the new one will slip over top (gently) and into place.

Good call I <3

 

UPDATE #4:

Ok - I changed out the O-Rings (with the GREEN ones), and you guys were right, even for a mechanical tard like me the both were changed out in under 20 min. $7 for both from my local Jag Dealer. (Thank you I <3 X - you da man!)

Now I dont hear any hissing by the IMT, but I do hear a bit of hissing just under the plasctic engine cover - on the severe left side. There is a hose running from left to right there. It travels just under the top left corner of the plastic engine cover.

This is not the hose that runs from front to back on the right side - that hose makes no noise and seems to be the newer one, since it has the ribs/ridges on it that others have said is the replacement.

Any ideas which hose that is and is it normally an issue?

FYI - the CEL was off all morning until I changed out the O-Rings - and once both were swapped out, the CEL came back on. Is that normal?

 

LOL... MOHRD hey you called it too and i just felt alittle left out. And good call on the slide over the other side. Never thought of it cuz it seemed sketchy. lol


Um as far as the CEL coming back on, maybe it has something to do with the hose you are now describing?