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  #1  
Old 05-19-2009, 12:28 PM
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Default X-Type Wont Start. Minor or Major?

Hi, I Have a 2006 jaguar x type. I have had it for a little over a year and no problems.
Last night I removed the factory subwoofers and installed a line - out converter where the factory subwoofer/speakers were. This was in the trunk area. I have the alpine premium sound system (if that helps).

Today I went to go start my car, and nothing. It would not start. I thought i had to jump it so I tried and still it would not start up. Can somebody give me any ideas or help on what is wrong?

Thanks,
Jim
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Old 05-19-2009, 02:30 PM
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First check to make sure your installation does not have a short that could be draining the battery.

Check the battery voltage

Check your battery connections, clean and tighten if necessary

If all checks out, re-disconnect the battery, wait 10 -15 min, reconnect and try again
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  #3  
Old 05-19-2009, 02:48 PM
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the battery seems to be working fine, as i get the radio and all the lights on the car work. I have tried to jump the car and also disconnect and re connect the battery and still nothing. Everything on the car is funstion besides the A/C. The car just wont start.
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  #4  
Old 05-19-2009, 03:05 PM
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If your battery is old you may need to replace it. I had all similar symptoms, everything inside the car worked fine, light were bright, stereo system sounded great and everything seemed to be normal. This happened when I was doing my hid conversion, left the key in the on position too long. But I bet your amp is always on even when you shut the car off. This would defo kill the battery over night - been there done that. But it would always start with a jump.

Get a new battery, trust me, the car will start.
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Old 10-29-2009, 09:11 PM
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I'm having almost the same issue. With my situation, I didn't remove the battery or fiddle with anything in my car. It got me to work this morning but when I came to leave, it wouldn't start.

Radio, Lights, Windows etc., worked just like jim.logan was experiencing. So I got picked up by my brother and went to autozone and bought a battery and installed it and it STILL won't turn on. It turns over but doesn't fire up. All I hear is clicking noises when I turn the key and if I hold it it just clicks repeatedly.

The only thing I can probably think of, now that I am home, researching my issue and not in the heat of the moment, is that my old battery had some corrosion due to a cracked negative terminal. I poured coke on it at work but I never properly cleaned it off the actual terminals as good as maybe I should have? But it's a brand new battery I went out and bought and the lights and everything turn on so it's making connection.

Or can it be that high resistance connection Thermo once suggested in previous posts? I don't know. I'm just a little upset I had to leave it in the parking lot of my job and now I have to tow it 41 miles to my mechanic which is going to cost me almost $200 alone, because my job is in Butt F*@# Egypt. Not to mention $139.99 battery from Autozone.

I also work tomorrow morning at 8am, lol, I would say things can't get any worse, but we all know they really really can lol.

Any ideas? Should I maybe go clean that terminal a little bit better before getting it towed? or is it the starter relay or??

Thanks in advanced.
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Old 01-15-2010, 02:26 PM
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I am having the same problem except my Jag will not turn over. My starter is fine already tested. Changed the ignition relay waht next??? All my warning lights work and all lights work as well as the radio. Don't know? Need help. Taking off the battery to have it tested as well.
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  #7  
Old 01-15-2010, 06:21 PM
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Jim, when you say that the car won't start, are you meaning that the engine will turn over, but will not fire? Or, do you mean that the engine will not turn over with the starter? This makes a big difference in where the troubleshooting takes us. Let me know and I will help you get your kitty purring again.
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Old 01-16-2010, 07:38 AM
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I get all power, lights, warning lights, fuel pump. But the car wont turn over. I get a gearbox fault warning. I tested the starter and it is fine. Battery tested great.
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Old 01-16-2010, 09:18 AM
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Aaron, first, I want you to remove the R10 relay (starter relay). Locate Pin 1 on the relay. Now, relate that to pin 1 inside the fuse box. Connect a multimeter between Pin 1 and chassis ground (set multimeter to read 20 VDC). Do you get 12 VDC when you rotate the ignition key to the "START" (III) position? If no, then you have a problem with your ignition switch or the wiring between the ignition switch and the relay. Let me know and I will give you further checks to make if you can't figure it out. If you do get 12 VDC for this check, next move the lead from Pin 1 and put it into Pin 3. Do you have 12 VDC here (doesn't matter the position of the ignition switch for this check)? If no, replace fuse XX and if you still don't have 12 VDC, then you have a wiring problem (again, write me and I will give you all sorts of checks to do).

Finally, using a set of alligator clips (or the aide of a friend), connect up the multimeter to the large post of the starter and chassis ground. Now, using a piece of 14 gauge solid wire, install the piece of wire between Pins 3 and 5 inside the fuse box. Does the multimeter drop but stay above 11.0 VDC? If the voltage stays at 12.6 VDC (above 12.3 VDC), then move the multimeter lead over to the small post and see if you have 12 VDC there? If not, then you have a wiring problem between the relay and the starter. If you got between 11.0 and 12.6 VDC with the multimeter lead on the big post of the starter, then your starter is attempting to start the car, but it can't develop enough torque, new starter is required. Finally, if the voltage dropped below 11.0 VDC, you have a bad battery cable, corroded terminal on the starter, or a bad battery. Repeat the check but with the multimeter across the battery (vice across the starter). Does the voltage stay above 11.0 VDC? If yes, then bad cable/connection. If no, bad battery.

if you need any help, let me know. I will step you through the whole process for just about anything.
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  #10  
Old 01-17-2010, 02:03 PM
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It worked. Replaced the Starter relay. Started right up. Thanks. Any idea where I can get a right front speed sensor? Last problem to fix so far.
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  #11  
Old 01-17-2010, 03:17 PM
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Aaron, unfortunately, the front speed sensor will probably be a dealership only part unless you have a shop in town that specializes in foreign auto parts. Your Pep Boys/Advanced/Autozone stores will not carry anything like that.
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Old 01-21-2010, 01:09 PM
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I fixed the other problems it runs. I had a error code about the right front speed sensor. Replaced it. I am still not getting the speedometer to work. All other instruments work. I am confused. Only getting ABS light now and codes P1646 , P1000. Need help again.
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  #13  
Old 01-21-2010, 06:24 PM
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Aaron, if you are not getting the speedo, then you have a problem with the ABS module or the instrument cluster. Do you notice the tranny shifting oddly? That would be a sign that the computer for the tranny is not getting adequate input for vehicle speed and is therefore "guessing" when to shift the tranny. I would also check the fuse for the ABS module to make sure that it hasn't opened on you for some unknown reason.
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Old 01-28-2010, 11:03 AM
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Default Changed Cluster wont start

I changed the instrument cluster now it won't start. It gets all the power lights, milage ect... Help
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  #15  
Old 05-19-2010, 07:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thermo View Post
Aaron, first, I want you to remove the R10 relay (starter relay). Locate Pin 1 on the relay. Now, relate that to pin 1 inside the fuse box. Connect a multimeter between Pin 1 and chassis ground (set multimeter to read 20 VDC). Do you get 12 VDC when you rotate the ignition key to the "START" (III) position? If no, then you have a problem with your ignition switch or the wiring between the ignition switch and the relay. Let me know and I will give you further checks to make if you can't figure it out. If you do get 12 VDC for this check, next move the lead from Pin 1 and put it into Pin 3. Do you have 12 VDC here (doesn't matter the position of the ignition switch for this check)? If no, replace fuse XX and if you still don't have 12 VDC, then you have a wiring problem (again, write me and I will give you all sorts of checks to do).

Finally, using a set of alligator clips (or the aide of a friend), connect up the multimeter to the large post of the starter and chassis ground. Now, using a piece of 14 gauge solid wire, install the piece of wire between Pins 3 and 5 inside the fuse box. Does the multimeter drop but stay above 11.0 VDC? If the voltage stays at 12.6 VDC (above 12.3 VDC), then move the multimeter lead over to the small post and see if you have 12 VDC there? If not, then you have a wiring problem between the relay and the starter. If you got between 11.0 and 12.6 VDC with the multimeter lead on the big post of the starter, then your starter is attempting to start the car, but it can't develop enough torque, new starter is required. Finally, if the voltage dropped below 11.0 VDC, you have a bad battery cable, corroded terminal on the starter, or a bad battery. Repeat the check but with the multimeter across the battery (vice across the starter). Does the voltage stay above 11.0 VDC? If yes, then bad cable/connection. If no, bad battery.

if you need any help, let me know. I will step you through the whole process for just about anything.
Chris, thanks for this post but in the first part of your procedure to Aaron, I have 12v on ignition switch position # II and # III on relay pin 1. I put a new 2.5 motor in this beast and it looks like PATS is initiating but a series of clicks when I try to start. Lights and dash lights flashing. I'm stumped! Is there any master "reset" procedure after an engine swap that I have missed?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Clive.
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  #16  
Old 03-26-2012, 12:01 PM
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Unhappy Franca

Well - the car has finally died on me! I went to start it up this morning to go to an important appointment and it wouldn't go!!! I felt like doing a John Cleese on it! Anyway - have read notes on 'the engine not starting' reviews and will give the car a jump start. I am now thinking that because of the tailgate open error leaving the interior light on, it has probably caused the battery to drain and I think it's the original battery. We shall see. Like some of you other guys out there, my Jag dealer is 75 miles away so I've got to do what I can at home.
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  #17  
Old 09-16-2012, 03:47 PM
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Wow lots of great info here guys ! My wifes car is doing this same thing but like every 7 days . I will be getter a stater ASAP .
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Old 09-20-2012, 02:26 PM
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My cat did the same this week, got the battery replaced straight away, all is well now.
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Old 09-20-2012, 02:26 PM
 
 
 
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2002, 2005, 30, amplifier, awd, battery, car, clicking, clicks, factory, hear, jaguar, problems, start, starter, type, wont, xtype



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