X-Type Wont Start. Minor or Major?
#1
X-Type Wont Start. Minor or Major?
Hi, I Have a 2006 jaguar x type. I have had it for a little over a year and no problems.
Last night I removed the factory subwoofers and installed a line - out converter where the factory subwoofer/speakers were. This was in the trunk area. I have the alpine premium sound system (if that helps).
Today I went to go start my car, and nothing. It would not start. I thought i had to jump it so I tried and still it would not start up. Can somebody give me any ideas or help on what is wrong?
Thanks,
Jim
Last night I removed the factory subwoofers and installed a line - out converter where the factory subwoofer/speakers were. This was in the trunk area. I have the alpine premium sound system (if that helps).
Today I went to go start my car, and nothing. It would not start. I thought i had to jump it so I tried and still it would not start up. Can somebody give me any ideas or help on what is wrong?
Thanks,
Jim
Last edited by Jaggyx; 09-17-2012 at 08:07 PM. Reason: typo
#2
#3
#4
If your battery is old you may need to replace it. I had all similar symptoms, everything inside the car worked fine, light were bright, stereo system sounded great and everything seemed to be normal. This happened when I was doing my hid conversion, left the key in the on position too long. But I bet your amp is always on even when you shut the car off. This would defo kill the battery over night - been there done that. But it would always start with a jump.
Get a new battery, trust me, the car will start.
Get a new battery, trust me, the car will start.
#5
I'm having almost the same issue. With my situation, I didn't remove the battery or fiddle with anything in my car. It got me to work this morning but when I came to leave, it wouldn't start.
Radio, Lights, Windows etc., worked just like jim.logan was experiencing. So I got picked up by my brother and went to autozone and bought a battery and installed it and it STILL won't turn on. It turns over but doesn't fire up. All I hear is clicking noises when I turn the key and if I hold it it just clicks repeatedly.
The only thing I can probably think of, now that I am home, researching my issue and not in the heat of the moment, is that my old battery had some corrosion due to a cracked negative terminal. I poured coke on it at work but I never properly cleaned it off the actual terminals as good as maybe I should have? But it's a brand new battery I went out and bought and the lights and everything turn on so it's making connection.
Or can it be that high resistance connection Thermo once suggested in previous posts? I don't know. I'm just a little upset I had to leave it in the parking lot of my job and now I have to tow it 41 miles to my mechanic which is going to cost me almost $200 alone, because my job is in Butt F*@# Egypt. Not to mention $139.99 battery from Autozone.
I also work tomorrow morning at 8am, lol, I would say things can't get any worse, but we all know they really really can lol.
Any ideas? Should I maybe go clean that terminal a little bit better before getting it towed? or is it the starter relay or??
Thanks in advanced.
Radio, Lights, Windows etc., worked just like jim.logan was experiencing. So I got picked up by my brother and went to autozone and bought a battery and installed it and it STILL won't turn on. It turns over but doesn't fire up. All I hear is clicking noises when I turn the key and if I hold it it just clicks repeatedly.
The only thing I can probably think of, now that I am home, researching my issue and not in the heat of the moment, is that my old battery had some corrosion due to a cracked negative terminal. I poured coke on it at work but I never properly cleaned it off the actual terminals as good as maybe I should have? But it's a brand new battery I went out and bought and the lights and everything turn on so it's making connection.
Or can it be that high resistance connection Thermo once suggested in previous posts? I don't know. I'm just a little upset I had to leave it in the parking lot of my job and now I have to tow it 41 miles to my mechanic which is going to cost me almost $200 alone, because my job is in Butt F*@# Egypt. Not to mention $139.99 battery from Autozone.
I also work tomorrow morning at 8am, lol, I would say things can't get any worse, but we all know they really really can lol.
Any ideas? Should I maybe go clean that terminal a little bit better before getting it towed? or is it the starter relay or??
Thanks in advanced.
#6
#7
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 14,445
Likes: 0
Received 3,924 Likes
on
3,223 Posts
Jim, when you say that the car won't start, are you meaning that the engine will turn over, but will not fire? Or, do you mean that the engine will not turn over with the starter? This makes a big difference in where the troubleshooting takes us. Let me know and I will help you get your kitty purring again.
Trending Topics
#9
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 14,445
Likes: 0
Received 3,924 Likes
on
3,223 Posts
Aaron, first, I want you to remove the R10 relay (starter relay). Locate Pin 1 on the relay. Now, relate that to pin 1 inside the fuse box. Connect a multimeter between Pin 1 and chassis ground (set multimeter to read 20 VDC). Do you get 12 VDC when you rotate the ignition key to the "START" (III) position? If no, then you have a problem with your ignition switch or the wiring between the ignition switch and the relay. Let me know and I will give you further checks to make if you can't figure it out. If you do get 12 VDC for this check, next move the lead from Pin 1 and put it into Pin 3. Do you have 12 VDC here (doesn't matter the position of the ignition switch for this check)? If no, replace fuse XX and if you still don't have 12 VDC, then you have a wiring problem (again, write me and I will give you all sorts of checks to do).
Finally, using a set of alligator clips (or the aide of a friend), connect up the multimeter to the large post of the starter and chassis ground. Now, using a piece of 14 gauge solid wire, install the piece of wire between Pins 3 and 5 inside the fuse box. Does the multimeter drop but stay above 11.0 VDC? If the voltage stays at 12.6 VDC (above 12.3 VDC), then move the multimeter lead over to the small post and see if you have 12 VDC there? If not, then you have a wiring problem between the relay and the starter. If you got between 11.0 and 12.6 VDC with the multimeter lead on the big post of the starter, then your starter is attempting to start the car, but it can't develop enough torque, new starter is required. Finally, if the voltage dropped below 11.0 VDC, you have a bad battery cable, corroded terminal on the starter, or a bad battery. Repeat the check but with the multimeter across the battery (vice across the starter). Does the voltage stay above 11.0 VDC? If yes, then bad cable/connection. If no, bad battery.
if you need any help, let me know. I will step you through the whole process for just about anything.
Finally, using a set of alligator clips (or the aide of a friend), connect up the multimeter to the large post of the starter and chassis ground. Now, using a piece of 14 gauge solid wire, install the piece of wire between Pins 3 and 5 inside the fuse box. Does the multimeter drop but stay above 11.0 VDC? If the voltage stays at 12.6 VDC (above 12.3 VDC), then move the multimeter lead over to the small post and see if you have 12 VDC there? If not, then you have a wiring problem between the relay and the starter. If you got between 11.0 and 12.6 VDC with the multimeter lead on the big post of the starter, then your starter is attempting to start the car, but it can't develop enough torque, new starter is required. Finally, if the voltage dropped below 11.0 VDC, you have a bad battery cable, corroded terminal on the starter, or a bad battery. Repeat the check but with the multimeter across the battery (vice across the starter). Does the voltage stay above 11.0 VDC? If yes, then bad cable/connection. If no, bad battery.
if you need any help, let me know. I will step you through the whole process for just about anything.
The following users liked this post:
lelledge (02-29-2016)
#11
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 14,445
Likes: 0
Received 3,924 Likes
on
3,223 Posts
#12
#13
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 14,445
Likes: 0
Received 3,924 Likes
on
3,223 Posts
Aaron, if you are not getting the speedo, then you have a problem with the ABS module or the instrument cluster. Do you notice the tranny shifting oddly? That would be a sign that the computer for the tranny is not getting adequate input for vehicle speed and is therefore "guessing" when to shift the tranny. I would also check the fuse for the ABS module to make sure that it hasn't opened on you for some unknown reason.
#15
Aaron, first, I want you to remove the R10 relay (starter relay). Locate Pin 1 on the relay. Now, relate that to pin 1 inside the fuse box. Connect a multimeter between Pin 1 and chassis ground (set multimeter to read 20 VDC). Do you get 12 VDC when you rotate the ignition key to the "START" (III) position? If no, then you have a problem with your ignition switch or the wiring between the ignition switch and the relay. Let me know and I will give you further checks to make if you can't figure it out. If you do get 12 VDC for this check, next move the lead from Pin 1 and put it into Pin 3. Do you have 12 VDC here (doesn't matter the position of the ignition switch for this check)? If no, replace fuse XX and if you still don't have 12 VDC, then you have a wiring problem (again, write me and I will give you all sorts of checks to do).
Finally, using a set of alligator clips (or the aide of a friend), connect up the multimeter to the large post of the starter and chassis ground. Now, using a piece of 14 gauge solid wire, install the piece of wire between Pins 3 and 5 inside the fuse box. Does the multimeter drop but stay above 11.0 VDC? If the voltage stays at 12.6 VDC (above 12.3 VDC), then move the multimeter lead over to the small post and see if you have 12 VDC there? If not, then you have a wiring problem between the relay and the starter. If you got between 11.0 and 12.6 VDC with the multimeter lead on the big post of the starter, then your starter is attempting to start the car, but it can't develop enough torque, new starter is required. Finally, if the voltage dropped below 11.0 VDC, you have a bad battery cable, corroded terminal on the starter, or a bad battery. Repeat the check but with the multimeter across the battery (vice across the starter). Does the voltage stay above 11.0 VDC? If yes, then bad cable/connection. If no, bad battery.
if you need any help, let me know. I will step you through the whole process for just about anything.
Finally, using a set of alligator clips (or the aide of a friend), connect up the multimeter to the large post of the starter and chassis ground. Now, using a piece of 14 gauge solid wire, install the piece of wire between Pins 3 and 5 inside the fuse box. Does the multimeter drop but stay above 11.0 VDC? If the voltage stays at 12.6 VDC (above 12.3 VDC), then move the multimeter lead over to the small post and see if you have 12 VDC there? If not, then you have a wiring problem between the relay and the starter. If you got between 11.0 and 12.6 VDC with the multimeter lead on the big post of the starter, then your starter is attempting to start the car, but it can't develop enough torque, new starter is required. Finally, if the voltage dropped below 11.0 VDC, you have a bad battery cable, corroded terminal on the starter, or a bad battery. Repeat the check but with the multimeter across the battery (vice across the starter). Does the voltage stay above 11.0 VDC? If yes, then bad cable/connection. If no, bad battery.
if you need any help, let me know. I will step you through the whole process for just about anything.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Clive.
#16
Franca
Well - the car has finally died on me! I went to start it up this morning to go to an important appointment and it wouldn't go!!! I felt like doing a John Cleese on it! Anyway - have read notes on 'the engine not starting' reviews and will give the car a jump start. I am now thinking that because of the tailgate open error leaving the interior light on, it has probably caused the battery to drain and I think it's the original battery. We shall see. Like some of you other guys out there, my Jag dealer is 75 miles away so I've got to do what I can at home.
#19
I've seen a lot of posts regarding wont start after battery replaced, and not seen many answers, I had the same problem myself, my 2.5 AWD wont start so as most of you did I started with changing the battery, it started several times and then again a few days later back to none starter, and checking all the obvious.
I don't know if any of you tried giving your fuel pump a tap!! for me this worked but i'd suggest you keep it running and get it straight to a garage for a fuel pump replacement. hope this helps some of you
I don't know if any of you tried giving your fuel pump a tap!! for me this worked but i'd suggest you keep it running and get it straight to a garage for a fuel pump replacement. hope this helps some of you
#20
How did you access the fuel pump to give it a tap? I thought you had to take the tank out to get at it?