04 X-TYPE oil pan gasket FAQ
#1
04 X-TYPE oil pan gasket FAQ
ok so i posted a few weeks ago about this topic. got a few helpful tips and a few snotty responses. in the end, heres what i can give back to anyone who read my original thread about changing the gasket cause they wanna save money and do it themselves. it is possible but read closely, and determine for your self what way you wanna go.
JAGUAR X-TYPE OIL PAN GASKET REPLACEMENT
While car is parked open hood and remove the following:
BATTERY AND BOX
open the battery box and remove the cover
remove battery holder bracket and nuts
hold the bolts for the bracket and pop away from battery box (pull straight away from battery box)
then slide them down, and out away from battery box
remove terminal wires, take out battery
unclip battery box sensor located on the back side of box in middle
remove the box by lifting up (be cautious of breather hose from stock battery. it is fed through the box underneath in two spots and goes up the outside the box nearest the water pump belt. this has to come out before the box. to do this slide breather hose down from the side first with a thin Philips head screwdriver. then feed it through the two bottom holes. box comes right out)
AIR FILTER AND BOX
remove air filter
unclip hose clamp from manifold to air intake tube (the bendy rubber part)
unclip maf sensor on side of air intake tube
remove top of air box, intake tube and maf as one unit
remove the two screws inside of air box
remove the two screws outside of air box that screw into the valve covers
remove the screw holding the charcoal filter to air box
holding the sides of r box lift straight up gently, you will feel a pop. this is a holder on the bottom of the air box that presses into a grommet. just pops in and out, to center the air box and better hold it
once popped out of grommet it slides straight up and off of air inlet tubes (the ones that stick out in front of radiator) this is a little tricky but its simple
TIRES
loosen lug nuts then jack up car
remove tires
RADIATOR SUPPORT BRACKET
remove access cover from both sides of inner wheel wells
Remove radiator splash shield (big black piece across whole front end)
drain coolant (drain plug on lower hose connector)
remove lower hose passenger side (remove clip and wiggle plastic piece away from holder)
remove upper hose to T style connector (top of thermostat housing) right side
remove hose from other side of T connector (remove the bolt from hose to wire harness bracket. remove clip and wiggle plastic away from holder)
remove aluminum hose to thermostat housing (starts next to oil filter, goes up to the T connecter and connects below thermostat housing)
remove the four bolts on each side of radiator support bracket (they are up above the bumper but three can be removed with socket and 8” extension, and get the fourth with a ratchet and deep socket with no extension on both sides)
remove black metal plate above air inlet tube (two screw connect to the air inlet tube)
remove inlet tube now that radiator can be slightly lowered without support bracket
COOLING FAN ASSEMBLY
underneath air box is a wiring harness bracket(it has that rubber grommet for the air box attached to it). its held on by two small nuts, remove them
remove the wiring harness from the plastic clips that are underneath the air intake tube and are now exposed
DON’T remove the clips from the bracket
reposition the whole bracket with wires attached on top of the valve cover(be careful, its not gonna go far, hook it on the screw that’s sticking up on the valve cover
disconnect the two wiring clips for the cooling fan located on drivers side of radiator in the module for fan
the cooling fan is held on by four holders on the radiator. to remove fan, lift up and slide out of all four connectors, move assembly towards motor and gently slide down and out of car through the underneath.
TAKE CAUTION!!!!!!! it is a very tight squeeze!! failure to use caution will ruin your radiator!!!
to prevent damage: slide a thin piece of cardboard between radiator and cooling fan assembly when removing the assembly, this will keep it from flattening you radiator ribs or punching a hole through it
OIL
drain oil, replace drain plug
remove oil filter
EXHAUST
directly after the exhaust manifolds on each side is a catalytic converter, coming off of that is a down tube, where the left side(front of car) meets the right side down tube. this 2-1 pipe connects to a flexible pipe that’s welded to the front muffler.
left side
start by removing the 2 nuts from where left down tube meets the right down tube
then remove the 2 bolts from the left catalytic converter to the bracket that is attached to the back of the oil pan(leave the bracket connected to the catalytic converter alone, the screw is probably rusted and might strip out if you try to remove)
remove the three bolts from the left catalyst heat shield. move heat shield forward s best as possible.
there are two 02 sensors, one on top sticking through the heat shield, and one on the lower side near the bracket. take the one out near the bracket, and unclip the one on top from underneath the battery box
remove the three bolts that hold catalyst to exhaust manifold(careful they strip out easy. it is best to use a socket with a star pattern the reverse of a torx bit on the top of the bolts and NOT remove the nuts. the bolts are secured into the catalyst and slide through the manifold then get the nuts put on)
remove left hand catalyst and down tube as one unit, as well as left heat shield)
right side
remove two nuts holding flexible muffler pipe to the right side down tube(Careful, rusted exhaust bolts like to snap off rather than unscrew)
looking at right side down tube from through wheel well, remove the bolt holding the heat shield it will be directly in front of right down tube, holding the heat shield to the cars sub-frame. this alows you to kinda bend it away
while its bent remove the nut from the right down tube clamp(it holds down tube to the catalyst) the bolt is directly behind the exhaust tube, kinda tricky to get. i had to cut the bolt down to get a short socket on it, and then it snapped anyway, so i fabricated a stainless one for reinstallation w/new bolt and nut
remove right hand down tube
BRACKETS / OTHER
looking at the engine oil pan you will see two brackets that will need to come off
start with the one holding the transfer case air scoop. it has to small bolts underneath the main shaft of the transfer case, remove them. then there is one bolt holding it to the oil pan, remove this.
remove bracket
the other bracket was attached to the left hand catalyst to get this one off you need to remove the oil pan to transmission retaining bolts. there is one on each side, remove them.
then you will see that one of the bolts holding transmission together holds bracket in place. CRACK this bolt loose about a 1/4 turn. DO NOT remove it. loosen enough to pivot bracket up and retighten with fingers. this will hold bracket out of the way.
remove the little black cover in the middle of the oil pan (drivers side) to access two of the bolts
remove the accessory drive belt. breaker bar works best. go in through the wheel well and pull down
if you don’t have a breaker bar, use a thin 3/8” drive ratchet set in reverse and slide a 12” length of metal pipe over it
remove two bottom bolts of A/C pump that connect to oil pan
loosen, DO NOT REMOVE the two upper bolts for the ac pump (these are bolted to a bracket for the generator and almost impossible to get back in)
slide A/C pump forward about an inch
if you take a close look at what’s in front of you now, you have clear access to 14 of the 15 bolts for the oil pan. you now have two choices, follow the rules of the hand books and manuals and proceed to drop the following: axles, left and right wheel knuckles, half shafts, steering gear bar, drive shaft, more of the exhaust, intake manifold, right hand catalyst, suspension, SUB-FRAME and other parts, just so you can take out the transfer case to get the last bolt of the oil pan out. OR....you can do what i did using tips from others to get the bolt out, and drill a hole in the casting of the transfer case mount, just enough to get a socket in there, and get the bolt out with out taking above mentioned items off.
ATTENTION: DOING THE FOLLOWING WILL VOID ANY SORT OF WARRANTY YOU HAVE THROUGH JAGUAR OR THROUGH OTHER DEALERSHIP
JAGUAR DOES NOT RECOMMEND THIS, AND NEVER WILL
the reason i did this is this, i have no warranty on my car, and i have a loan on it, so oil leaking from a gasket is not cool. i don’t feel like having my motor seize, and have to make payments on a car i cant drive. i know this was risky but i figured i have to give it a shot, worst case i would mess up my transfer case. rather than engine. if you have any sort of problem with doing this please i beg of you do not read on. i do not condone this on anyone but if it is your last (and pretty much only) resort, as it was mine, here is what i did i hope it might help some people.
OIL PAN
you will need: 3/4” hole saw with an adapter that also holds a 3/8” drill bit(for added accuracy with the pilot hoe drill bit)
a good low torque power drill
safety goggles
bright light
the first thing i did was flipped my new gasket upside down and traced the corner closest to the driver on to card board(the bolt you cant reach, and the ones nearest it). i then punched out holes where the bolts were. using this as a guide i held it to the bottom of my oil pan and centered the two bolts i could see, and marked on the transfer case mount where the bolt is-directly above in relevance that you cant see.
remove the transfer case bolt from the mount you are about drill through, it will be set back in later.
wear safety goggles when drilling.
drill slowly, keeping great tension on the drill.
ALUMINUM CRACKS EASILY, go slow. focus on getting it drilled straight and in line with bolt.
keep in mind: if you don’t drill straight on, you may not be able to get the bolt back in.
look from all angles before drilling. you only get one chance at this, take your time and do it right. if you get it good, you will still have material on the front side of mount, and not puncture through transfer case side wall and spill its oil out; ruining it.
once this is done vacuum up metal shavings, they fly everywhere(hence the safety goggles)
if you did it right, congratulations, you now have access to all 15 oil pan bolts
remove the bolts from oil pan
right next to where you drilled you will see a slot in the casting on the oil pan that goes around the mount you just drilled through. use a screwdriver under there and pry oil pan loose.
DO NOT STICK ANYTHING BETWEEN OIL PAN AND BLOCK MATING SURFACES AND PRY.
THIS WILL DAMAGE MATING SURFACES!!!!
carefully lower the oil pan, which is a little tricky, because so many other things were skipped, but very possible
the rest is simple, clean off any old gasket material, and remove old metal gasket
use a brand new oil pan gasket, the metal kind with the rubber inlay for best results
i used ultra gray gasket sealer for transmissions, it is sensor safe, higher oil resistance and is designed for high torque applications, as the x-type is 10.5-1 compression ratio.
getting the pan back on is a little tricky but before you glue it all up, give it a few dry test runs and see how to rotate pan to get it to seat right, makes it a little easier.
once all back together, new gasket and sealer, all bolts are in and torque them down (25 NM by the way) install the transfer case bolt you took out
install everything in reverse of removal; and you have fresh oil pan gasket at your hose for a cheap price.
my cost:
parts:
oil and filter $30 castrol syntec 5w-30 mobile1 filter
oil pan gasket $ 35 shipped partsgeek.com
gasket sealer $8 ultra gray
radiator fluid $15 dex-cool
bolts/nuts $20 (mostly exhaust bolts that broke, and one oil pan bolt)
drill bits $35
tools $100 (i had to stock up on a bunch of stuff anyway)
total: $242 not bad, i spent more than this but i didn’t list personal costs like 20 bucks to fill the propane tank for my heater, 5 bucks for my new shop light etc...
any way you can reuse fluid if you want, its your choice, i went with new.
with out buying any tools that’s that more saved money
hope this helps someone cause it saved me hundreds of dollars on labor charges. good luck to all and please remember, i am here for help and support from other x owners, and hope to help someone else out. i dont wish to offend any one with this, so if it angers you i apologize in advance, but to my testament i told you not to read on....
STEVIS05
JAGUAR X-TYPE OIL PAN GASKET REPLACEMENT
While car is parked open hood and remove the following:
BATTERY AND BOX
open the battery box and remove the cover
remove battery holder bracket and nuts
hold the bolts for the bracket and pop away from battery box (pull straight away from battery box)
then slide them down, and out away from battery box
remove terminal wires, take out battery
unclip battery box sensor located on the back side of box in middle
remove the box by lifting up (be cautious of breather hose from stock battery. it is fed through the box underneath in two spots and goes up the outside the box nearest the water pump belt. this has to come out before the box. to do this slide breather hose down from the side first with a thin Philips head screwdriver. then feed it through the two bottom holes. box comes right out)
AIR FILTER AND BOX
remove air filter
unclip hose clamp from manifold to air intake tube (the bendy rubber part)
unclip maf sensor on side of air intake tube
remove top of air box, intake tube and maf as one unit
remove the two screws inside of air box
remove the two screws outside of air box that screw into the valve covers
remove the screw holding the charcoal filter to air box
holding the sides of r box lift straight up gently, you will feel a pop. this is a holder on the bottom of the air box that presses into a grommet. just pops in and out, to center the air box and better hold it
once popped out of grommet it slides straight up and off of air inlet tubes (the ones that stick out in front of radiator) this is a little tricky but its simple
TIRES
loosen lug nuts then jack up car
remove tires
RADIATOR SUPPORT BRACKET
remove access cover from both sides of inner wheel wells
Remove radiator splash shield (big black piece across whole front end)
drain coolant (drain plug on lower hose connector)
remove lower hose passenger side (remove clip and wiggle plastic piece away from holder)
remove upper hose to T style connector (top of thermostat housing) right side
remove hose from other side of T connector (remove the bolt from hose to wire harness bracket. remove clip and wiggle plastic away from holder)
remove aluminum hose to thermostat housing (starts next to oil filter, goes up to the T connecter and connects below thermostat housing)
remove the four bolts on each side of radiator support bracket (they are up above the bumper but three can be removed with socket and 8” extension, and get the fourth with a ratchet and deep socket with no extension on both sides)
remove black metal plate above air inlet tube (two screw connect to the air inlet tube)
remove inlet tube now that radiator can be slightly lowered without support bracket
COOLING FAN ASSEMBLY
underneath air box is a wiring harness bracket(it has that rubber grommet for the air box attached to it). its held on by two small nuts, remove them
remove the wiring harness from the plastic clips that are underneath the air intake tube and are now exposed
DON’T remove the clips from the bracket
reposition the whole bracket with wires attached on top of the valve cover(be careful, its not gonna go far, hook it on the screw that’s sticking up on the valve cover
disconnect the two wiring clips for the cooling fan located on drivers side of radiator in the module for fan
the cooling fan is held on by four holders on the radiator. to remove fan, lift up and slide out of all four connectors, move assembly towards motor and gently slide down and out of car through the underneath.
TAKE CAUTION!!!!!!! it is a very tight squeeze!! failure to use caution will ruin your radiator!!!
to prevent damage: slide a thin piece of cardboard between radiator and cooling fan assembly when removing the assembly, this will keep it from flattening you radiator ribs or punching a hole through it
OIL
drain oil, replace drain plug
remove oil filter
EXHAUST
directly after the exhaust manifolds on each side is a catalytic converter, coming off of that is a down tube, where the left side(front of car) meets the right side down tube. this 2-1 pipe connects to a flexible pipe that’s welded to the front muffler.
left side
start by removing the 2 nuts from where left down tube meets the right down tube
then remove the 2 bolts from the left catalytic converter to the bracket that is attached to the back of the oil pan(leave the bracket connected to the catalytic converter alone, the screw is probably rusted and might strip out if you try to remove)
remove the three bolts from the left catalyst heat shield. move heat shield forward s best as possible.
there are two 02 sensors, one on top sticking through the heat shield, and one on the lower side near the bracket. take the one out near the bracket, and unclip the one on top from underneath the battery box
remove the three bolts that hold catalyst to exhaust manifold(careful they strip out easy. it is best to use a socket with a star pattern the reverse of a torx bit on the top of the bolts and NOT remove the nuts. the bolts are secured into the catalyst and slide through the manifold then get the nuts put on)
remove left hand catalyst and down tube as one unit, as well as left heat shield)
right side
remove two nuts holding flexible muffler pipe to the right side down tube(Careful, rusted exhaust bolts like to snap off rather than unscrew)
looking at right side down tube from through wheel well, remove the bolt holding the heat shield it will be directly in front of right down tube, holding the heat shield to the cars sub-frame. this alows you to kinda bend it away
while its bent remove the nut from the right down tube clamp(it holds down tube to the catalyst) the bolt is directly behind the exhaust tube, kinda tricky to get. i had to cut the bolt down to get a short socket on it, and then it snapped anyway, so i fabricated a stainless one for reinstallation w/new bolt and nut
remove right hand down tube
BRACKETS / OTHER
looking at the engine oil pan you will see two brackets that will need to come off
start with the one holding the transfer case air scoop. it has to small bolts underneath the main shaft of the transfer case, remove them. then there is one bolt holding it to the oil pan, remove this.
remove bracket
the other bracket was attached to the left hand catalyst to get this one off you need to remove the oil pan to transmission retaining bolts. there is one on each side, remove them.
then you will see that one of the bolts holding transmission together holds bracket in place. CRACK this bolt loose about a 1/4 turn. DO NOT remove it. loosen enough to pivot bracket up and retighten with fingers. this will hold bracket out of the way.
remove the little black cover in the middle of the oil pan (drivers side) to access two of the bolts
remove the accessory drive belt. breaker bar works best. go in through the wheel well and pull down
if you don’t have a breaker bar, use a thin 3/8” drive ratchet set in reverse and slide a 12” length of metal pipe over it
remove two bottom bolts of A/C pump that connect to oil pan
loosen, DO NOT REMOVE the two upper bolts for the ac pump (these are bolted to a bracket for the generator and almost impossible to get back in)
slide A/C pump forward about an inch
if you take a close look at what’s in front of you now, you have clear access to 14 of the 15 bolts for the oil pan. you now have two choices, follow the rules of the hand books and manuals and proceed to drop the following: axles, left and right wheel knuckles, half shafts, steering gear bar, drive shaft, more of the exhaust, intake manifold, right hand catalyst, suspension, SUB-FRAME and other parts, just so you can take out the transfer case to get the last bolt of the oil pan out. OR....you can do what i did using tips from others to get the bolt out, and drill a hole in the casting of the transfer case mount, just enough to get a socket in there, and get the bolt out with out taking above mentioned items off.
ATTENTION: DOING THE FOLLOWING WILL VOID ANY SORT OF WARRANTY YOU HAVE THROUGH JAGUAR OR THROUGH OTHER DEALERSHIP
JAGUAR DOES NOT RECOMMEND THIS, AND NEVER WILL
the reason i did this is this, i have no warranty on my car, and i have a loan on it, so oil leaking from a gasket is not cool. i don’t feel like having my motor seize, and have to make payments on a car i cant drive. i know this was risky but i figured i have to give it a shot, worst case i would mess up my transfer case. rather than engine. if you have any sort of problem with doing this please i beg of you do not read on. i do not condone this on anyone but if it is your last (and pretty much only) resort, as it was mine, here is what i did i hope it might help some people.
OIL PAN
you will need: 3/4” hole saw with an adapter that also holds a 3/8” drill bit(for added accuracy with the pilot hoe drill bit)
a good low torque power drill
safety goggles
bright light
the first thing i did was flipped my new gasket upside down and traced the corner closest to the driver on to card board(the bolt you cant reach, and the ones nearest it). i then punched out holes where the bolts were. using this as a guide i held it to the bottom of my oil pan and centered the two bolts i could see, and marked on the transfer case mount where the bolt is-directly above in relevance that you cant see.
remove the transfer case bolt from the mount you are about drill through, it will be set back in later.
wear safety goggles when drilling.
drill slowly, keeping great tension on the drill.
ALUMINUM CRACKS EASILY, go slow. focus on getting it drilled straight and in line with bolt.
keep in mind: if you don’t drill straight on, you may not be able to get the bolt back in.
look from all angles before drilling. you only get one chance at this, take your time and do it right. if you get it good, you will still have material on the front side of mount, and not puncture through transfer case side wall and spill its oil out; ruining it.
once this is done vacuum up metal shavings, they fly everywhere(hence the safety goggles)
if you did it right, congratulations, you now have access to all 15 oil pan bolts
remove the bolts from oil pan
right next to where you drilled you will see a slot in the casting on the oil pan that goes around the mount you just drilled through. use a screwdriver under there and pry oil pan loose.
DO NOT STICK ANYTHING BETWEEN OIL PAN AND BLOCK MATING SURFACES AND PRY.
THIS WILL DAMAGE MATING SURFACES!!!!
carefully lower the oil pan, which is a little tricky, because so many other things were skipped, but very possible
the rest is simple, clean off any old gasket material, and remove old metal gasket
use a brand new oil pan gasket, the metal kind with the rubber inlay for best results
i used ultra gray gasket sealer for transmissions, it is sensor safe, higher oil resistance and is designed for high torque applications, as the x-type is 10.5-1 compression ratio.
getting the pan back on is a little tricky but before you glue it all up, give it a few dry test runs and see how to rotate pan to get it to seat right, makes it a little easier.
once all back together, new gasket and sealer, all bolts are in and torque them down (25 NM by the way) install the transfer case bolt you took out
install everything in reverse of removal; and you have fresh oil pan gasket at your hose for a cheap price.
my cost:
parts:
oil and filter $30 castrol syntec 5w-30 mobile1 filter
oil pan gasket $ 35 shipped partsgeek.com
gasket sealer $8 ultra gray
radiator fluid $15 dex-cool
bolts/nuts $20 (mostly exhaust bolts that broke, and one oil pan bolt)
drill bits $35
tools $100 (i had to stock up on a bunch of stuff anyway)
total: $242 not bad, i spent more than this but i didn’t list personal costs like 20 bucks to fill the propane tank for my heater, 5 bucks for my new shop light etc...
any way you can reuse fluid if you want, its your choice, i went with new.
with out buying any tools that’s that more saved money
hope this helps someone cause it saved me hundreds of dollars on labor charges. good luck to all and please remember, i am here for help and support from other x owners, and hope to help someone else out. i dont wish to offend any one with this, so if it angers you i apologize in advance, but to my testament i told you not to read on....
STEVIS05
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Damon /Houston, Texas
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Not bad Stevo, but you the only thing you have to remove under the hood it the oil cap to refill when youre done, and on the bottom you only have to remove the black bracket on the back of the pan and the exhaust pipe from the front cat if youre doing the cut n paste method. Oh and no matter which wat you do it if the grind off the little rectangular nub on the back coner of the pan by that unobtanium bolt the pan goes back in much easier too
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"Brutal" Master Mechanic is right. 'Just replaced the oil pan gasket on my 2003 X-Type, and did not need to remove anything extra under the hood nor the exhaust maninfolds, nor the catalytic converters. Otherwise, 'followed both Steve's advice and Master Mechanic's advice.
For drilling the hole in the aluminum bracket, you may wish to use a 7/8" whole saw drill instead of 3/4”. The extra diameter will be a little more forgiving if you do not measure exactly in alignment with the bolt, nor drill perfectly "vertical". Just make sure that you have about 3/16”-1/4" thickness of material remaining on the outer wall after you are finished drilling. Try hard to remain vertical while drilling so that the socket will not rub and hang up on the inside wall of the hole while extracting the hidden bolt. If your socket ends up rubbing hard on the inside wall, stop. Do not force it out with more power. You may risk cracking the aluminum. Take some extra time to use a 3/8" or 1/2" twisted drill and slowly grind away the inside wall and remove the surface causing the friction against the socket as you are extracting.
The only other items that need to be removed are the two brackets and the "elbow" portion of the exhaust pipe. Removing the exhaust elbow looks like a very daunting task at first. Start by removing the flange nuts on trailing end and remove the clamp nut and the rounded spacer on the front end next to the catalytic converter. To minimize the seizing effect of built up rust on the bolts and the unions where the exhaust sections connected, squirt some Liquid Wrench or WD-40. Tap gently to create a little bit of vibration and help the lubricant spread within.
To help with the removal of the exhaust elbow section, I used a short 1"x2" piece of wood and a rubber mallet. The rubber mallet was used to tap the wood stick against the inner corneer of the elbow. This was done repeatedly until the front portion of the pipe (near the catalytic converter) moved slowly out of the joint. Once it's out about a 1/2"-3/4" or so, you will begin seeing the back compression rings separating (this is end that is nearest to the flex section) and will see some daylight between the compression rings. At this time, you may use a flat screwdriver as a wedge to pry away the compression union, and bring the elbow’s compression end down and clear away from the back-end exhaust pipe. Once the elbow section’s compression ring is dropped clear from the other exhaust pipe, it will allow you to move it freely and slowly wiggle it out from the catalytic converter. Be sure to add a little more lubricant on the front end as you twist and wiggle the elbow so as to help keep it lubricated and loose from the rust build-up, thus allowing it easily slip out. Once the elbow is removed, you are ready to begin removing the oil pan.
Before you begin removing the oil pan, and probably at the time you jack up the car, make sure that the front passenger side tire is removed, and the plastic wheel well shield is also removed. Removing this plastic shield will give you easy access to the harder-to-reach bracket nuts that are located above the exhaust pipe level. It is also necessary to allow you to remove the oil pan nuts that are on that side of the car and that are located directly above the black chassis frame.
The suggestion to remove the corner tip of the oil pan is a great suggestion. I used a hacksaw to cut it off and then used a file to smoothen it out. Additionally, after the oil pan is removed, you may wish to grind off (file away) a few thousands of an inch from the oil pan where it came into contact with the catalytic converter as you were prying the pan off past the catalytic converter. This extra little bit of filing will help the pan slip in a little easier past these points of friction when you get ready to re-install it.
There is another piece of useless aluminum protrusion that also should be cut off or ground away in order to make the removal and re-installation substantially easier. It is the circular round stud that sticks out of the front bottom corner of the pan that is directly above the black chassis frame. While trying to remove the pan, you will find that this round stud prevents the pan from slipping up, above the chassis frame. After fighting with it for a while, and not wanting to use too much force to pry the pan past those obstruction points, I used a hacksaw and simply sawed off the round stud. It was a little time-consuming, but relatively easy approaching the cutting through the wheel well. To prevent further frustration in the middle of the cutting job and to eliminate the chance for your hack saw blade to break while cutting, use a better quality "bi-metal" hack saw blade instead of the cheaper carbon steel. One consolation is that the aluminum is fairly soft, so the cutting is process is worthwhile.
Now you are ready to remove all the oil pan bolts and slowly wiggle out the oil pan. Take the extra time to follow the suggestions of nipping the suggested corner and grinding away a little material to help with the remounting process.
Follow the earlier suggestion by Steve of applying a good quality silicone sealer around the perimeter of the gasket. My method was to apply the first bead of sealer directly on the oil pan. Then I mounted the gasket on the oil pan. Then, I applied another bead of sealer on top of the gasket to form the seal with the engine block. To help you keep the gasket firmly in place and preventing if from moving around while trying to remount the oil pan, I used four nylon tie wraps that I ran through four matching holes on the pan and the gasket. The tie wraps kept the gasket tightly firm against the oil pan and allowing the sealing material cure a little and have the effect of keeping the gasket glued firmly to the pan. While reinstalling the pan, it is unavoidable to hit the top of the pan against other objects and run the chance of knocking off the gasket from the top edge of the pan. The nylon tie wraps kept the gasket firmly in place and prevented it from getting knocked off. Once the pan was well positioned and in general alignment with the engine where only a straight, unobstructed vertical action was needed to screw it in, then I snipped off the nylon tie wraps with a small wire cutter. After the nylon tie wraps were removed, it was easy to push the pan vertically and align it with the engine's hole pattern. Plan ahead when using the nylon tie wraps and be sure place them in the holes that will be easy to get to with your hand and wire cutter to enable you to nip them off.
For drilling the hole in the aluminum bracket, you may wish to use a 7/8" whole saw drill instead of 3/4”. The extra diameter will be a little more forgiving if you do not measure exactly in alignment with the bolt, nor drill perfectly "vertical". Just make sure that you have about 3/16”-1/4" thickness of material remaining on the outer wall after you are finished drilling. Try hard to remain vertical while drilling so that the socket will not rub and hang up on the inside wall of the hole while extracting the hidden bolt. If your socket ends up rubbing hard on the inside wall, stop. Do not force it out with more power. You may risk cracking the aluminum. Take some extra time to use a 3/8" or 1/2" twisted drill and slowly grind away the inside wall and remove the surface causing the friction against the socket as you are extracting.
The only other items that need to be removed are the two brackets and the "elbow" portion of the exhaust pipe. Removing the exhaust elbow looks like a very daunting task at first. Start by removing the flange nuts on trailing end and remove the clamp nut and the rounded spacer on the front end next to the catalytic converter. To minimize the seizing effect of built up rust on the bolts and the unions where the exhaust sections connected, squirt some Liquid Wrench or WD-40. Tap gently to create a little bit of vibration and help the lubricant spread within.
To help with the removal of the exhaust elbow section, I used a short 1"x2" piece of wood and a rubber mallet. The rubber mallet was used to tap the wood stick against the inner corneer of the elbow. This was done repeatedly until the front portion of the pipe (near the catalytic converter) moved slowly out of the joint. Once it's out about a 1/2"-3/4" or so, you will begin seeing the back compression rings separating (this is end that is nearest to the flex section) and will see some daylight between the compression rings. At this time, you may use a flat screwdriver as a wedge to pry away the compression union, and bring the elbow’s compression end down and clear away from the back-end exhaust pipe. Once the elbow section’s compression ring is dropped clear from the other exhaust pipe, it will allow you to move it freely and slowly wiggle it out from the catalytic converter. Be sure to add a little more lubricant on the front end as you twist and wiggle the elbow so as to help keep it lubricated and loose from the rust build-up, thus allowing it easily slip out. Once the elbow is removed, you are ready to begin removing the oil pan.
Before you begin removing the oil pan, and probably at the time you jack up the car, make sure that the front passenger side tire is removed, and the plastic wheel well shield is also removed. Removing this plastic shield will give you easy access to the harder-to-reach bracket nuts that are located above the exhaust pipe level. It is also necessary to allow you to remove the oil pan nuts that are on that side of the car and that are located directly above the black chassis frame.
The suggestion to remove the corner tip of the oil pan is a great suggestion. I used a hacksaw to cut it off and then used a file to smoothen it out. Additionally, after the oil pan is removed, you may wish to grind off (file away) a few thousands of an inch from the oil pan where it came into contact with the catalytic converter as you were prying the pan off past the catalytic converter. This extra little bit of filing will help the pan slip in a little easier past these points of friction when you get ready to re-install it.
There is another piece of useless aluminum protrusion that also should be cut off or ground away in order to make the removal and re-installation substantially easier. It is the circular round stud that sticks out of the front bottom corner of the pan that is directly above the black chassis frame. While trying to remove the pan, you will find that this round stud prevents the pan from slipping up, above the chassis frame. After fighting with it for a while, and not wanting to use too much force to pry the pan past those obstruction points, I used a hacksaw and simply sawed off the round stud. It was a little time-consuming, but relatively easy approaching the cutting through the wheel well. To prevent further frustration in the middle of the cutting job and to eliminate the chance for your hack saw blade to break while cutting, use a better quality "bi-metal" hack saw blade instead of the cheaper carbon steel. One consolation is that the aluminum is fairly soft, so the cutting is process is worthwhile.
Now you are ready to remove all the oil pan bolts and slowly wiggle out the oil pan. Take the extra time to follow the suggestions of nipping the suggested corner and grinding away a little material to help with the remounting process.
Follow the earlier suggestion by Steve of applying a good quality silicone sealer around the perimeter of the gasket. My method was to apply the first bead of sealer directly on the oil pan. Then I mounted the gasket on the oil pan. Then, I applied another bead of sealer on top of the gasket to form the seal with the engine block. To help you keep the gasket firmly in place and preventing if from moving around while trying to remount the oil pan, I used four nylon tie wraps that I ran through four matching holes on the pan and the gasket. The tie wraps kept the gasket tightly firm against the oil pan and allowing the sealing material cure a little and have the effect of keeping the gasket glued firmly to the pan. While reinstalling the pan, it is unavoidable to hit the top of the pan against other objects and run the chance of knocking off the gasket from the top edge of the pan. The nylon tie wraps kept the gasket firmly in place and prevented it from getting knocked off. Once the pan was well positioned and in general alignment with the engine where only a straight, unobstructed vertical action was needed to screw it in, then I snipped off the nylon tie wraps with a small wire cutter. After the nylon tie wraps were removed, it was easy to push the pan vertically and align it with the engine's hole pattern. Plan ahead when using the nylon tie wraps and be sure place them in the holes that will be easy to get to with your hand and wire cutter to enable you to nip them off.
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Thang Nguyen (05-21-2016)
#7
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Thang Nguyen (05-08-2016)
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#8
#9
reducing photo size
Here's a free program you can use to resize photos:
http://www.irfanview.com/
Used by me and many friends without incident, ymmv
http://www.irfanview.com/
Used by me and many friends without incident, ymmv
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mda419 (01-18-2015)
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Bubba Ragoo (11-03-2014)
#11
No need to drill transfer case because of that oil pan bolt. I saw handmade "special tool" at local Jag service. You have to cut the ring "head" part of an M13 key and create a strong, curved neck. It will looks like a small mine finder. You can play out that bolt with this tool and with some luck. (I'm not english, but I hope you understand how this tool looks like, and it will help you)
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#12
#13
Looks like this schematics:
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/113332...16116299832370
because or new neck curve, you cannot apply too many torque on nut, but Jag mechanics said it works in lot case. I saw only the tool (at Jaguar), I haven't use yet. I have to repair my transfer case nowdays, so I will have space to unscrew that nut .
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/113332...16116299832370
because or new neck curve, you cannot apply too many torque on nut, but Jag mechanics said it works in lot case. I saw only the tool (at Jaguar), I haven't use yet. I have to repair my transfer case nowdays, so I will have space to unscrew that nut .
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Bubba Ragoo (11-03-2014)
#14
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There are several ways to take out that bolt without drilling the t case. A modified craftsman distributor wrench tool from sears. Or a long shank carbide bit in a die grinder to grind off the bolt head. You cut it off, take out the pan and unscrew the remaining piece and install a new smaller head bolt, and shorter
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Bubba Ragoo (11-03-2014)
#15
#16
I afraid of you don't have enought space to access all the transfer case bolts to rotate. You have to remove brackets around right half shaft first. So at the end it is close to (the time is same) than to remove completly the transfer case. If you can access transfer case bolts, the gearbox gear stub will hold the transfer case and you can rotate it. Don't forget, there is an O ring seal between transfer case and gearbox and you cannot replace that if you don't pull and remove transfer case from gearbox stub.
My opinion is, better not to rotate because of that seal, but I'm not a car mechanic.
My opinion is, better not to rotate because of that seal, but I'm not a car mechanic.
#17
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Hi I am new to this forum thanks for all the info guys it's great. I have seen a bunch of info on the leaking oil pan gaskets. Not to beat a dead horse but I was wondering if the procedure is the same for my 03 x-type 2.5 with manual transmission. I am hoping things are easier for the standard tranny cars...
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i afraid of you don't have enought space to access all the transfer case bolts to rotate. You have to remove brackets around right half shaft first. So at the end it is close to (the time is same) than to remove completly the transfer case. If you can access transfer case bolts, the gearbox gear stub will hold the transfer case and you can rotate it. Don't forget, there is an o ring seal between transfer case and gearbox and you cannot replace that if you don't pull and remove transfer case from gearbox stub.
My opinion is, better not to rotate because of that seal, but i'm not a car mechanic.
My opinion is, better not to rotate because of that seal, but i'm not a car mechanic.
#19
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Jaguar Oil Pan gasket replacement
I thought the oil pan gasket was a pretty simple job. Couldn't you just jack the car up, drain the oil, loosen the bolts on the oil pan, and replace the gasket? it seems that if you elevate it enough it would be pretty easy. Is there something I am overlooking here?
#20
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not on a Xtype its not....its pays 9 hours and there are only 3 short cuts