I'm relatively sure the starter is bad in one of the VDPs as it won't start and it seems like it really taxes the battery when I try to start the car. It's not the bulkhead connector as I have really tightened it and checked the voltage there. It looks like I'll need to remove the motor mount to get to the top starter bolt. Are there any words of wisdom from the group on getting that top bolt out? Not looking forward to that project as the engine mount and the support seem to be in the way and even removing the support looks like a problem. What's the usual method of getting this replaced? Weird thing though, I've never had a starter or the alternators fail on the five XJ*'s I have owned but I suppose there's a first time!

Thanks in advance, Best, Dave

 

Find a nearby starter and alternator rebuilder in your area and let them do it.

 

Maybe it would be worthwhile to check the contacts in the starter relay first?
It’s behind the bulkhead connector inside the module cool box. You’ll need a Phillips head screwdriver and a T30 Torx to get inside of the box.

 

Oh yeah, i'll check that! Thanks!

 

I'll replace the starter with a new one if that's the problem; even if I need to drop the steering rack or lift then engine. It just looks like a pain to remove that top bolt.

 

You can swap out the relay with a much less important one such as a rear fog light relay in the trunk fuse box. If you do replace the starter, don’t even touch the bottom one until the top one is out first. You shouldn’t need to drop the steering rack but, just get the car up on jack-stands. I’ve had the best luck with a 13mm shallow well 1/4” drive socket, a 6” long 1/4” drive extension, a 3/8” to 1/4” drive adapter socket and a 3/8” drive long handle ratchet. A strong flashlight and a mechanics mirror help also. You may need to use a flexible (or universal) short extension also.

 

Well, I got the starter replaced today! Took about five hours as that top bolt is really in a difficult position and even when it's removed, just trying to maneuver the old one out and get the new one back in place tough without removing the motor mount! It took all of my experience of fixing cars and the all the various tools, ratchets, sockets, and extensions to get it out and back in. Thanks for the tip on using the 1/4" stuff especially to get that top bolt in! Once it was in and tightened with the 1/4", i went back with the 3/8's and tightened it down so I'm relatively sure it's in there tight.
This forum is a HUGE help in keeping these old cars going. Thanks you Addicted and everyone else that chimed in.

.In just this year on this particular car I have done the following:
1. Replaced the grinding rear end and all the shocks and mounts,
2. Replaced the front shocks
3. Replaced pressure regulator #3 in the transmission
4. It has had a small miss for some time so I swapped the throttle body and replaced the power brake booster fitting under the throttle body and changed the knock sensor on the driver side a few weeks ago.
Didn't resolve the problem so last weekend i:changed the spark plugs, injectors, manifold gaskets, many O'rings on the vacuum hoses and also installed a new water pump and hoses and gaskets. Then a couple of days later the starter acted up. That's replaced now but the car still has that tiny stumble! It also needs new front and rear engine seals but you know what that means.

Not sure how much I can take with this particular car. The other one that has the dented door (with the engine from my old 2000 VDP; 300K miles and leaks oil )) runs great!
I'm probably gonna look into a newer Jag next year as I'm not getting any younger and I'm tired of fooling with this car. It has about 150K miles, looks great inside and out and drives wonderfully but I'm about ready to throw in the towel..
Thanks again for the advice. Now I've cleaned up the tools and the garage and time for a cold beer!
Cheers!

 

Did your code reader give a particular cylinder misfire or just a multi cylinder misfire? Try swapping coils from the other engine and see if that helps.

 

I swapped all the coils with my other VDP previously. Also replaced the upper O2 sensor on the drivers side and the knock sensor. It would throw this code as well at times. P0174System too Lean Bank 2. I also replaced the fuel pump and filter in this car a few months back when it failed but that did not correct it. When I replaced the fuel injectors last week, I used the fuel rail from my wrecked VDP thinking perhaps the regulator was not acting right.
When I watch the live readings of the O2 sensors, they read virtually the same from left to right bank but I'm wondering if the cat is clogged on the driver side? Would be weird to think so as I've never had that problem with my cars. I do have some from my wrecked car but at this point, I'll drive it a while to see if the code does not pop up again. If not, that's just the way it will be.....
This car engine has probably 150K less miles than my other car. (Which has the engine from my wrecked VDP that had about 250K ) That engine /car definitely runs better. Has more instant pep and acceleration. its a head scratcher....

 

Have you smoked the vacuum system? It sounds to me like you have a vacuum leak. Pardon me if you have done this previously and I missed it.

 

Clean the maf sensor.

 

Thanks for the ideas guys! I have both cleaned and then swapped the MAF and did a smoke test (but not sure how much it really worked) before I did all that work recently and still got the warning. I really thought it would clear when I replaced the little plastic part in the power brake booster line connection under the throttle body. It was broken and I had glued in with RTV some time back but upon inspection, the plastic line was loose some years later.
Since I replaced everything I think that might leak vacuum, I'm not sure about the vacuum being the trouble. I even have a new oil cap and O-ring on the dipstick. I'll need to drive the car for a while and see if the P0174 comes back. I've not driven it hardly since I did all the work. I'll keep you posted.

 

Well, it ain't the starter! Must be the alternator as it acts up when hot and it's been very hot around here the past few days. When it happens it's a huge drain on the battery; enough that the windows do not work or cannot open the trunk with the button. Removed the power cable from the bulkhead connector and things work again. I'd guess a diode is failing when hot and sucking down the battery? After a few hours when it cooled down I installed the cable and it started right up. Last time it acted up was when it was also very hot outside and I'd been driving it. Fortunately I was home when I tried to start it! I have another starter arriving today and will change it tomorrow. This better fix the car! Will post results....

 

It will most likely not be the alternator. This is what you need to check.

1) The ground cable under the engine.
2) The bulkhead connector on the passenger side rearward of the shock mount. Check both sides of the bulkhead.
3) In front of the spare tire just to the right is the mega fuses. It’s a little black box that should have a cover on it.
4) The positive battery cable from the mega fuses to the battery.
5) The negative battery cable.

What I listed above are likely to have.

READ THIS. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...common-282011/

 

Thanks for the message as those are all points of potential problems. I had removed the connectors and checked and put electrical grease on everything just in case. I did have that exact thing go wrong with the connection at the heavy fuse box on the XJR I had for a while so was familiar with the possibility I ended up changing the alternator so if that's not the problem, I suppose it will happen again! I am attaching a pix of the fuse box for you review as I do value our opinion.

The connector on the alternator seemed to have had water in it at some point.....perhaps that was an indication of a problem? Sprayed the connector out with Deoxit before I reinstalled.




I hope my troubles are behind me!

 

Well, it ain't the alternator either! Not sure what is going on. When I turn the key, I get a click and the lights dim and the car does not start. Today I connected the volt meter at the battery terminals and the level was dropping. While that was going on I disconnected the power to the false bulkhead connector, the power to the two fuse boxes in the engine compartment, and the fuse box in the trunk..Still was going down. It stopped dropping at some point though I'm not sure what triggered the problem to end. I then reconnected everything and with the jump box attached, the car started normally. Will fool with it perhaps later today....
Whatever it is causes the power to drain from the battery. In the space of about 15 minutes it was down to 9 volts.

 

You will need a properly charged battery (trickle charge over a day or two) or maybe the battery needs to be replaced? Either way, if you started the engine up from ambient first thing in the morning, I would check the running voltage at the bulkhead stud and at the battery posts. If everything is working correctly, you should have about 14.3 volts at the bulkhead and at least 14 at the battery with no loads on. If you drove it about 5 miles and leave the engine running, you should still have that same (14.3 & 14.0) voltage at the same two test points under the same no loads on (including both cooling fans off) circumstances. If the voltage has dropped say to 13.5 volts, then I’d carefully compare all the battery cables for a much warmer one than the others. Example: If either of the 2 major ground cables are warm or hot to the touch, then that will be your problem. I’ve seen this many times occur. Again, this is assuming the battery health is ok.

 

You were correct, it was not the alternator. The power cable in the right hand heel box was not very tight so once that was screwed down, there has been no problem at all! Finally, though it was a hard lesson to learn. As always, thanks much for the advice.

Best, Dave

 

We are surely glad you found the issue. I know that has to feel great!