Fuel Injectors - $1,600!!!!
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This is new......
First, with all that's been done, check it for the sensor lead being pinched.
Is the connector [or connectors, really] clipped to the thermostat housing soaked by coolant? That can short down the knock sensor signal and give that code.
Were the sensors taken loose?? They may have over-torqued them when securing them back.
Make sure the code is consistent and repeatable before changing it out.
Cheers,
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OldMike (05-04-2013)
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The connectors were soaked with coolant when I first started on this project over a month ago, but now they're dry -- I cautiously sprayed some compressed air (from a can) on the connectors to dry them out. I didn't disconnect anything, but tested for tightness.
The code is consistent and can't be erased.
One thing to note -- maybe an anomaly, but worth mentioning -- after spraying with compressed air and then starting the car, the restricted performance message, the amber light, and even the CEL didn't illuminate for about a minute of idling.
The code is consistent and can't be erased.
One thing to note -- maybe an anomaly, but worth mentioning -- after spraying with compressed air and then starting the car, the restricted performance message, the amber light, and even the CEL didn't illuminate for about a minute of idling.
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Ok, just to make sure I'm zeroing in on the problem -- is bank 1 on the driver's side of my left hand drive vehicle, or the passenger's side?
Ok, I found the old thread that said Bank 1 is on the driver's side (right side!) and I see that it was posted by someone from where the driver's side is on the right side! DUH!!! So, here in the US it would be the passenger's side (right side!). Geez!!! I can be pretty dense sometimes!
Ok, I found the old thread that said Bank 1 is on the driver's side (right side!) and I see that it was posted by someone from where the driver's side is on the right side! DUH!!! So, here in the US it would be the passenger's side (right side!). Geez!!! I can be pretty dense sometimes!
Last edited by OldMike; 05-04-2013 at 01:04 PM. Reason: to explain my stupidity!
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Now I'd like to know the best place to order the knock sensor from -- the local Jaguar dealer has them (in stock, I believe) for $140. I've see them on line in the $85 range, but I want to (1) make sure I get the proper one, and (2) don't waste too much time and money.
Can I safely drive my car in restricted performance mode?
Can I safely drive my car in restricted performance mode?
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I would try Gaudin in Nevada 702 221 4400
Gaudin Luxury Cars Las Vegas, New & Used Porsche, Jaguar Car Dealer Las Vegas, Nevada
They usually have good prices.
The IAT sensor I just got from them was $74 vs $120 locally.
Gaudin Luxury Cars Las Vegas, New & Used Porsche, Jaguar Car Dealer Las Vegas, Nevada
They usually have good prices.
The IAT sensor I just got from them was $74 vs $120 locally.
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OldMike (05-04-2013)
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I'm pretty sure mine (2003) is of the more expensive variety. I looked at the write-up on this site about how to change out the knock sensors, but it doesn't seem to apply to me.
Is there another write-up that anyone knows about? Seems like a pretty straightforward procedure, but it'd be nice to "see" how it's done before doing it for the first time.
Always seems like there's some "hidden" or "unexpected" issue with even the simplest jobs!
Is there another write-up that anyone knows about? Seems like a pretty straightforward procedure, but it'd be nice to "see" how it's done before doing it for the first time.
Always seems like there's some "hidden" or "unexpected" issue with even the simplest jobs!
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jimlombardi (05-04-2013)
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XJR Prototype good call on amazingsavingsautoparts.com
SKU KS305 Standard Motor Products Ignition Knock (Detonation) Sensor
Wow, great price (about $26 with shipping - usps) and they are located in Brooklyn, NY.
Looks like the same one that DavidN recommended and OldMike needs.
View the PDF file I created from DavidN thread on knock sensors page 9 shows the sensor end on the stud:
http://www.mediafire.com/view/?oss71axa467vsj6
Also look at page 11 in the PDF file showing photo of the old (4.0) and new (4.2) knock sensors.
Jim Lombardi
SKU KS305 Standard Motor Products Ignition Knock (Detonation) Sensor
Wow, great price (about $26 with shipping - usps) and they are located in Brooklyn, NY.
Looks like the same one that DavidN recommended and OldMike needs.
View the PDF file I created from DavidN thread on knock sensors page 9 shows the sensor end on the stud:
http://www.mediafire.com/view/?oss71axa467vsj6
Also look at page 11 in the PDF file showing photo of the old (4.0) and new (4.2) knock sensors.
Jim Lombardi
Last edited by jimlombardi; 05-05-2013 at 12:11 PM.
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This is the one they show for my car.
Standard Motor Products Ignition Knock (Detonation) Sensor KS308 | Emission Control Sensors | SIKS308
Why do you guys say that the other one would work for me? I'm always interested in saving money.
Standard Motor Products Ignition Knock (Detonation) Sensor KS308 | Emission Control Sensors | SIKS308
Why do you guys say that the other one would work for me? I'm always interested in saving money.
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Old Mike
I put together this JPG file that shows the various knock sensors available for each of the XJ vin ranges. Click on the image when dropbox webpage opens to get a better view.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hwrh13yb24...comparison.jpg
DavidN pointed out in his Knock Sensor replacement DIY thread that the less expensive XJ 4.2 X350 knock sensor can be used in place of the XJ X308 A27 ones.
Jim Lombardi
I put together this JPG file that shows the various knock sensors available for each of the XJ vin ranges. Click on the image when dropbox webpage opens to get a better view.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hwrh13yb24...comparison.jpg
DavidN pointed out in his Knock Sensor replacement DIY thread that the less expensive XJ 4.2 X350 knock sensor can be used in place of the XJ X308 A27 ones.
Jim Lombardi
Last edited by jimlombardi; 05-05-2013 at 12:12 PM.
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