Fuel pump! Need help!
#1
Fuel pump! Need help!
hi i just changed out my fueld pump using this method https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...e-81664/page4/
pain in the *** btw, but my car still wont start, I am thinking it is a burnt link lead. so my question is how can i tell if the link lead burnt out? and how/where do I buy another one! thanks. these gasoline fumes got me with a major headache!
pain in the *** btw, but my car still wont start, I am thinking it is a burnt link lead. so my question is how can i tell if the link lead burnt out? and how/where do I buy another one! thanks. these gasoline fumes got me with a major headache!
#2
Well u should have really examined those with the tank out....can u hear the pump run when u turn the key? If not check and swap ur relays around and try again. If u do hear the pump then it works and u will have to crank until u get fuel to the fuel rails. It may act like cylinder wash too. Floor it and crank. It took me 30 min o cranking after I changed mine.
The following users liked this post:
stran0020 (02-03-2013)
#3
Well u should have really examined those with the tank out....can u hear the pump run when u turn the key? If not check and swap ur relays around and try again. If u do hear the pump then it works and u will have to crank until u get fuel to the fuel rails. It may act like cylinder wash too. Floor it and crank. It took me 30 min o cranking after I changed mine.
I looked at the link leads while I was splicing the wires for the denso pigtail, I wasn't sure what to look for but it was a little brownish, I figured it was just discoloration from the gasoline. Would that be a sign of a bad link lead is so where would I be able to buy one? Thanks so much
#4
You can hear a high pitched pump whine when you turn the ignition on, someone in the drivers seat, and open the trunk lid, get your head in towards the tank, removing the carpet helps, a whine should be heard if working.
To be honest I would have checked this before reassembly because it is a bugger of a job!
The brown colour will 90% be fuel discolouration.
The fuel relays are located in the trunk fuse box near the battery, I don't know your model/year, but the fuel relays on mine are located bottom left, and second left in the Tee shaped relay arrangement. They all work the same say swapping any will test them.
Have you fitted a fuel filter also? Have you done a fuel pressure test? there's a valve on the injection rail driver side that you can depress on cranking the engine (2 man job) see if it squirts out or dribbles. This is a very rough test to see if the pump's getting fuel up. If you have pressure, then it's a case of cylinder wash and go down that route to start it up.
You need to remove the coilpack covers/coils and plugs on the easiest side, (passenger) and get a small amount of oil into the bores via the plug wells, a syringe is the ideal tool with a bit of fish tank air hose/screen washer hose, you know the type I mean. By small amount I mean a tea spoon. Button up and crank with the gas pedal to the floor (the ecu cuts full in this case) in order to coat the compression rings to gather compression. Then go for a start.
Good luck and I hope this post helps.
To be honest I would have checked this before reassembly because it is a bugger of a job!
The brown colour will 90% be fuel discolouration.
The fuel relays are located in the trunk fuse box near the battery, I don't know your model/year, but the fuel relays on mine are located bottom left, and second left in the Tee shaped relay arrangement. They all work the same say swapping any will test them.
Have you fitted a fuel filter also? Have you done a fuel pressure test? there's a valve on the injection rail driver side that you can depress on cranking the engine (2 man job) see if it squirts out or dribbles. This is a very rough test to see if the pump's getting fuel up. If you have pressure, then it's a case of cylinder wash and go down that route to start it up.
You need to remove the coilpack covers/coils and plugs on the easiest side, (passenger) and get a small amount of oil into the bores via the plug wells, a syringe is the ideal tool with a bit of fish tank air hose/screen washer hose, you know the type I mean. By small amount I mean a tea spoon. Button up and crank with the gas pedal to the floor (the ecu cuts full in this case) in order to coat the compression rings to gather compression. Then go for a start.
Good luck and I hope this post helps.
Last edited by Sean B; 02-02-2013 at 08:30 AM.
The following users liked this post:
stran0020 (02-03-2013)
#5
Thanks sean and coastal finally got the jag to run again. still lots of other small things to fix but i can finally cross this one off the list. got the kitty at 70k miles and now it has 115k on it!
If anyone needs help on fuel pump troubles these diagrams should help lots.
Check fuse number 7
Check fuel pump relay number 4
I changed out the fuel pump using the method https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...e-81664/page4/ post #71
hope this helps a little. thanks again everyone!
If anyone needs help on fuel pump troubles these diagrams should help lots.
Check fuse number 7
Check fuel pump relay number 4
I changed out the fuel pump using the method https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...e-81664/page4/ post #71
hope this helps a little. thanks again everyone!
#6
#7
its always hard to start a fuel injected car after replacing the fuel pump because you get air in the lines and all the fuel drains out..no pressure etc...it took me and my Dad at least 30 to 45 min to get ours to start and we didn't use oil...finally had to just floor it and crank with a strong battery...it finally fired up after it had sat in previous owners driveway for 2 years....smoked like hell for 20 minutes and now runs beautifully!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)