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My sons new free XJ8 is in the process of getting ready to be smogged and registered, so I was driving it to get past the emissions tests. I had stopped at a business and when I came out- no start situation. It kept trying to catch, but would not actually kick and run. Time for the tow truck.
I won't bore you with the details of the troubleshooting steps, but I followed the no-start sticky and came to my conclusion below:
After pressing the schrader valve a few times, it seemed that indeed the pump had failed. I did some research online and decided to go with the Airtex pump (E2471) It did not come with a strainer, so I reused the old one, which looked fine.
Here are the steps I covered to do the job:
WARNING- You are working near gasoline. The fumes can and will ignite with spark or flame. I repeat, gasoline fumes will ignite with spark or flame. Work slowly and with a helper if possible, so that if there is a situation, you are not alone. Also, use a well ventilated area, I worked outside with the doors and boot opened.
1. Remove both rear seats
2. Remove parcel shelf, foam insulation and subwoofer
3. Remove trunk (boot) carpet from tank and wheel wells and unplug all of the electrical connectors at the top of the tank
4. With a dremel, I used a cutting wheel (well, more like 8) to cut away a portion of the parcel tray metal- it looked similar to this-
My cut did not get as close to the edge towards the front of the car, which was a mistake- I had a VERY difficult time getting to one of the hoses and pulling it off, much less putting it back on.
5. Remove hoses- this is a bit difficult as they have been there for a long time- patience is key here. You may have to do this step after #6, I did.
6. Gently hammer the lock ring off of the collar
7. Carefully pull out the unit that the hoses all attached to-
My car has the sending unit in the middle of the rear of the tank, so yours may be different.
8. Unplug small connector that goes to the fuel pump
9. You will now be able to look down and see the pump and the small bolt that holds the bracket down.
10. Unbolt the bracket and pull the pump up- grab the bolt before it falls into tha tank. (consider using a 1/4 inch ratchet and extensions along with a wobble or universal to reach it and get a good bite.
11. Twist and pull the pump until you can get it out enough to loosen the hose clamp and remove the hose from the pump.
12. Remove the pump
13. Pull the pump from the bracket and put the new one in- it may not be a perfect fit with the new pump and the old rubber isolaters, but hey, we aren't using a factory pump now are we?
14. Put strainer on new pump that is in the bracket
15. installation is the opposite of removal
16. i attached the fuel pressure tester and turned the key to the on position- BAM! Pressure was good again!
This took me about 3 hours, start to finish- I took my time and put everything back nicely so you could not tell I had been in there.
SOMETHING INTERESTING- the fans were coming on at about 160f and the car would not fully warm up prior to the pump change- it warms up nicely now and sits between 196f and 204f all day long.
My hypothesis is that the current pull of a dying fuel pump threw something off and was causing incorrect readings of the engine temp.
As always, let me know if I missed anything- It was not the most difficult job in the world, I would compare it to replacing an intake manifold in terms of time and difficulty.
We really should have some kind of scale of difficulty here on Jaguar forums- 1 being operate the car, 50 being valley hoses and 100 being rebuilding of an engine. I'll call this one a 38.
My sons new free XJ8 is in the process of getting ready to be smogged and registered, so I was driving it to get past the emissions tests. I had stopped at a business and when I came out- no start situation. It kept trying to catch, but would not actually kick and run. Time for the tow truck.
I won't bore you with the details of the troubleshooting steps, but I followed the no-start sticky and came to my conclusion below:
After pressing the schrader valve a few times, it seemed that indeed the pump had failed. I did some research online and decided to go with the Airtex pump (E2471) It did not come with a strainer, so I reused the old one, which looked fine.
Here are the steps I covered to do the job:
WARNING- You are working near gasoline. The fumes can and will ignite with spark or flame. I repeat, gasoline fumes will ignite with spark or flame. Work slowly and with a helper if possible, so that if there is a situation, you are not alone. Also, use a well ventilated area, I worked outside with the doors and boot opened.
1. Remove both rear seats
2. Remove parcel shelf, foam insulation and subwoofer
3. Remove trunk (boot) carpet from tank and wheel wells and unplug all of the electrical connectors at the top of the tank
4. With a dremel, I used a cutting wheel (well, more like 8) to cut away a portion of the parcel tray metal- it looked similar to this-
My cut did not get as close to the edge towards the front of the car, which was a mistake- I had a VERY difficult time getting to one of the hoses and pulling it off, much less putting it back on.
5. Remove hoses- this is a bit difficult as they have been there for a long time- patience is key here. You may have to do this step after #6, I did.
6. Gently hammer the lock ring off of the collar
7. Carefully pull out the unit that the hoses all attached to-
My car has the sending unit in the middle of the rear of the tank, so yours may be different.
8. Unplug small connector that goes to the fuel pump
9. You will now be able to look down and see the pump and the small bolt that holds the bracket down.
10. Unbolt the bracket and pull the pump up- grab the bolt before it falls into tha tank. (consider using a 1/4 inch ratchet and extensions along with a wobble or universal to reach it and get a good bite.
11. Twist and pull the pump until you can get it out enough to loosen the hose clamp and remove the hose from the pump.
12. Remove the pump
13. Pull the pump from the bracket and put the new one in- it may not be a perfect fit with the new pump and the old rubber isolaters, but hey, we aren't using a factory pump now are we?
14. Put strainer on new pump that is in the bracket
15. installation is the opposite of removal
16. i attached the fuel pressure tester and turned the key to the on position- BAM! Pressure was good again!
This took me about 3 hours, start to finish- I took my time and put everything back nicely so you could not tell I had been in there.
SOMETHING INTERESTING- the fans were coming on at about 160f and the car would not fully warm up prior to the pump change- it warms up nicely now and sits between 196f and 204f all day long.
My hypothesis is that the current pull of a dying fuel pump threw something off and was causing incorrect readings of the engine temp.
As always, let me know if I missed anything- It was not the most difficult job in the world, I would compare it to replacing an intake manifold in terms of time and difficulty.
We really should have some kind of scale of difficulty here on Jaguar forums- 1 being operate the car, 50 being valley hoses and 100 being rebuilding of an engine. I'll call this one a 38.
Nice writeup. Did you install any bracing over the rear shelf hole you created for access?
Not criticizing the work but chopping part of the bodywork instead of pulling the tank? why?
To remove the tank jack the car up release the two fuel lines running up into the bottom of the tank.
Unbolt the two torx that hold the steel bands and hold them with bungie on the trunk lid.
Unclip the harness and pull the tank to access the top. Switch pumps and reverse assembly. Far safer, far easier.
I'd have it done while you're messing round with Dremmel bits.
No chance of fire, no chance of smashing the rear screen, no chance of upsetting electrics, no chance of damaging trim, would I do it your way - NO CHANCE!
I did this with my XK8. If I have a pump failure while on a trip I can change the pump quickly without jacking the car up. I have a plate pop riveted over the opening.
I did this with my XK8. If I have a pump failure while on a trip I can change the pump quickly without jacking the car up. I have a plate pop riveted over the opening.
Sean- It was a 'free" car with prior body damage, so I set my purist opinions aside as the value of this particular car will never be high. Speed and ease over technique.
I trust your assertion regarding time and ease though, and next time I will do it the right way.
Truth be told, my son is holding my XK8 hostage while I get his ready- it has been two months and I REALLY want my car back.
I changed out my xj8 fuel pump by pulling the tank (couldn't get my "repair manual" cd to work) so I wasn't aware of the quick connects at the bottom of the tank until too late, and screwed up one of the connectors. Didn't know about the hole in the bodywork underneath, but looked like I would have had to drop the rear end in order to get at it, anyway.
When I finally got it out (the big electrical connector at the right hand side just above the tank got damaged because in order to get the tank out, you must first disconnect it. Got it back and wired it in place so it would stay connected after getting the tank back, but now I am not getting any power to the fuel pump.
Any suggestions?
I also have a 1987 ford thunderbird that had that "no power to the pump" issue, and after getting a wiring book, figured out that it was the ignition switch that was bad. Since this jaguar is Ford made, do you think that might be the problem, too?
The Jags are not Ford made, a common misconception. Have ou downloaded the JTIS21 repair manual from the sticky? If so, you can use the wiring diagrams to trace the circuits. They are also available from jagrepair.com.
My sons new free XJ8 is in the process of getting ready to be smogged and registered, so I was driving it to get past the emissions tests. I had stopped at a business and when I came out- no start situation. It kept trying to catch, but would not actually kick and run. Time for the tow truck.
I won't bore you with the details of the troubleshooting steps, but I followed the no-start sticky and came to my conclusion below:
After pressing the schrader valve a few times, it seemed that indeed the pump had failed. I did some research online and decided to go with the Airtex pump (E2471) It did not come with a strainer, so I reused the old one, which looked fine.
Here are the steps I covered to do the job:
......>>>>> .
I have often wondered about this technique.
I have no qualms about chopping the back parcel shelf but all those sparks
during cutting has me worried ;o]
Getting under the car to disconnect the fuel pipes is a PIA!
All X308 petrol/gas tanks have their senders midway down the rear side of the tank.
I guess the aperture is not big enough to replace the fuel pump from there?
All X308 petrol/gas tanks have their senders midway down the rear side of the tank.
From 2001 MY onward the sender is NOT accessible from the rear of the tank, it is mounted next to the pump and connected electrically to the evap flange.
The Jags are not Ford made, a common misconception. Have ou downloaded the JTIS21 repair manual from the sticky? If so, you can use the wiring diagrams to trace the circuits. They are also available from jagrepair.com.
"sticky" sounds familiar, but I can't remember where I heard of it. Will look at jagrepair.com, too.
From 2001 MY onward the sender is NOT accessible from the rear of the tank, it is mounted next to the pump and connected electrically to the evap flange.
bob
Thanks for that info Bob....I should have added i was referring to AJ26 models.
So, if anything the later AJ27 models are even less user friendly yes? ;o]
They both run at initial start up/systems check, then the second one shuts off until you reach 3000 RPM or so, so having two pumps is not going to save you if the first one goes bad.
Somewhat related, for the twin-pump XJR's, do they have two fuel filters as well? I'm planning on replacing both pumps soon and may as well do it all at once.
My sons new free XJ8 is in the process of getting ready to be smogged and registered, so I was driving it to get past the emissions tests. I had stopped at a business and when I came out- no start situation. It kept trying to catch, but would not actually kick and run. Time for the tow truck.
I won't bore you with the details of the troubleshooting steps, but I followed the no-start sticky and came to my conclusion below:
After pressing the schrader valve a few times, it seemed that indeed the pump had failed. I did some research online and decided to go with the Airtex pump (E2471) It did not come with a strainer, so I reused the old one, which looked fine.
Here are the steps I covered to do the job:
WARNING- You are working near gasoline. The fumes can and will ignite with spark or flame. I repeat, gasoline fumes will ignite with spark or flame. Work slowly and with a helper if possible, so that if there is a situation, you are not alone. Also, use a well ventilated area, I worked outside with the doors and boot opened.
1. Remove both rear seats
2. Remove parcel shelf, foam insulation and subwoofer
3. Remove trunk (boot) carpet from tank and wheel wells and unplug all of the electrical connectors at the top of the tank
4. With a dremel, I used a cutting wheel (well, more like 8) to cut away a portion of the parcel tray metal- it looked similar to this-
My cut did not get as close to the edge towards the front of the car, which was a mistake- I had a VERY difficult time getting to one of the hoses and pulling it off, much less putting it back on.
5. Remove hoses- this is a bit difficult as they have been there for a long time- patience is key here. You may have to do this step after #6, I did.
6. Gently hammer the lock ring off of the collar
7. Carefully pull out the unit that the hoses all attached to-
My car has the sending unit in the middle of the rear of the tank, so yours may be different.
8. Unplug small connector that goes to the fuel pump
9. You will now be able to look down and see the pump and the small bolt that holds the bracket down.
10. Unbolt the bracket and pull the pump up- grab the bolt before it falls into tha tank. (consider using a 1/4 inch ratchet and extensions along with a wobble or universal to reach it and get a good bite.
11. Twist and pull the pump until you can get it out enough to loosen the hose clamp and remove the hose from the pump.
12. Remove the pump
13. Pull the pump from the bracket and put the new one in- it may not be a perfect fit with the new pump and the old rubber isolaters, but hey, we aren't using a factory pump now are we?
14. Put strainer on new pump that is in the bracket
15. installation is the opposite of removal
16. i attached the fuel pressure tester and turned the key to the on position- BAM! Pressure was good again!
This took me about 3 hours, start to finish- I took my time and put everything back nicely so you could not tell I had been in there.
SOMETHING INTERESTING- the fans were coming on at about 160f and the car would not fully warm up prior to the pump change- it warms up nicely now and sits between 196f and 204f all day long.
My hypothesis is that the current pull of a dying fuel pump threw something off and was causing incorrect readings of the engine temp.
As always, let me know if I missed anything- It was not the most difficult job in the world, I would compare it to replacing an intake manifold in terms of time and difficulty.
We really should have some kind of scale of difficulty here on Jaguar forums- 1 being operate the car, 50 being valley hoses and 100 being rebuilding of an engine. I'll call this one a 38.
I am in the midst of changing the fuel pump which is "conveniently" located in the tank. Removal of tank requires removal of the two flexible fuel lines at the bottom front of the tank. These can only be accessed through a 3" gap above the differential, through which removal of the clips is required! I have come to the conclusion that the fuel lines connecting to the tank were factory installed before the rear suspension sub frame was installed- hence they are practically impossible to get at without removing the rear suspension sub frame! A truly horrible piece of engineering without regard to maintenance access to the fuel pump. Hence I am coming around to the reluctant conclusion that cutting a hole in the rear shelf is the best approach. Anybody out there with any smarter ideas?
09-04-2015, 07:05 AM
Fuel pump swap
