Cheers Greg I appreciate the reply.

Mate I am at work at the moment so away from the car, just wondering where the collision switch is?

 

RH pillar, usually clobbered by your foot as you enter and exit the car, well I did mainly. It is covered by a plastic trim cover (Black) and a push pull switch is under that cover.

UP is OFF, DOWN is obviously ON.

Your wish list is way too short.

 

The Wizard returns!!

Welcome back mate.

Cheers bud, I can't say I knew the switch existed Is it the one circled in the picture? (You might recall that is one of the original photos you sent me. I had it on my hard drive )

So being that it is a "collision" switch are you supposed to activate if you have a crash or something or is it used for maintenance purposes like we are doing here?

 

The idea is that if you have a crash the inertia switch clonks out, thus saving your unconscious body from being incinerated by petrol still pumping out at 70psi and x hundred litres a minute!


Greg

 

Bro

Its not the Petrol that you want to Switch Off!

That 'Goose' is doing my head in (Lol!)

 

Cheers Greg. I never knew that. So the picture circled in red above is the collision switch?


oh you mean my flying goose animated gif? That is a rare species of Blue Goose also known as Jaguarillis Exjayexuss

 

This has been a very helpful post. Hopefully by the weeks end I will be an XJS owner. I plan on starting a log book to keep track of services, maintain a "squawk list" and keep list of parts numbers and suppliers for service components. This forum is an amazing resource. Thanks to all.

 

Agreed mate

I'm glad it was useful to more than just me (the thread starter). That is really cool. I'm a big believer in sharing information for the greater good!

I just hope one day I can help out another when I build up my skills and knowledge

 

Yep, RED circle is the switch in question.

Greg answered the rest of the question.

Some have reported that switch tripping if the door is SLAMMED, which apart from being UN-Jaguar, causes much grief for the owner to try and find out why his mighty V12 "NO start", and usually gets a "War and Peace" sized thread on here before said switch is reset, and drinks flow more than at CLeake's place.

 

ha ha Ill have to remember that one....although it could be a good excuse for a **** up!

 

wow...had to brush off the cobwebs before I entered in this thread...feels like I havent been on the forums in ages. Been crazy busy with work.

Well I finally ordered my Fuel Filter and now just waiting for it to arrive from Jagdaim.

Couldnt get a ryco Z168. They told me the one they use is from the UK and is an EAC3112. Hope it will be ok.

 

Heh guys. Fuel filter arrived today....just getting ready to do it in the next day or so.

Just going back a few months in regards to method as recommended by the great ones..

So going by a quick look before (see picture) my collision switch just looks like it has a button on top...so as mentioned above.....running the car for a few moments I just simply pull this little button up and my engine will cut out?

Once I swap out the filter and all I just simply press this down again , start her up and "wella" cleaner fuel going to my engine?

Its funny how 600V AC doesnt scare me but an automobile does lol!

 

Paul
Once the switch is up, the engine will gradually die as fuel pressure drops. Just let it die and then the lines will be depressurised. When you have finished, reset the switch and current is restored to the pump. Then a few on and offs with the ignition will prime the system, the pump runs for 2 or 3 seconds each time the ignition is switched on. Once that is done, start it normally.
Greg

 

What could possibly go wrong.

 

Cheers mate.

So just out of interest sake, is the collision switch just a normally closed switch in series with the fuel pump or is it more complicated than that? I see the cable going to the bottom of it is a multi-pin connector with a few wires going to it. Just interested to learn a little more about it

 

Well now that wasn't too hard! I survived without blowing myself up so I'm happy.

Before I started I looked at the workshop manual and it stressed the importance of de-pressurizing the system as we discussed however it talks about pulling the lead for the fuel pump and starting her up without the ignition coil on.....are we just effectively doing the same thing only easier by pulling up the Collision Switch?

Well either way, I just pulled the switch up as Greg mentioned and the engine cut out in a few seconds.

Once I placed all the rags down and a bucket just in case, I removed the filter. There was a little bit of back pressure, but none to write home about. Caught most of the dribble in my bucket I laid underneath.

Actually noticed the fuel that came out of the filter didnt look too bad, however I am no expert so not really sure what dirty fuel would look like.

Anyway, put the other one on no probs and she was good to go.

Whilst I was there I finally got around to re-wiring my fuel sensor as the earth wire was melted and hanging on by a few copper strands. Not sure why but I'm thinking maybe there was a breakdown in insulation and it was shorting on 12V near the battery at one stage....dunno?

I cut back the wires near my battery/ECU area and connected a new cable with inline crimps. Fitted off new connectors on the other end and picked up an earth closer to the sensor, which was much easier to get to it.

So , cleaned up, pushed the Collision switch down, primed the engine a few times (thanks Greg) and then cranked it. She started first go and I let her run for a few minutes, checking in the boot to makes sure the filter didnt have any leaks or anything nasty. All looked good.

Thanks for all your help guys yet again!

 

Inertia switches!!! I learned of them in real time. A couple od decades ago, I was driving my "unlucky' 88 Tbird on the freeway near Berkeley, CA. A guy in a little Asian truck hit my left quarter hard !!! The engine shut down, I coasted off to the shoulder, rolling to a stop. No PS or PB!!! He pulled in behind me and as a gentleman was most apologetic. Rare, huh!!! We called the CHP on my car phone. Great cop. Did a proper interview and investigation and assisted in the exchange of information.


But, the Tbird would not start. He had an inkling. We decided to check before calling a flat bed. I had my manual!!! Yahoo, inertia switch in the boot behind a trim panel. Yup, sure enough. Pushed the button. cranked it. Fired right up!!!
He, "neat, I have a Mustang, same platform, my manual is going in the glove box!".


So far no need to trip the one in either my Jeep or Jaguar.


Side bar: Just reported mileage to my insurer. Circa 215, 500 fore the Jeep and 133,. 200 for the Jaguar. Miles that is, not KM's. .


Carl

 

Oh, not a bad theft deterrent as well, as a pum disable for diagnostic or repoair reasons.


Carl.

 

Yeah thats actually not a bad idea for a theft deterrent. Just remember to prime the rails before you start her up again though I guess.

I wonder if anybody has done that before?

 

Guys I am due to swap out my transmission fluid. I believe we covered it earlier in the thread but just to recap:

What is the best method for doing this? I have heard sucking the old out from the Transmission Dipstick and filling it back up from there.

Also I have heard going underneath and (if I am not mistaken) unbolt the metal pan and get baptized in the juice?

Thoughts and recommendations?

The Metal Pan


As always I appreciate the help guys!