XJS Shooting Brake!! (pics)
#301
#302
Rear cargo area progress:
I've mounted a 2 channel amp (for front component speakers) and a powered subwoofer in the area behind rear seat. My initial plan was to build a 2 subwoofer system into the panel that spans between the wheel arches but I chickened out and decided on the self powered subwoofer that I had in my attic. But!
I decided to mimic an art deco radio and cut a section out of the middle of the panel. I cut a piece of peg board to fit and then covered with a fabric that looks like speaker fabric.
Goal was aesthetic as well as help amp and sub ventilate.
I've mounted a 2 channel amp (for front component speakers) and a powered subwoofer in the area behind rear seat. My initial plan was to build a 2 subwoofer system into the panel that spans between the wheel arches but I chickened out and decided on the self powered subwoofer that I had in my attic. But!
I decided to mimic an art deco radio and cut a section out of the middle of the panel. I cut a piece of peg board to fit and then covered with a fabric that looks like speaker fabric.
Goal was aesthetic as well as help amp and sub ventilate.
#303
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Greg in France (01-19-2016)
#304
#305
#306
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#307
The following 3 users liked this post by bullittandy:
#308
Great work.
That silicone and polycarbonate is going to keep your air charge much cooler than an aluminum, or, stainless tube ever will. I've been wanting to use the same materials for cold air intakes.
Did you buy, or fabricate the adapter plates between your TBs and elbows? If you bought them, what size opening are they, and,where did you find them? I'm also interested in your fabrication of the PCV and AAV inlets on the tubes.
That silicone and polycarbonate is going to keep your air charge much cooler than an aluminum, or, stainless tube ever will. I've been wanting to use the same materials for cold air intakes.
Did you buy, or fabricate the adapter plates between your TBs and elbows? If you bought them, what size opening are they, and,where did you find them? I'm also interested in your fabrication of the PCV and AAV inlets on the tubes.
#309
I bought the adaptor plates and silicon elbows on Amazon-I'll have to search for which I used (I think the adaptor plates are universally sized).
I used 2" PCV pipe for the tubes, sprayed with truck bed coating. I used a piece of 1" PVC glued in 2" pipe for the AAV and cut out the original P-C-V extension from the original airbox. The P-C-V extension was hammered and formed into a U shape and then screwed onto pipe with some RTV as sealer.
I'll post some pics soon.
I used 2" PCV pipe for the tubes, sprayed with truck bed coating. I used a piece of 1" PVC glued in 2" pipe for the AAV and cut out the original P-C-V extension from the original airbox. The P-C-V extension was hammered and formed into a U shape and then screwed onto pipe with some RTV as sealer.
I'll post some pics soon.
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JagZilla (01-25-2016)
#310
I bought the adaptor plates and silicon elbows on Amazon-I'll have to search for which I used (I think the adaptor plates are universally sized).
I used 2" PCV pipe for the tubes, sprayed with truck bed coating. I used a piece of 1" PVC glued in 2" pipe for the AAV and cut out the original P-C-V extension from the original airbox. The P-C-V extension was hammered and formed into a U shape and then screwed onto pipe with some RTV as sealer.
I'll post some pics soon.
I used 2" PCV pipe for the tubes, sprayed with truck bed coating. I used a piece of 1" PVC glued in 2" pipe for the AAV and cut out the original P-C-V extension from the original airbox. The P-C-V extension was hammered and formed into a U shape and then screwed onto pipe with some RTV as sealer.
I'll post some pics soon.
#311
Front bumper and lower grill installed
You can see the stock lower grill here, but it has been modified by cutting out slats and installing a wire mesh screen (hot tip here-don't buy the expensive precut pieces on eBay like I did at first, Lowes and Home Depot have the same material in the cement section).
Notice the black triangles, they are ABS plastic over the bumper shock mounts (I cut off most the bumper shock tube).
#312
Great work.
That silicone and polycarbonate is going to keep your air charge much cooler than an aluminum, or, stainless tube ever will. I've been wanting to use the same materials for cold air intakes.
Did you buy, or fabricate the adapter plates between your TBs and elbows? If you bought them, what size opening are they, and,where did you find them? I'm also interested in your fabrication of the PCV and AAV inlets on the tubes.
That silicone and polycarbonate is going to keep your air charge much cooler than an aluminum, or, stainless tube ever will. I've been wanting to use the same materials for cold air intakes.
Did you buy, or fabricate the adapter plates between your TBs and elbows? If you bought them, what size opening are they, and,where did you find them? I'm also interested in your fabrication of the PCV and AAV inlets on the tubes.
Here is the PCV system. I simply cut this out of stock airbag and then pre-bent it over a piece of 2.5" exhaust tube so that it would fit on plastic intake tube. I used some RTV and sheet metal screws to mount it.
The short piece of tube sticking out is 1" PVC pipe glued in and connects to the AAV hose.
Here is adaptor plate:
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JagZilla (01-31-2016)
#313
#314
That Blaupunkt is one beautiful head unit and I see that it has a USB input, how nice. A $12.00, 32 GB memory stick gives you, count them, 96 ea. FULL 6-CD changers worth of music, or some 576 CD's at average song length and number.
Changing the subject, now that's winter, even here in SoCal (50 deg in the morning) I feel the power difference (increase) that the colder intake air allows the engine to generate on my '94 AJ6 kitty. Intake air temp does make a difference, unless one has plenty of HP to spare and really don't care. Have you considered placing your intake air source to outside the hot V12 engine bay environment? Jaguar addressed this issue with MY 1993 or 1994 by placing the intake air pick up right above the fan shroud, thus picking up much cooler incoming ram air that's in front and outside the engine compartment (see picture). I had previously placed a 9" K&N on my AJ6 in the space available right under the left headlight and routing the duct through the inner wing. Don't know about equivalent space available in the right side for a V12 setup.
I don't know, but we all want to get as much power as we can from our engines, or not to lose any power for whatever reason and I consider that this fix is an obvious one. I had never noticed before where the intake air was on the 5.3 V12's until I saw yours.
Cheers,
Changing the subject, now that's winter, even here in SoCal (50 deg in the morning) I feel the power difference (increase) that the colder intake air allows the engine to generate on my '94 AJ6 kitty. Intake air temp does make a difference, unless one has plenty of HP to spare and really don't care. Have you considered placing your intake air source to outside the hot V12 engine bay environment? Jaguar addressed this issue with MY 1993 or 1994 by placing the intake air pick up right above the fan shroud, thus picking up much cooler incoming ram air that's in front and outside the engine compartment (see picture). I had previously placed a 9" K&N on my AJ6 in the space available right under the left headlight and routing the duct through the inner wing. Don't know about equivalent space available in the right side for a V12 setup.
I don't know, but we all want to get as much power as we can from our engines, or not to lose any power for whatever reason and I consider that this fix is an obvious one. I had never noticed before where the intake air was on the 5.3 V12's until I saw yours.
Cheers,
#315
If you are interested, Roger Bywater wrote an interesting piece on that subject and argued that the stock design was actually a very good compromise:
"Cold air intakes are well known as a means of improving performance. A drop in air temperature of 30 C equates to about 10% greater air density and a roughly equivalent torque gain. However this has an adverse effect on fuel efficiency at part throttle because of increased pumping work. The denser the air the more the throttle must be closed to restrict power, which increases negative pumping losses. The rule therefore is "cold air for power, hot air for economy".
All injected 5.3 V12's draw air from behind the radiator, but before condemning the arrangement for sacrificing power by inhaling heated air it should be realised that there is some subtlety at work here. At idle the under-bonnet air is certainly hot but as the car speeds up so air passes through the radiator more rapidly and heats up less as it does so. Whilst the intake air temperature at idle might be obviously hot, around 60-70 C, at motorway speeds it will be not much above 40 C so a reasonable compromise between low speed economy and high speed power is achieved with no need for complication at all.
Actually there is more to a cold air intake than just trying to scoop air from ahead of the radiator because all sorts of flow reversals take place through a radiator and around the front of a car, so without confirming by measurement it is impossible to say that any intake is really capturing cold air. The 6 litre XJ-S was introduced with "cold air intakes" yet the specific power (51 b.h.p. / litre) was less than the previous year's 5.3 XJ-S engine (53 b.h.p. / litre) with the original much derided intake arrangement, a figure equaled by the same 6 litre engine in the XJ40 saloon with intakes drawing from the wheel arches. The difference of compression ratio is not significant because the lower ratio of the 6 litre permits more ignition advance so has no real effect on specific power."
All injected 5.3 V12's draw air from behind the radiator, but before condemning the arrangement for sacrificing power by inhaling heated air it should be realised that there is some subtlety at work here. At idle the under-bonnet air is certainly hot but as the car speeds up so air passes through the radiator more rapidly and heats up less as it does so. Whilst the intake air temperature at idle might be obviously hot, around 60-70 C, at motorway speeds it will be not much above 40 C so a reasonable compromise between low speed economy and high speed power is achieved with no need for complication at all.
Actually there is more to a cold air intake than just trying to scoop air from ahead of the radiator because all sorts of flow reversals take place through a radiator and around the front of a car, so without confirming by measurement it is impossible to say that any intake is really capturing cold air. The 6 litre XJ-S was introduced with "cold air intakes" yet the specific power (51 b.h.p. / litre) was less than the previous year's 5.3 XJ-S engine (53 b.h.p. / litre) with the original much derided intake arrangement, a figure equaled by the same 6 litre engine in the XJ40 saloon with intakes drawing from the wheel arches. The difference of compression ratio is not significant because the lower ratio of the 6 litre permits more ignition advance so has no real effect on specific power."
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Greg in France (02-03-2016)
#316
Come on down anytime, I'm right next to the dead center of the city of Atlanta. Orrrrr, come on down to Pensacola in April for "Brits on the Bay" car show which is my goal to make with completed car.
Last edited by bullittandy; 02-03-2016 at 09:59 AM.
#317
Cheers,
#318
No disagreement. Cold air intakes, are nearly always preferred, and I was actually going to build my own several years ago until I saw the Bywater quote above.
I think it comes down to how encumbered the 5.3L V12 was due to 70's era engineering and practicality limits. As long as it is held back by the TH400 and the stock differential, the stock inlet is likely the best compromise.
The factory XJS cold air intake coincided with the switch to a better transmission, so if someone where to do a 5/6 speed manual or 4L60E type swap then a cold air intake modification makes a ton of sense.
#319
No disagreement. Cold air intakes, are nearly always preferred, and I was actually going to build my own several years ago until I saw the Bywater quote above.
I think it comes down to how encumbered the 5.3L V12 was due to 70's era engineering and practicality limits. As long as it is held back by the TH400 and the stock differential, the stock inlet is likely the best compromise.
The factory XJS cold air intake coincided with the switch to a better transmission, so if someone where to do a 5/6 speed manual or 4L60E type swap then a cold air intake modification makes a ton of sense.
I think it comes down to how encumbered the 5.3L V12 was due to 70's era engineering and practicality limits. As long as it is held back by the TH400 and the stock differential, the stock inlet is likely the best compromise.
The factory XJS cold air intake coincided with the switch to a better transmission, so if someone where to do a 5/6 speed manual or 4L60E type swap then a cold air intake modification makes a ton of sense.
One thing in regards to cold air intakes. It is is only one of many breathing-type routes that one can take to improve power. You can have either colder intake air (i.e. more oxygen in denser air), or more air flow via head porting/polishing, or via improved exhaust system, or yet, even more air with a turbo or a supercharger or a bottle of nitrous, and/or ultimately with a larger displacement engine but, regardless of the method used, any increase in the amount of air volume/flow, can only work with the proportionate and precise increase in the amount of fuel delivery. That old term fits perfectly when it comes to power increase, as in "there's no such a thing as a free lunch": air is free, but more power=more fuel$$. This concept alone makes Roger's statement correct: you pick up colder, denser air and now you must increase the amount of fuel in order to achieve what you're trying to get, a power increase, so there goes the mpg. Can't have your cake and eat it too... but it sure is a fun side of the car scenario.
Cheers,
#320