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'Sorry for the delay... my water injection unit is pissing water and methanol at lower psi than necessary. I've got a new higher quality switch that arrives in a couple of days. I'll get the dyno done after I dial that back in. The car is running really strong.
Iirc you were using the CM12 nozzle , that in combination with 50%/50% mix is way too rich and will cost you power. A CM3 would be more than sufficient imho (which is ¼ of the flow of the CM12).
If you want to spray before the SC, better to spray before the TB, that will avoid the opportunity for the system to leak at high vacuum (part trhottle, possibly the pissing you speak about?), and also aid in the airflow over the TB, so giving an additional (small) boost.
All- I am trying to figure out how to navigate through this blog. I must confess it's the first time I've ever been a member of a forum and a thread.
I am an American developer currently living in St. Kitts working on various renewable energy projects in the Caribbean. I am very far away from my 2001 XKR which gives me plenty of time to think about modifications I'd like to make. I was think about getting another car but realized how much I love the body style of my current car. I found this forum and the twin screw thread while looking for performance mods.
Needless to say I was very excited because the twin screw kit is exactly what I want to do. I registered on the forum but obviously didn't know how to properly check for updates.
Excited to hear what kind of power Jeff is able to get and whether he encountered any problems.
Mark, look at the top or bottom right of this page and you will see a list of page numbers
click on "First" and then work your way through the next 26.
There is also a handy link in my previous post for that intro.
I've been sick with pneumonia and allergy issues. Throw on top of that a big move of my offices. AAAAAH! I'm too tired lately, but I'm improving quickly and will be fine.
I was going to dyno the monster, but I grew concerned over a howl in the rear. It is currently having the rear end taken apart and put back together. The awesome hardened differential gears also had a coating of phosphate applied. That coating was thicker than what was told to the techs at Falconworks. It wore a bit and required that the tolerances be dialed back in. They are almost done with that work and are doing it under warranty, no cost to me. After that, I'll put her on the dyno.
I promise that I'll get those horsepower and torque numbers! It's just a matter of being safe with the newer rear differential set up at this point.
This is what I've been driving and building up while the Jag is going through its final adjustments...
The Rover now has ARB air lockers front and rear with chromoly axles. It could drive right over the Jag, then drag it 100 miles if I wanted to. Haaaaaaaaah! I put ramps up to the block wall and covered it with a towel. Those tires tend to mark their territory.
It's your guys' fault that I got a Land Rover. Get started with a Jag first, then get into off-roading also and, what, buy a Jeep? Naaaaw! Gotta keep the English gig going! By the way, the Land Rover has 187 horsepower. I've been missing driving the Jag!!!
Jeff in Tucson
Last edited by Jeff in Tucson; 06-01-2015 at 01:04 PM.
I spoke with Alan at Falconworks a few minutes ago. After studying the pinion gear, he saw that all the teeth were cracked and ready to let go.
The OS Giken differential had been making popping noises in slow hard right turns. Evidently, that stress took its toll in short order. Alan is going to put in a new pinion gear and add a friction modifier to the diffy oil to see how that does. If that doesn't last (we'll cross that bridge if and when we need to) I'll have to seek out a different type of limited slip differential.
So, it will be at least 3 more weeks to see this beastie back on the road.
Everything else is pretty well built at this point. Just need to get past this monster breaking gear teeth off!
Last edited by Jeff in Tucson; 06-01-2015 at 02:53 PM.
There have been a few threads here on the forum about fitting the X300 / XJS diff into the X308 / X100 XKR, apparently that was a much stronger unit... 15HU vs. 14HU or something like that.
I spoke with Alan at Falconworks a few minutes ago. After studying the pinion gear, he saw that all the teeth were cracked and ready to let go.
The OS Giken differential had been making popping noises in slow hard right turns. Evidently, that stress took its toll in short order. Alan is going to put in a new pinion gear and add a friction modifier to the diffy oil to see how that does. If that doesn't last (we'll cross that bridge if and when we need to) I'll have to seek out a different type of limited slip differential.
So, it will be at least 3 more weeks to see this beastie back on the road.
Everything else is pretty well built at this point. Just need to get past this monster breaking gear teeth off!
Jeff,
I understand the OS Giken is a clutch-based design. Have you thought about replacing it with a helical limited slip diff since they have much less to wear out. I have a Quaife LSD fitted and can't fault the drive. Quaife have a lifetime replacement warranty on all their diffs.
06-18-2014, 01:58 PM
