I just want to say what a pleasure it has been to follow this thread....my hat is off to both WhiteXKR and Sam. I have really enjoyed watching two first-rate minds motivate, challenge and, in a friendly way, compete with each other to come up with an elegant and practical solution to what they both perceived as a problem...whether Jaguar did or not. For me it has been a shining example of ingenuity and tenacity at work. Thanks to you both for taking us on this electrical re-engineering trip with you, I enjoyed every bit of it.....and I own a coupe!!!

 

So have you figured this out yet?

If you could reverse the rear window up/down when the top is fully down, there shouldn't be an issue... Like holding the top down until you hear the 'ding' from the top fully retracting, holding it down longer would raise the window. Then when you wanted to lower it, press up and then they would retract while the top is going back up. Hmm....

 

Gee Govatos...Just having some fun. Glad you are enjoying it.
Perhaps time for a convertible ?


Yes, all figured out. Just working on documenting it as clearly as possible....I do not have Sam's Hollywood talent.

 

Oh... SWEET! I just hope it's not too difficult.

 

Hmmm... I'm not the best looking guy. I'm more Peter North than Brad Pitt.

 

Peter North?

Is he one of those old guys?

 

For those waiting patiently, here is the write-up on the rear window control using the EXISTING ROOF switch.

To raise the rear quarter windows while the top is down, simply quickly press the ROOF UP button. You will hear 'DING' and the windows will rise fully. To lower them quickly press the ROOF DOWN button.

Holding the ROOF UP button will raise the top, and automagically lower the rear quarter windows first to prevent seal damage.

You can do it for $30-$35 worth of parts, essentially 2 time delay relays, 2 standard relays, a diode, and misc. wiring hardware. If you have installed a car radio successfully, you can do this. At first glance it may look complicated, but if you study the document, you will see it is really not bad.



(4-9-2010 UPDATE: Part I and Part II of the write-up each require 4 .250" Quick connect terminals for the standard relay connections (total of 8). This was inadvertently omitted from the parts lists. An assortment of 18-22 ga. (red) and 14-16 ga. (blue) terminals is recommended as size needed depends on the wire gauge you use.)



You do not need to know this to install it, but for those who want to know how it works:
The window up function takes advantage of the fact that the convertible raise cycle does not actually start the instant the ROOF up button is pressed, but after a 1-2 second delay. A 4 second time delay relay is set up to trigger on the release of the ROOF UP button and provide a ground to the window up relays just long enough to raise them. To make sure the switch only activates the window when the top is fully down, and never at any other time (idiot-proofing #1) the ground is provided through the relay by a microswtich already in the system that is grounded only when the top is down. The purpose of the standard relay is just to reverse the polarity of the switch from a negative going pulse to a positve going pulse to properly trigger the time delay relay. The purpose of the reverse biased diode is to suppress energy generated by the changing magnetic field of the relay to avoid potential noise introduction to the electronics in the vehicle.

The autodown function activates another 4 second time delay relay whenever the pump main control valve is activated. It turns out the pump main control valve is only activated a couple of seconds or so after starting the roof close cycle, allowing enough time for the rear quarter windows to close before the roof contacts them (idiotproofing #2). The purpose of the standard relay is to reverse the polarity of the main pump control valve drive signal to properly trigger the time delay relay. By wiring the standard relay close to the main pump valve solenoid, it can share the suppression diode already built into that solenoid, eliminating the need for an additional diode.

 

That's awesome! And that's a great writeup, too! Nice work!

 

This is awesome, guys. I'm going to have a look at this when I get more time, then order parts

 

This is a great idea and I am going to do this when the interior is all apart - the hydraulic lines went bye bye.

WhiteXKR: Did you wind up selling those switches,etc? If not I would love to take them off your hands for $10. Please let me know!

 

Also it won't let me download the pdf... My account is activated.. any ideas why?

Thanks again for sharing this with the community. It would have been helpful for me to have done that today instead of manually pulling the rams up, etc.. since my convertible is out.

 

mebnvo, you will need 10 posts before you can access any attachments. Welcome some new members and you'll be there in no time

 

4-9-2010 UPDATE: Part I and Part II of the write-up each require 4 .250" Quick connect terminals for the standard relay connections (total of 8).

This was inadvertently omitted from the parts lists.

An assortment of 18-22 ga. (red) and 14-16 ga. (blue) terminals is recommended as size needed depends on the wire gauge you use.




(Note for mbenvo: It was Rev. Sam selling the switches, not me )

 

I'm sorry, but K.Westra is incorrect and he was trying to mislead you. The only way to gain access to that PDF is to go to the "Girls on Cars" thread and post some pictures of girls on cars. Generic pics that you find on the internet are acceptable, but you can get access faster if you actually post some tasteful pics of your wife or girlfriend on your Jag.

 

Great write up! This is a great thread, it has been fun following Sam's initiating the topic and exploration and then your taking the idea to the next level! I love it... this is why this forum is so valuable! I will be tucking your write up away for future reference as my next Jag will be an XKR `vert so I will definately be doing this mod then.

 

I completed Reverend Sam's simple switch installation last night, took about 15 minutes after watching his video. Thanks Rev., both for the video and the switch!! Although after seeing the actual postage amount, I think you got to me for 30 or 40 cents!!!

Has anyone else noticed how poorly the front and rear windows line up without the convertible top up to align them properly?

Both of my rear windows are about 1/4" more inward than the fronts. I think there is a topic on this in the stickies, I'll have to look. Tonight I'll have to put the top up and see which windows need adjusting, front or rear.

I think it will help quiet down the ride even more!!

 

LOL! C'mon! The switch cost money! Those little connectors cost money, too. And what about my time? I should report you guys to the Department of Labor for paying me less than minimum wage! You got a deal at $10. Oh! and then there's the line at the post office! Suffering through that was terrible.

 

I haven't done this mod yet (actually I haven't even order the parts yet) but I was driving with the top down and the windows up today with a fairly strong breeze (it's always blowing around here) and the backs of the front windows were vibrating pretty good. I'm curious if the reason Jaguar didn't do this is that they didn't want the front and rear windows bouncing off of each other and possibly causing damage. So I guess I'm curious to those that have done this, do the windows vibrate in harmony, do they bounce off of each other, or hasn't anyone been out in a strong wind yet?

 

Rev -- Of course I was kidding!! You've gotta be pulling in a few cents an hour if you figure in the time behind the monitor and the camera, much less the dreaded postage fiasco! My parents do a lot of e-bay selling and they have the mailman drop off supplies, pick up packages and print their own postage on the printer. Thanks again, it was so easy it wasn't even funny and it's a great mod!!!

Keith -- I didn't notice the vibrations, but will watch for it and report back. Of course, mine aren't even touching each other yet, so I'll have to wait until I adjust the rears... I think between the rubber strip between them acting as a cushion, and the triangular shape of the quarter windows, it might actually help the issue!!??

 

I agree with silverstone. I haven't notice any vibrating, and I would think the short, stubby little rear windows would be stiffer than the front windows and help reduce any vibrations.

By the way, it's been VERY windy around here lately.