HOW TO: Repaint door molding trim FAQ
#1
HOW TO: Repaint door molding trim FAQ
A while back the door molding trim on my car started to peel. It quickly got worse until it reached this state:
After doing some research I discovered the proper paint to repair this is Dorchester Grey 342/LDP, but WhiteXKR suggested another alternative, Graphite Duplicolor Wheel Paint:
Buy Duplicolor Wheel Coating, Graphite, 11 oz. Aerosol HWP102 at Advance Auto Parts
I thought I'd save a little bit and try it out.
Here are the steps I took to respray this area.
Step 1:
Although these pieces can be removed, I found it easier to leave them in place. This meant everything had to be masked off:
Step 2:
Carefully sand as much of the existing paint off as possible, using sand paper designed for use on metal. You shouldn't need anything too aggressive, I used 200 grit and probably could have used something less aggressive.
Once you finish sanding, clean the area with some isopropyl alcohol.
Step 3:
If you are using the actual Dorchester Gray, you will need to treat the aluminum with a self-etching primer. An advantage to the Duplicolor wheel paint is it is designed to work on unprimed aluminum, so I didn't need to prime. Give the area a few nice, light coats of paint allowing about 10 minutes between each coat.
Here is after one light coat:
Step 4:
Next up is the clear coat. After giving the last coat of paint 10 minutes to dry, give the area a few light coats of clear, with 10 minutes of dry time in between.
Step 5:
After the final coat has been given time to dry (but not too long) carefully remove the masking and enjoy.
As WhiteXKR said, the shade of gray is very close, but the metallic flakes are larger (and reflect the sun a little bit more as a result) It is tough to see in the picture, but the door has been resprayed and the rear window trim has not. I may go back and spray the rear window trim, simply because it is a bit noticeable when they are placed side by side. For under $20, I believe the two cans of Duplicolor is the best route.
After doing some research I discovered the proper paint to repair this is Dorchester Grey 342/LDP, but WhiteXKR suggested another alternative, Graphite Duplicolor Wheel Paint:
Buy Duplicolor Wheel Coating, Graphite, 11 oz. Aerosol HWP102 at Advance Auto Parts
I thought I'd save a little bit and try it out.
Here are the steps I took to respray this area.
Step 1:
Although these pieces can be removed, I found it easier to leave them in place. This meant everything had to be masked off:
Step 2:
Carefully sand as much of the existing paint off as possible, using sand paper designed for use on metal. You shouldn't need anything too aggressive, I used 200 grit and probably could have used something less aggressive.
Once you finish sanding, clean the area with some isopropyl alcohol.
Step 3:
If you are using the actual Dorchester Gray, you will need to treat the aluminum with a self-etching primer. An advantage to the Duplicolor wheel paint is it is designed to work on unprimed aluminum, so I didn't need to prime. Give the area a few nice, light coats of paint allowing about 10 minutes between each coat.
Here is after one light coat:
Step 4:
Next up is the clear coat. After giving the last coat of paint 10 minutes to dry, give the area a few light coats of clear, with 10 minutes of dry time in between.
Step 5:
After the final coat has been given time to dry (but not too long) carefully remove the masking and enjoy.
As WhiteXKR said, the shade of gray is very close, but the metallic flakes are larger (and reflect the sun a little bit more as a result) It is tough to see in the picture, but the door has been resprayed and the rear window trim has not. I may go back and spray the rear window trim, simply because it is a bit noticeable when they are placed side by side. For under $20, I believe the two cans of Duplicolor is the best route.
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Nelsonsson (04-07-2015)
#7
Really?!? That would have made it so much easier. I did a bit of searching and all I found is that they were difficult to remove and easy to damage in the process. Do you just pull upward?
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Gordo (06-03-2011)
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#8
Keith I copied this from the JTIS
Remove door mirror. Refer to 76.10.52.
Exercising care to avoid damaging paintwork, lift and release waist rail moulding from door flange.
The rear window molding lifts off
I don't think you have to remove the mirror. I will check tonight, when I get home. I think you lift up on the molding on the back side of the door, and pull the molding from under the mirror.
I'll let you know later.
Remove door mirror. Refer to 76.10.52.
Exercising care to avoid damaging paintwork, lift and release waist rail moulding from door flange.
The rear window molding lifts off
I don't think you have to remove the mirror. I will check tonight, when I get home. I think you lift up on the molding on the back side of the door, and pull the molding from under the mirror.
I'll let you know later.
Last edited by RCSign; 06-01-2011 at 12:29 PM.
#9
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Keith I went home and removed the window molding and re-installed in less than 30 seconds. the window molding only goes under the mirror rubber by about 1/4" It fits the spot welded seam at the top of door.
Lift up on the molding on the back side of the door, and pull the molding from under the mirror seal.
To re-install lift the mirror seal and insert under, and press down on. try the back window first and it'll give you an idea of how it attaches.
Lift up on the molding on the back side of the door, and pull the molding from under the mirror seal.
To re-install lift the mirror seal and insert under, and press down on. try the back window first and it'll give you an idea of how it attaches.
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volkris (01-20-2019)
#13
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#18
Hmm, on my 2002 XKR Convertible the trim is a metallic silver/gray. They same as the trim around the windshield and the base of the mirrors.
Mine was bubbling up on one side, so I had it repainted at a local shop. Worth the few bucks it cost. I had two trim pieces and both mirrors repainted for under $100.
Mine was bubbling up on one side, so I had it repainted at a local shop. Worth the few bucks it cost. I had two trim pieces and both mirrors repainted for under $100.
Last edited by JeffereyGreen; 06-04-2011 at 03:43 PM. Reason: Edit
#19
I had a go at this last year. The paint on my trim was bubbling badly, apparently because Jaguar failed to use "etch primer" on the bare metal.
So I diligently rubbed down, etch primed, pt on base coat (rubbing down all the time) but no matter what I did I couldn't get a smooth top coat, and by the time I added the clear lacquer it just looked mottled and very much like a DIY job. I spent hours and hours on it. So I gave up half way through and now don't know what to do.
I was rather hoping I could find a pro to do it but I dare say I could probably buy new for what they would charge - which would probably be hundreds of £ or $.
So I diligently rubbed down, etch primed, pt on base coat (rubbing down all the time) but no matter what I did I couldn't get a smooth top coat, and by the time I added the clear lacquer it just looked mottled and very much like a DIY job. I spent hours and hours on it. So I gave up half way through and now don't know what to do.
I was rather hoping I could find a pro to do it but I dare say I could probably buy new for what they would charge - which would probably be hundreds of £ or $.
#20
I had a go at this last year. The paint on my trim was bubbling badly, apparently because Jaguar failed to use "etch primer" on the bare metal.
So I diligently rubbed down, etch primed, pt on base coat (rubbing down all the time) but no matter what I did I couldn't get a smooth top coat, and by the time I added the clear lacquer it just looked mottled and very much like a DIY job. I spent hours and hours on it. So I gave up half way through and now don't know what to do.
I was rather hoping I could find a pro to do it but I dare say I could probably buy new for what they would charge - which would probably be hundreds of £ or $.
So I diligently rubbed down, etch primed, pt on base coat (rubbing down all the time) but no matter what I did I couldn't get a smooth top coat, and by the time I added the clear lacquer it just looked mottled and very much like a DIY job. I spent hours and hours on it. So I gave up half way through and now don't know what to do.
I was rather hoping I could find a pro to do it but I dare say I could probably buy new for what they would charge - which would probably be hundreds of £ or $.