I am just topping off til sometime next week when I figure out what it all needs to take it somewhere and get everything done at once.

Is just plain distilled water a good option as well? I am in the Chicago area and it is getting cold out if that matters?

I drove the car for about 50 miles and the "low coolant" light just went on the other day - it is probably three inches below the cap?

 

Topping off one time with a few oz. of distilled water is a good option. A few oz. will not signifiantly affect the anti-freeze properties.

 

For piece of mind, you can get an antifreeze tester. They are just a couple of dollars at most auto supply stores. Basically they are like a big eye dropper with ***** that float at different mixtures. You read the floating ***** to tell how low the coolant protects. I will say the low coolant light seems to be pretty touchy and i end up adding just a little bit of mixed coolant every summer (maybe a cup worth)

 

Many national auto parts stores are just carrying a couple of antifreezes. Don't believe them when they say an antifreeze will work in all vehicles.

Valvoline makes the yellow antifreeze you're looking for, and it's Zerex G-05. My local O'Reilly's orders it for a fleet user of Ford Powerstroke diesels, and they keep it in the back of the store. My 99 XK8 also uses yellow, but some later model Jags use a different antifreeze.

It's important that you find a couple of indy repair shops in your city--if you're not a semi-experienced shade tree mechanic. I have a local shop that recently changed my fuel pump (2.7 hrs @ $50), and they're great on brakes and other maintenance jobs like water pumps and thermostat housing replacement. Brake repairs on a Jag are not exotic, unless they have the optional Brembo brakes.

More troublesome or complicated problem OBD codes, like a CAN/BUS code or ABS codes, may require someone with real Jag dealership experience that has an Autoenginuity OBDII scanner--and the knowledge to use it. Unfortunately, complicated diagnosis are now difficult, as many modules depend on each other and the mechanical parts' condition is also mixed in.

It's also important to locate good sources of parts. In the case of secondary tensioners, Tousley Ford sells Lincoln LS/Thunderbird parts and bolts (in a Jag box), and they're the cheapest around. Like has been said, the Lincoln valve cover gasket kit is different from your A26 engine, however. Many use Nalley Jag in Atlanta for OEM Jag parts.

There are approximately 17 electronic modules on these cars, and they're all ungodly expensive. There are a number of electronic repair shops that can fix most any module. Not so many can rebuild a throttle body, however. I use a shop in Rogersville, TN that's great.

Replacing secondary tensioners is not so difficult a job--the second time you do it.
Make sure you really understand what the job entails, pull the valve covers and see the old tensioners with your eyes before you order any parts. This job is well documented in this forum.

Good luck!

 

Hey thanks guys for all the help.

Does anyone know about those two plastic engine pieces I referenced on how hard they are to get off and put on?

Also what about that piece of wood grain all the way to the left, on the dash, on the passenger size?

I have a few panels on the drivers seat that also has to be fixed ( common wear area ) anyone know what it will cost to replace "one" panel and maybe the side that sits next to the drivers side door?

Thanks!

I am also looking for a tech or someone very knowledgable about the xk8's who can do a full check on my car and tensioners to see what it needs - thanks!

 

The plastic covers are called bulkhead covers and run about $35 new list each at the dealer. Part numbers are:

Right, NJE3978AC

Left , NJE3979AC

You probably can get them cheaper used. They just slide into place...very easy.

The wood is a color and grain matched set, so repairing rather than replacing it may be a better option. Check out www.britishautowood.com.

Not sure what you man by seat panels. Leather panels or plastic panels? If the leather color is just worn, the seat can be redyed...no need to replace.

 

Ok thanks! And I meant the actual leather seat, the typical wear spot panel needs to be replaced and there is a small hole on the actual side of the seat, next to the drivers side door, can't figure out how to post a picture from my computer to show it.

Any idea on what the cost would be to get the seats redyed? This will make the cracks go away or just cover the color difference?

Thanks!

 

I did a search on all of the headlight threads on here and looked up some videos - and I only saw posts/videos with how to replace the main headlights, if I need to change out one of each light in the headlight is that all just as easy as replacing the main light? Going thru the panel in front of the front tires?

What about the fog lights?

Also if I wanted to replace each of the four lights on each side, is there recommended model numbers? HID? 6000K?

Thanks!

 

Wonder if you have a small leak where the main coolant line attaches to the engine. I'm told these male connectors are plastic and tend to crack. Mine was replaced just before I bought it. I've also found a tiny leak where hose meets resovoir. It made my light come on every three days or so. Simple fix.