Gordo this is on page 8 of TSB 501-11 and you can find it on my page and in the FAQ area of this forum. I have not removed the entire header to check the 3 switches but after looking at what appears to be the same type switch that was in the door latch. I elected to use the WD40 to loosen up the pivot point of the fulcrum for the switch located at the latch and it worked for me. I will look into it further if it becomes a problem again but today is it was a fix that worked. I have been short on time but I will try to get something posted with additional photos on my page.

 

There is no warning displayed in instrument pack. So I guess the fault must be a "Short Circuit in Top Latch Closed Switch".

Am I correct interpreting the term 'short circuit' to mean 'failure to open'. Not a short like we think of the term, e.g., a shunt.

 

You are correct.

 

I am beginning to think that the micro switches are beginning to fail and that is part of the misoperations on the roof and the doors. Not entirely sure that they are the same switch but they look near the same to me. I need to dig into it (dissect) and see only my system is working well now. If it begins to operate improperly again I will begin checking and report back.

 

This is an update on the roof problem. The way I see it is that the roof rams will not operate until the roof latch is satisfied that the roof latch is open and cleared. http://www.gusglikas.com/images/Auto...atchRepair.pdf I hope this helps!

 

Hey guys--the final update is that the dealer had the failed pump for quite a while and it sounds like they were willing to let me have it. Then just a couple of days ago Jaguar asked for the part to be sent to them. Oh well.

On a tangential note (maybe should be posted at the "resistor" thread), but at the risk of being sacrilegious, since the price of the resistor solution is so cheap I was wondering how this would work out IN CONJUNCTION WITH the LSI valve. If I had to choose only a single solution, I would definitely opt for the LSI valve (which I have for quite some time now). However, perhaps the resistor installed along with the LSI valve would provide even more protection. Walt? Gus?

Doug

 

The only reason to put the resistor in is if you want the roof to operate slower. The pressure readings that were given for that are fiction as the mechanical gauge that was used is incapable of responding to the short pressure spikes. Take a close look at data point "A" which is the pressure unmodified. That tells the entire story.

Your motor failure is probably the result of many reps of running dead head as that really loads the motor and the resistor thing does not resolve that problem. Multiple bad things happen when you take a motor close to stalled. Mostly it damages the brushes and commutator due to the slow transition between poles. People have grabbed onto the resistor because it is cheap. The fact that the pressures are BS is lost in the desire to save money.

Nothing will ever take this rube goldberg contraption to the point of not failing so regardless of what you do, there will be issues.

 

Well said and understood. There seems to have been a tacit endorsement of the resistor method on this and other forums by virtue of moderators allowing (marginally substantiated) data and testing and by the "inventors" labeling those that criticize the system as lacking foresight and know-how.

All I know is that you and Gus worked on this problem for months and went to great lengths to support your conclusions. Then along comes this "magic fix" and it is almost universally accepted without the type of rigorous work that you both did.

Doug

 

Gus and I collaborated to help solve a nasty problem. I made the solution available to others because I knew that it would be really difficult for people to put that together on their own. I did that with the knowledge that it was something I could stand behind.

These forums are all about people saving money on car maintenance so its no big surprise that the lure of doing something on the cheap is appealing. "If it looks too good to be true" has never been more apparent and it is always amazing how the people who think they are the smartest fall the hardest. I think super glue for tensioner plastic and rubber bands for ABS wires are next.

 

Saw this old thread the other day. Same thing happened to me recently. Fortunately my 2003 XKR was covered by an extended warranty (Easy Care) which expired about a month after I took it in. The dealer said the repair was $5,000!!!! but covered by the warranty. But in addition to the deductible they charged me $600 for diagnosis time that the warranty company won't cover. I don't know whether to just be happy the repair was covered by the warranty or to be p.o.'d about the diagnosis time - especially in light of the comments on this thread.

When I went in I specifically told them about the fuse as I'd tried replacing it and it had instantly blown - same as the O.P. to this thread. I wish I'd found this thread first - but didn't bother doing much research as I figured it would all be covered by the warranty.

 

Hey Larry--it is good to know that aftermarket warranties will cover this issue since I bought one from my credit union (a Platimum warranty that claims to be all-inclusive).

However, the dealer that claimed the fix was $5,000 must have been pulling a fast one and/or he was figuring in both the pump replacement and the hose replacement (either one of these along is maybe $2,000).

When my pump failed I did a bit of independent searching around and these were always about $2,000 just for the part!! You would think they were made out of platimum.

Doug

 

Well, I probably would have pulled the car from the dealer service if it had been out of warranty and they quoted me the $5,600. That price seems just crazy to me. But I left it there because it was under the warranty they'd sold me years ago - and I doubt they were scamming on the repair as the warranty company came out and inspected to make sure the repair was needed (I guess this is common for larger cost repairs). Although, I'm still not sure if I might have been scammed on the extra diagnostic fees.