Was under my 2001 XKR 53K today and noticed the driver side engine mount is leaking lots of purple fluid.

Can someone give me a detailed write up re replacing them (DIY)? I have the JITS for this but can I jack the engine up and what do I need to remove re steering rack.

My guess is quite a few of us will need to do this job in the near future as at 10yrs they tend to fail through age.

Thanks for any help

Simon

 

Count me in as well for info on this job as I learned mine are failing at my post-sale eval, don't ask...

 

Me too, on the driver's side (left).

It seems I read somewhere that the driver's side mount was always the one to puke first...not sure why that would be. I'd love some information on a DIY mount replacement.

 

You have to remove the air intake from the throttle body. Take off the 13mm nuts off the top of the mounts. Go underneath and unbolt the either 13mm bolts or torx (t50) depending on model and yr. Yes on the drivers side mount you need to drop the steering rack. You dont have to remove from the car, only unbolt the 10mm pinch bolt on the top of the rack to steering column and the 3 bolts holding the rack to the frame and let it hang. Remember to mark this first or the steering wheel will be off center when youre done, and to unclip the electrical connector. Jack up the unbolted engine about high enough to gewt a 4x4 between the engine and frame. You need to get as high as possible to get out the drivers mounts its a pia. The pass is super easy and doesnt require dropping the rack. If this is too much keep in mind the shop time is about .5 pass side and 1,5 driver 2.0 for both.
I do have a single mount for first come first serve oem new in box for $75 shipped, sorry i only have 1 pm for info(SOLD, that was fast)

 

great info Brutal, i'll link the thread with those instructions to the FAQ, its the first time I've seen the process outlined step by step.

 

Will let you guys know how it goes as I'm going to change the driver side one over Xmas !!!


Simon

 

Just checked my old receipts. $804 (parts and labor) for replacement of both motor mounts at dealer. Jack

 

OK tried to change the drivers side engine mount on a 2001 XKR all I can say is dont bother this job is a F**king PIA ala Fuel pump change!!!

OK update to Brutals post
1/ 4 bolts that hold the steering rack in place not 3, on my car all 13mm fairly easy to undo.
2/ The bolts holding the mount to the sub frame, bottoms ones are 13mm on a 2001 XKR easy to undo. The top nuts are 15mm passenger side easy to undo, drivers side well see below!!!
3/ The steering column has two 10mm bolts the top one is the one you need to undo which is quite easy but once done separating the column from that end of the universal joint will be near dam impossible as mine was rusty from all the fluids that leak from above over the years (the jag designer decided it would be good idea to get every water/cooling pipe in the car to meet up there, then make joints that will leak over time) WD40 didnt help. So its easier to undo and remove the bottom one and then use a screw driver to gently prize of the joint from the steering column. Remember to mark it and before you start the job engage steering lock with wheels facing straight forward.

Ok thats as far as I got
Problem how do you undo the 15mm nut on top of the engine mount driver side. I tried for 4hrs I have every length and angle 1/4 ratchet there is. From above you can get a socket on the nut but you have maybe 2 inches by 6in long area to play in, its just not enough room to turn with one hand. I also tried from below same problem just no room.

Brutal how did you do this ???? Also once I have the nuts off, I'm not sure when u jack the engine up its actually going to move without ripping all the water/a/c/oil hoses off the engine. Engine must be raise at least 2.5 inches to get the mount out from between the bracket and sub frame.

ny help would be appriciated.

Thanks
Simon

 

Lord.

We're with you, brother. Keep us updated...you will prevail.

 

copied my pm to you
Yeah Simon, the directions are kinda generic since like the XK does have 4 bolts into aluminum, others liek Stype have 3. Youll need to remove the air intake from the throttle body, you wont damage pull off anything else because the exhaust will hit the underbody first. Thats the point you shoot for and thats as high as it will go. On the nuts ontop of the mounts. I use a offset ratchet with a long extension from the top and another rachet. Or you can use a stubby box end wrench and a pry bar. A gear wrench is nice and work too. Useally I pop the top of the broken mount off and take it out in 2 pieces to be easy. Now believe it or not, cars have alot of differant clearances/tolerances. Useally I can force the new mount in past the rack while pulling it down and out of the way. Trust me its ALOT easier standing under the car on a lift. But even then its a 2hr shop charge. let me know if you have any onther problems. Yes its a PIA. but look at it this way. youre saving about $200-300

 

this is what I use, yes expensive, but I do alot of these, try my other recomendations they work too just not as easy.
FZ936A, Ratchet, Head, Standard, Multi-Purpose, 3 1/16"

 

OK I got the nut undone yesterday WD40 then I took the car for a drive to get it nice and hot. Now there is an eliptical hole in the sub-frame below the dip stick that has a small whole (1/2 maybe) all the way through. I used that as a fulcrum point got a 3/4 extension bar 6inch (female end in the hole) with my trolley jack bar over the end which can then be used to lever the end of the 3/4 6inch ratchet. Remember you are pulling towards the drivers side wheel. I used my left hand to hold the ratchet and right to lever. Worked fine and no special tools.

Don't ever be tempted to use the rocker cover as fulcrum as its made of plastic and will crack!!

Will try New Years day to get the engine mount out !! getting closer

 

Ok all done not to bad once I got that nut undone see my post "Engine Mounts how to" for detailed write up

 

Thought I add my two cents here: The 15 mm bolt holding the mount to the bracket is very difficult to break free. My mounts were toast and in two pieces.

Note that the cross member has been removed for this option to work....

I could get a 6 inch 3/8 ratchet w/15mm socket onto the top of the bolt. But I could not break it free; and there was not enough room to get a longer handle (pipe over ratchet).

So I used a crow bar to leverage the ratchet. One hand holding the ratchet onto the bolt, the other levering the ratchet... usually against some part of the exhaust manifold. Once the bolt broke free, the mount just spun off the nut (w/ ratchet still on top).

Hope this helps somebody who was stuck like me.

 

Brutal mentioned a specialty ratchet head. It's about $80.

However, Snap-On also sells a close relative. It is a 15mm ratcheting flare nut 3/8" drive.

BFCRM 15A .... about $18. Not as versatile as it is a single size. But, exactly right for the job and the price is certainly affordable.

 

Went to Harbor Freight and bought a $6 3/8" ratchet and cut the handle down so it is now about 6" and used a pry bar on the stubby handle. Worked just fine. Cheap fix thanks to the Chinese.

 

So I have the easy right side to do and reading your posts makes me think I need to buy more tools for the Jaguar work. I went to Harbor Freight to look since I don't do this for a living. How about this one, and of course they have another 3 or 4 I want now.
T-Bar with 3/8" Flexible Ratchet
Its all the tools you need to be able to get your hands greasy that makes this so much fun.

 

Guys, thanks for all the great advise and direction. Concerning the TOP MOUNT NUT ...I found one additional tool to help. Those odd socket sets that Lowe's sells Cobalt brand. Rather than the conventional 3/8 driver they are a hex drive socket designed to allow the bolt to come thru the ratchet and socket. These are much shorter than a standard socket and ratchet. This will allow you to get on top of the nut and work the nut off the top of the mounts, Also a 12-15 inch long piece of 1/2 emt conduit works great as a cheater bar/pipe for this ratchet. It slips over the handle snug without much loss of movement in that tight space.

 

It looks like I need to remove that x brace under the engine to drop the steering rack. Is that correct??

Where is the lift point for the engine?

thanks

 

The lift point on the engine is at the very front. It is those 2 cast lift points the factory was kind enough to give us.

I was able to complete the job using an impact for the bolts through the subframe, and combination wrenches to unbolt the top of the mounts. I did not need to unbolt the steering rack. I just moved the engine to one side with a pry bar, when doing the driver's side. I lifted the engine until it would not come up any higher, and maneuvered the mounts into position.

I did have to remove the power steering reservoir from it's mount, drained the radiator, and removed the hoses from the radiator, and unclipped the AC line from behind of the radiator. It was a little time consuming, but not really as much work as undoing the steering rack from the shaft. I just unbolted the steering pump, so as not to put a strain on the lines. I also put a new belt on, since everything was exposed. The new mounts fall right back into the indentations, and bolted in easily. This is how I did it. Hope this helps..........Mike