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  #21  
Old 01-02-2017, 05:03 PM
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JimmyL,
Just lost a complete history of what I've done so far, but basically it all boils down to this:

Swapped coils around (twice), replaced plugs, replaced fuel filter, replaced all injectors, checked all related fuses. Am now wading thru the Jaguar repair manual--(About six inches thick) trying to find something on the relays-- and on and on.

The codes I'm now getting are:
PO303 (Generic) Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected
P1316 (Jaguar) Misfire rate Exceeds Emissions
And of course; P1000 OBD Systems Readiness Test Not Complete

Some times it sits there and runs smooth, then after a minute or so-- Pop Pop the mis returns.

Oh yes--forgot. Did a compression check on cyl 3 this morning on a cold engine--had the fuel module and pump fuse pulled so I could change filter. Compression was right at 130. I think that's excellent.

Cheers
 

Last edited by Chuck Schexnayder; 01-02-2017 at 05:12 PM.
  #22  
Old 01-03-2017, 01:19 AM
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So I suppose you know there's a fault with (the power from) cyl 3 but so far haven't figured a fix. Usually a coil but everything to do with fuel/air/burn/etc is suspect.

Maybe the freeze frame data can help.

I'd also watch fuel trims under various conditions, especially like the freeze frame data, looking hard for clues.

Just a thought but sometimes people figure which is #3 wrongly...
 
  #23  
Old 01-03-2017, 09:59 AM
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I thought of the cylinder numbering also. It changed in 2002.5 and according to a diagram I am looking at cylinder 3 should be the second one back from the front on the left bank - if you are standing in front of the car looking back. You probably know that.
 
  #24  
Old 01-03-2017, 09:59 PM
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Jagv8,
Until today, I didn't have a reader that would display fuel trims and I'm afraid I don't really know what I'm looking at. My new reader displays an active graph of the fuel trims but what I'm looking at is just that, a live graph, with the base line (??) moving up and down the scale.
Any help would be appreciated.

Chuck
 
  #25  
Old 01-04-2017, 06:02 AM
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E.g. elm327 but you're going to need time and effort - start by reading about trims on this site and the net. Also read about freeze frame data. You appear to have an unusual problem that's liable to need much more effort than usual.
 
  #26  
Old 01-04-2017, 09:41 PM
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JagV8,
Yeah, a lot of learning ahead to understand everything I need to know, but what little I have been able to gather is if one is way off the charts from the others, that's not good.

Some other info on the engine, see if you can determine anything from these: Engine running at normal operating Temp.

MAF(LB/M) 4.16---MAP ("HG) 21.0----IAT (*F) 81----IGN ADV (*) 28.O----ST FTRM1 (%) 3.1---ST FTRM2 (%) -1.6----LT FTRM1 (%) 7.0---LT FTRM2 (%) -1.6---FUEL PRES (PSI) 55----FUEL SYS 1 CLSD-----FUEL SYS 2 CLSD---02S12 (V) 0.105----ST FTRM12 (%) -1.6----02S22 (V) 0.770----ST FTRM22(%) 0.8...

I know that's a lot of information to pass on, but hopefully you can get some meaning out of it. Others may want to chime in, so welcome.

On the LT FTRM1 7.0, ----on the live graph I've seen it as high as 14.2 and as low as 6.3. Base line jumping from one extreme to the other.

Thanks in advance....Cheers
 

Last edited by Chuck Schexnayder; 01-04-2017 at 09:57 PM.
  #27  
Old 01-07-2017, 10:13 AM
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Guess I lost JAGV8, must have been an information overload
 
  #28  
Old 01-07-2017, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Chuck Schexnayder
a lot of learning ahead to understand everything I need to know
You need to search this forum and locate a couple of write-ups by one of our resident mechanics regarding fuel trims. It will clarify that fuel trims are actually best understood when represented as the height of a "3D" graph, where the bottom surface is RPM and Engine Load. In other words, Fuel Trims are not a single number, but typically vary both by RPM and Load. You can clearly see this with a scan tool as you move through a range of rpm.

Best of luck, keep us posted.
 
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  #29  
Old 01-07-2017, 11:29 AM
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  #30  
Old 01-07-2017, 04:25 PM
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Gus,
What a great write by Steve. Easy to understand and hopefully I will be able to put it to good use.

Use to stay in touch with Steve for sometime, but since JofNA changed their forum, I lost interest in it and contact with Steve. Should get back in touch with him.

Thank you.
Chuck
 
  #31  
Old 01-07-2017, 04:32 PM
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He is a great guy and a great friend. I am sure he would love to hear from you.

Gus
www.jagrepair.com
 
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  #32  
Old 01-08-2017, 10:38 PM
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Gus,
Would you be so kind to PM me with Steves email address. Must have deleted it when I closed out the JNA page.

Chuck
 
  #33  
Old 01-09-2017, 01:52 PM
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Gus,
Checking "Camshaft Sensor" for possible mis-fire problem and the electrical connector has me baffled. Is there a way to release this connector? I've slid the little RED slider which looks like it releases the power end, but no success.

Help appreciated..

Chuck
 
  #34  
Old 01-09-2017, 02:38 PM
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Gus: Disregard last---got it!

Chuck
 
  #35  
Old 01-09-2017, 02:51 PM
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Looking back on your problem you indicated you replaced the injectors and you moved the coilpacks around but you did nothing with the plugs. One problem #4 was fixed but the other #3 is not. I recently had #4 misfire and fixed it by adding BG44K and all is good. An easy fix for what could be an expensive and time consuming fix and that is why I recommend it first.

I would suggest that you replace that or all plugs and see what takes place. If it were the cam shaft sensor it would be random and I do not believe that is the situation. The spark plug however, could be failing because of heat or load so try the easy things first change the plug or plugs.
 
  #36  
Old 01-09-2017, 02:52 PM
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I was typing

Originally Posted by Chuck Schexnayder
Gus: Disregard last---got it!

Chuck
 
  #37  
Old 01-09-2017, 06:35 PM
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Gus:
Changed the plugs about the time I did the injectors---NGK Laser Iridium----didn't change a thing, except my frame of mind.

I'm trying the camshaft sensor because I watched a Tech Video lesson plan where the instructor said the ECM or PCM get's its firing info from the Crankshaft and camshaft sensors--the camshaft sensor saying when the cy is ready to fire. But who knows, I feel like your Insanity comment above by old Albert. ;-))

If all this is malarkey, I'm open to suggestions.....

Chuck
 
  #38  
Old 01-09-2017, 07:00 PM
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OK! what you need to do is look at the top valve cover bolt at the cam sensor. If that bolt has been changed it will cause problems. It is my understanding that that bolt is made of a different material and if it is changed it will interfere with the signal the cam sensor is getting. This is a link to my valve cover change and it shows the bolt.

Link JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

I would still swap that plug to be sure.
 
  #39  
Old 01-09-2017, 10:43 PM
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Gus:
Will do on the plug--as U said--just to be sure.

Thanks for the picture of the bolt and related site--good pictures. I doubt it could be the bolt-- for the engine ran fine for 94K miles. but will also check that out. will keep you posted on my progress...

BTW: Contact with Steve today. Thanks.

Chuck
 
  #40  
Old 01-12-2017, 08:10 PM
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Any luck?
 



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