XK8 / XKR ( X100 ) 1996 - 2006
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Restricted Performance

  #1  
Old 12-20-2016, 12:43 AM
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Default Restricted Performance

Driving home last night in my XK8//2005, I suddenly get a Restricted Performance warning and the engine begans to mlss. I pull over when I can, turn off the engine, wait a few minutes,start backup, still have the warning and miss, but now have a pulsating engine light. (on off--on off)
I have had engine lights before, but never pulsating. So now I have the warning, the miss and the pulsating engine light.
Any ideas would be appreciated.

Cheers
 

Last edited by Chuck Schexnayder; 12-20-2016 at 10:04 AM. Reason: Change flashing to pulsating
  #2  
Old 12-20-2016, 02:50 AM
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First get a code reader, then you may have a chance. I resolved mine which was due to cracks in the intake snorkel, part and full load breathers, yours may be different?
 
  #3  
Old 12-20-2016, 06:53 AM
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Flashing MIL tends to mean cat conv damage being done (you failed to put in your car details) so don't drive it at all unless you absolutely must as cats are costly.
 
  #4  
Old 12-20-2016, 11:21 AM
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+1 on getting the codes read. If you don't have an obdII scanner then head out to the nearest auto parts store that can read them. Don't go by the generic definitions of the codes. Ask for the specific numbers and post them here so we can help you sort it out. Jag code numbers don't always match the generic ones.

+1 on don't drive it anymore than you have to with a flashing engine light. It is creating conditions that can severely damage the cats.
 
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  #5  
Old 12-20-2016, 12:37 PM
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JagV8,
Am trying to get the codes, but for the life of me, I can-not fine the receptacle under the drivers side of the dash for the code readers cable. It's a snap on the XJ8, but it's not on the XK8.

Anyone with an 05 XK8 like to chime in, welcome....

Update: Started the car this morning after checking all the vital fluids and it ran fine----for a minute or so, then (I think) I heard a "click"--as if a relay set or reset, and the miss returned. ??????

Cheers
 
  #6  
Old 12-20-2016, 12:42 PM
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AVERN1,

Thanks for the advice, but right now, can't find the darn plug for the code cable. Will advise.

Chuck
 
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Old 12-20-2016, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Chuck Schexnayder
right now, can't find the darn plug for the code cable.
It is right above the handle to pop the hood open.
 
  #8  
Old 12-20-2016, 03:03 PM
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fmertz,
Whats the old saying? "Had it been a snake---------"

As soon as I read your note, I remembered...........

Thanks...

Chuck
 
  #9  
Old 12-20-2016, 03:18 PM
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avern1 and All

Ok. The codes are: P0203 injector circuit/open---cyl#3
P0300 Random misfire detected
P0303 Cyl #3 Misfire detected
P0304 Cyl #4 Misfire detected
P1316 Misfire rate exceeds emissions

So, what next? Does the injector circuit/open mean a new injector is needed, or is there a relay or fuse bad?
Note After getting the codes, I erased the engine light--and I assumed the codes---, started the car, it ran fine until the RPMs started dropping down to 1000 and the misfire came back.

Chuck
 

Last edited by Chuck Schexnayder; 12-20-2016 at 03:26 PM.
  #10  
Old 12-20-2016, 03:37 PM
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At least pull the related coils and peer in looking for oil/water/etc in the plug wells.

If some, fix.

If none, either move those coils to other cyls and see if the codes move or just put some known good ones in.
 
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Old 12-20-2016, 11:38 PM
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JagV8,
Pulled the coils on noted cyl's and no oil or water. Relocated to a different cyl, no change, still get the "injector circuit open cyl #3". Now what?

Tomorrow I'll pull the plug and see what it looks like.

Cheers
 
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Old 12-21-2016, 03:49 AM
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What about #4?

Check inj #3 circuit - see JTIS.
 
  #13  
Old 12-25-2016, 10:44 AM
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JagV8--
Sorry for the delay---------Code for #4 not showing up any longer.
With all Jags, a low Btry causes a lot of problems, so removed it from the car, put it on a slow charge for a day and it read 13++, so re-installed it in car, same problem with #3 cyl code.....and miss.
Still trying to fig things out.......
BTW, Happy Holidays...

Chuck
 
  #14  
Old 12-26-2016, 09:02 AM
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Workshop manual should have pinpoint tests for wiring etc. Some may be brittle due to heat & age...
 
  #15  
Old 12-29-2016, 09:07 PM
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All:
Solved the problem. Purchased a set of remanufactured injectors from an online dealer on EBay. Purchased them on the 27th, received them on the 29th at 1:30--free. Amazing!

After testing the ones in the car, found one dead and since the mileage on the car is at 97k, figured that another would soon follow, so went the replace all option. Car now purrs like a real cat should.

Thanks to all who offered suggestions and help. Funny no one ever mentioned injectors....

Cheers and Happy New Years to all.......
 
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  #16  
Old 12-30-2016, 05:33 AM
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Well done. They so rarely cause problems, let alone die.
 
  #17  
Old 12-30-2016, 11:27 AM
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Jagv8--

Your right, but this one was absolutely dead. Would pull about 3 ohms and when adding power to it, no click--nothing. All the others about 13.3 ohms up to 13.6. one or two down to 12.9 or so. The new one's all were 14.1 to 14.3. How they got all of them so close together is amazing.

Car ran smooth and felt as new. That may be because I hadn't driven it for a week, but still, ran great. Over time will be the test, but for now, I'm happy with the results.

Putting the new injectors in the fuel rail was a snap, getting them seated in the engine was another issue, but with patience finally work out. Much harder then expected.

Cheers.....
 
  #18  
Old 01-01-2017, 01:03 PM
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Jag V8,

Well pal, the miss came back, Still #3 cyl.

Don't know enough about the ECM to mess with trying to find out if there is a problem there, so after doing some more of my testing, will have to take it to a place that does.

Looking for answers........

Chuck
 
  #19  
Old 01-01-2017, 03:39 PM
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Very last suspect in the world is the PCM (aka ECM). Unless it's wet, then dry it.

Wiring/connectors/fuses/relays/etc are all suspects.
 
  #20  
Old 01-02-2017, 09:35 AM
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Post your codes again. Are you sure it's not a coil ? I know you checked the wells for water or oil, but the coil(s) often don't begin to fail until the temperature comes up. Unless of course, you know you are not getting current to that injector.
 

Last edited by JimmyL; 01-02-2017 at 09:40 AM.

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