Here's another vote for getting a new battery. I got the same messages on the 2005 S-Type I used to have and it turned out to be a bad battery. Once I got a new battery they disappeared.

 

This is the battery charger am using;-

 

That looks like it should work. Does it give some sort of indication when the battery is fully charged?

If so, run the charger overnight, until the indication says the battery is fully charged. Disconnect the charger and make sure the prestart voltage remains above 12.6. Let us know what happens, so we can walk you through the next steps.

 

To check whether it's 12.6, it needs some load to dissipate the surface charge. (Headlights will do)

 

Thanks, that's a good point I forgot to mention.

Started having second thoughts on the whole matter. The fault started immediately after a small collision. I'm still leaning towards internal damage with the battery, such as a plate jarred loose. There might still be enough oomph for starting, but not for maintaining prestart voltage above the magic 12.6 level. However, I'm still reluctant to suggest springing $200 for a new battery, considering this one is only a few months old.

So in my not-so-humble opinion, it all boils down to a bad battery or some other hidden damage from the collision. My PlanDuJour: Leave the battery charger connected. Measure the battery voltage with the charger running. It should be well above 12.6v. Start the car and see if the faults are gone. If so, low battery voltage was the problem. If not, there's hidden damage such as a pinched wire bundle, loose connection, etc.

 

You can be fooled by that plan if you don't check the volts after loading the battery and without starting the car.

 

Thanks a lot all.
I’ve been thinking that myself, ”jagV8”. Like I said, even though I took the car to the mechanic to replace the brake discs and pads, I was using it afterwards for two days without any problems. It only started after the little collision at the back where the battery sits. I started the car after the parking (collision) then I saw the faulty message. I feel strongly that if it is battery fault then is internal damage just as you said .
even I wanted to ask if that’s possible after such collision. Because surely the message came only after the collision.
Anyway if you people think my charger is good then am going to charge it again. I have to take the battery out and bring it home to recharge since I don’t have a garage. I will check it after charging it and after reconnecting to the car before starting the car. Actually when I recharged the other time, after about 4-5 hours it showed that it was fully charged and the rest of the 24 hours, it was just doing Auto. Maintaining.

 

Agreed, no argument there. Mostly I was thinking of a new tact for troubleshooting.

My thoughts were leaving the battery charger connected during start should hopefully keep the voltage above 12.6. With any luck, this would satisfy the persnickety control module that keeps flagging the fault. If the fault clears, then you'd know low prestart voltage was the problem.

In other words, it would be a different route to reach a similar result. Instead of testing the battery directly by measuring prestart voltage, you'd be testing it indirectly by seeing how the control module reacts by tricking it into thinking the prestart voltage is now good.

No guarantees this would work. Just trying to think of how to proceed short of forking over $200 for a new battery.

 

Thanks. I've just acquired this exact same car, with 40K miles and have that very same issue. My mechanic is pretty sure that's the problem. I'm now totally comfortable with going ahead with that repair.


Are there other unusual issues with this particular model? I've had a couple other XK's.

 

I fully recharged the battery in the car and before starting, I checked and it was 2.8v. I noticed when you take the charger off it suddenly begin to drop to about 12.3v and soon to 11.9v. So after getting 2.8v with the charger still connected, I turned the ignition and started the car hopping the current volt (12.8v) will be enough to clear the message but it didn't. Now am not really sure if if it's the battery alone. I realised now the battery might be that good since I starts to drop when charger is removed. But with at least 12.8v shouldn't it have been enough to clear the messages if it was the main problem?

My question now is do you think the battery is the only problem?
Is it possible that if battery was damaged, it might have caused the Parking Brake Module to be faulty?
Thanks.

 

It should not get soon to 11.9 so you need to find if it's a bad battery (as usual) or you have a huge drain (unlikely).

Bear in mind that "fully charged" means "to the amount the battery in its perhaps rather dead state allows". I.e. a part-dead or mostly-dead battery will be "fully charged" but useless.

 

 

Hello guys
I finally bought a new battery, recharged it to the max, checked and it was 13.1V. I reconnected it and nothing changed. I have realized there’s no problem with my battery. Am talking it to the Jaguar dealer for them to diagnose what exactly is the problem.

 

Local Jaguar dealer told me that the Handbrake Module is broken. I intend to buy used one and fix it myself. Any ideas? I think I just have to take the old one and replace it with the new one.

 

When the Electric Park Brake module on my 2005 S-Type failed back in April 2015, we tried a couple of used modules that were supposedly compatible. None of them would accept the required programming. The fix required a brand-new module with the correct configuration, part number C2C39403. Once it was installed, my selected indie shop had to use their AutoLogic system to properly program it. Once programming was complete, the Electric Park Brake system functioned normally again and has continued to do so ever since. So no, I do not believe that simply swapping in a used module will solve your problem. It must be the correct module, and then it must be programmed by a system having the capability to do so....

Prior to the fix I had the same dashboard warning messages that you apparently do: "Park Brake Fault" and "Cruise Not Available". Fortunately, my Electric Park Brake system failed in the "off" position so I was still able to drive the car with no additional issues resulting....

I screwed around with this issue for 45 days or so before finally having my selected indie shop properly diagnose and fix it. I initially installed a new battery but in my case, a failing battery was unfortunately not my issue....

 

That's great advice. I think am going through exactly what you went through. Unfortunately I ordered a used one already. If that's the case then I have to try and return it and get and new one.
Thanks.

 

Also I want to ask one more question . I ordered exactly as what I have which is ''S-TYPE / XJ X350 2004-2006 PARKING BRAKE MODULE 4R83-2C496-BJ''. Some have BF. BG, BH, BC, BD and stuff at the end of the model number. Do you think that makes a difference?

 

Yes indeed, those numbers must match EXACTLY. If they do not, your replacement module will not work because it will not accept the required programming. That is one of the issues we ran into with the two used modules we tried....

 

It finally started working good.
After the last post by "Jon89", I got a bit worried and thought I had to get a brand new EPB Module. But when he confirmed that one of the issues he had was the two used ones did not actually match the numbers exactly, I decided to try the used module I ordered, since their numbers matched perfectly. When I got it, I just disconnected the old one and put in the one I bought . That was is! It just asked me to press the footbrake and apply the Handbreak. Then it started working. All two messages were gone. I see now there was nothing wrong with the battery because even the new one had the similar Volts before and after connecting them to the car.
I think something caused the EPB Module to fail after bumping into the wall while parking. What! I really can't tell.
Thanks to you all, you educated me and saved me a lot.

 

Glad to hear that a perfect part number match on a used module worked for you without having to go through the reprogramming stage as my new module required....