Hi guys, it took me a while to get it all to come together. If you feel it needs anything added let me know. Or edit it where need be.
It is my first go at doing a word doc, that's where teenage kids come into their own, I think they got sick of showing me how its done.

I did not realize how much file space pictures take up from a 10 mega pixel camera, this is my first go at this so bear with me a while.
I have had to separate the complete doc into smaller chunks to upload it, I will post it in a new thread. Link below,it is posted in the Australia/New Zealand section

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...-guide-113417/

 

Oops! ... I think I goofed twice over. Since arriving back home from our "touring" it has all been a hectic catch-up, and you chaps have been soooo busy.

First, Clarke, I can't find your revised word doc ... yes, you realized you can't send via PM, but can't find it here either. I'll PM you again my email, although I think you have it. Please point me, as I feel I'm having a "duh" moment here, with you wondering why I don't reply.

Like the first big "duh" moment over mixture adjustments on the SU Hs vs HDs ... Yes, Grant is absolutely correct. Sorry Clarke, for misguiding you ... and thanks Grant, for correcting what would have survived as an acute embarrassment.

Finally, welcome and greetings to Tom. As you can see, you have arrived at an opportune time ... with your knowledge of SUs ... and Sydney location. Also, we are a friendly mob around here ... few bite (coz they got no teeth), several drool (but we keep them well clear of the bodywork), while most recognize that I am bordering on "village idiot" only some of the time. Glad to have you contributing, mate.

So, who knows how to get this thing started again? Geez, I think I've flooded it!

Best wishes,
Ken

 

Hi All,
When replacing the jets is it best to remove carbys or is it easy to do with them still attached? Looks like it may be tricky but can it be done?

Clarke

 

My advice, is to remove the carbies.

Those forks and TINY screws are fiddly on the bench with the carby inverted.

OK, anything is do-able, but I have never attempted that one, and do so now with "Artha" as my best mate would be suicide.

 

Carbys off it is then, so gasket set needed as well.
Will check out Midel & Jagdaim tomorrow, day off again.

Update: It doesn't look like Jagdaim have kits on their listing,just some needles.
SU midel have service kit for 2 carbys at $144 delivered. Includes 2 of,Jets,needle & Seat,gasket pack. Metering needle not included.
They want $30 each for needles(BCC)

The local carby specialist wants $39 + GST per jet(not service kit,just jet), $12 + GST for needles.

Looks like Midel for the jets with kits and local for needles. Still total of $170 to service carbys.

 

Coz we all want to save money, have a GOOD look at the needles, and any wear will be clearly evident as scuff marks.

I have had many jets with worn holes, but few needles with actual wear. They are NOT plain tapered, they are a stepped style, and quite confusing at first.

The measuring of them is near impossible. I tried years ago, and gave up once I understood the "stepped" style.

My suggestion is to do the jets/gaskets and needle and seats, and see how it performs after that. If needles are needed, it is a simple task to lift the bellchamber and replace the needles, and simply refit and mixture tune.

Forgot, I do that. The needles are spring loaded in the piston. Check that the small securing wedge is "absolutely flat" with the face of the piston. The spring loading of the needles does prevent a huge amount of wear that was a PITA with the HD, and H carbies as the bias had to set and adjusted so the needle did not "rub" on the jet. This was time consuming and fiddly at best, so the HS units are easier to live with in many ways.

 

Had my wife look at the needles when I had them out,she could see the scuff marks. So if she thought they looked scuffed then they probably are. I will take your advice and do the kits first. Leave the needles for now and see how it goes.
I can get the needles in a lunch break, Progas carbys is 2 blocks over from work,and the mixture tune is easy now the cleaning and prep work has already been done.

Update: Sourced a service kit locally for $120,can pick it up this morning and fit it tomorrow.

 

Can one you gurus out there let me know if this is the correct position to replace the needle?

In the picture of the needle ,what is referred to as the "shoulder of the shank" that has to be flush with the piston face, Number 1 or number 2?

 

Clarke,

#1 is the meaning of that instruction.

I use a small 3" steel rule, and hold the "wedge" in place, flush with the face, whilst tightening the lock screw.

 

Thanks Grant, I thought that was the one. I will try your steel rule method.
Carbys are back on car ,floats needles and seats have been tested. Tuning tomorrow.
I was just waiting for a confirmation on this step, I assumed it was right as that is the way I did it with the tune last week.
I will savor this glass of red and back into it tomorrow.
Cheers, Clarke

 

Cool.

I am off to sleep, up at 6am, open this spare parts operation once more. 4 more days to go, then back into retirement, whoopee.

 

I have 20 + years until retirement. Can't wait, I enjoy working but the 4 days off week are simply not enough time to get through all the things I have on my "to do" list each week.
I don't understand the people who say retirement is boring, to me it is when I'm finally going to get everything done on time. Instead of getting everything done on time for my employer.

 

Hi Guys, road tested after all the carby work. Running sweet above 600rpm. Idle still ***** at 500. Set it at 600rpm as all books say for auto box(500 in drive). If I pull choke a bit at lights to idle at 650rpm all is close to sweet when at normal operating temp. My feeling is I should just have it idle at 650 rpm in drive?
My Jeep and Mazda both idle at 600-700 + at running temp. But if its a fuel economy thing I couldn't give a toss Or I'd be suffering the Mazda as a daily.

 

Good to hear.

That idle spec is always taken as subjective.

Our S2 Daimler was sweet at 650ish in P, and dropped to about 550 in D. Sons S3, very different I know, was rough as at 550 in D, so upped it 50, and good as.

If yours likes that slightly higher idle, so be it. The 50 or so revs will do no real harm.

Another reason for the idle speed spec is to not have the torgue convertor "slipping" too much at idle and the car not moving, thus creating excessive heat, that has to be dissipated, and also damages trans oils. HOWEVER, the trans oils today are far superior to what was around in the '60's and '70's, so again, fear not.

If you are worried about the trans oil, use Semi, or Full Synthetic when you next change it. Either of those handles heat much better than the Mineral equivalent.

 

I will be throwing a new trans gasket(sump) at it Wednesday. what is the best fliud to use?.
As for the plugs, I'm heading for the garage as we speak. I think these pics tell a story

Update, Plug pics from before and after tune. After first road test rear (456) plugs were black when I checked them this arvo. Swapped mixture needles front to back, retuned carbs and did 29km road test. See pics ...all good I think

BTW, have got fuel economy down to 19 ltr/100 km. Ok with me as my jeep does 18/ 100 tuned sweet(had it from 20k km, now done 225k KM).
Or should I be searching for more. I'm ok with the fuel milage as the Jeep would be my next choice of ride anyway, so would a couple of K's be worth the time? Or I could ride the bikes.

Number 5 looks a touch rich,but don't think I can do much about that. Pics are my game, there is about 400 you missed between these plug shots, if you like I could post all of them(lol)
Clarke

 

Best fluid, mmmm, what a question.

I have used Penrite, or Nulon, Full Synthetic in all the transmissions of all my jags for so long now it is simply habit.

The "first" drop and fill will get contaminated very quickly, due to about 60% old fluid being "undrainable". That is why I always recommend at least 4 drop and refills to get that "new fluid" concentration up in the 80% area. Most people have noticed a difference at the first drop, and improvements as things progress.

Those plug look fine. Maybe a typo in there, the #1 cylinder on Jag 6 cylinder engines of that engine family is at the REAR of the engine. The V12 is "normal", and the AJ6 onwards is "normal". No biggy, just how it is.

 

I have done 3 x drop fluid and replace with Nulon F fluid.

I have been referring to plugs as No. 1 at radiator , No 6 at windscreen end. Anyhow,I like the colour . I'm hapy with mixture,just got to get idle to 700 rpm tomorrow in "N"