I spent about 6 hours Sunday working on my XJR with the McGuire's DA correction system and my new Porter Cable DA buffer.

The McGuire's system did OK, I was a bit disappointed with the $100 "system" because I am still going to need a pro to buff out a few water spots that I could not remove with the DA buffer. My fault for buying a black car!

Anyway, the car looks great, but my hands have been numb for the past few days from the vibration of the DA. Any advice from the pros on how to minimize this effect?

I did a lot of work at about 4800 RPM, that is where the vibration was the worst. 3000 RPM was tolerable.
Vector

 

I used dial-settings around "2" and "4" I believe. Meguiar's MF/DA (5") kit and PC buffer. No issues afterward.

 

Vector I'm sorry but....................



you just can't make statements like.." I spent about 6 hours Sunday working on my XJR with the McGuire's DA correction system and my new Porter Cable DA buffer".....

and not post em on up

sorry to hijack your thread and hopefully one of the pros' will jump in with solid advice for ya

 

See Jim? That was my FIRST thought yesterday when I saw Vector's thread...but I held my pen and managed to come up with the above.

Vector, my experience was last spring/summmer (I've done my XJ and one S-type thus far) and I'd reckon near 5-6 hrs of buffer-time each as I did 3 steps - both compounding and polishing with the MF/DA kit and then a sealant LSP. But even though it was long enough ago to have forgotten the pain...I know I didn't have any numbness....more a bit of stiffness in the lower back.
Expecting to do all 3 Jags plus the pickup and the Exc this spring....around honey-doo's so may well be into autumn before I complete.....

 

Sorry about the pics, guys, I'll try to get some up soon.

I guess it really wasn't numbness as much as feeling like my hands had been vibrated for a long time, which they were, kind of tingly and sore.

I'm going to try wrapping a big piece of upholstery foam around the DA when I use it, should isolate the vibration a bit.

Would polishing compound work withe the McGuire's discs to get out the few water spots I still have in the finish. Anyone recommend another product which will finish the job?

Vector

 

few products spring to mind, there's Farecla G3 - to get best results use really light pressure and small circular polishing by hand, then add a bit of water and polish the area with the DA to clear off the water spots...

and there's 3M 's system - 'finesse it' this removes swirls and 1500 marks.

I've also used Zymol's stuff with good results - I do a panel at a time by hand and buff off with a DA.

I've a very expensive custom black paint finish so I know what I'm talking about, I always start rectification by hand, sometimes the DA can't touch some bits as the clearcoat is the newer super hard stuff.

 

Vector,

When it comes to knocking out those more stubborn areas such as harder water spots and deeper scratches, bumping up the RPM to full tilt (speed 6) helps alot. I have been able to correct stubborn water spots and even 2000 grit sanding marks using the Megs MF correction system. Try isolating the damaged area and give the spots 3 rounds of slow precise buffing, overlapping the previous passes 50%. Go vertical, horizontal then finish vertical again and they should be gone...of course to achieve even better results a pass of M205 with a polishing pad really gives the black paint pop, followed by your LSP.

Regarding the vibration, welcome to my world.....I guess its just something that I get use to since I am working with this machine all the time. I do find it easier on the hands when I remove the handle and put my hand over the head of the machine and work it that way instead. Just let the machine work, do not apply too much pressure and soon enough it will just glide in your hands.