What's the easiest/ best way to remove water spots left from a garden hose?? It's a black 03 s type r-- my dumb wife washed off porch and got water all over car which was left to dry in sun,, so I come home and am like wtf!! I Miami waxed car immediately nut only removed a percentage of it, in sun / light they are still there,, 2 hours later my arms are tired and I'm not satisfied with the result ,, suggestions appreciated please

 

I'd give a light swirl removal a job, if that doesn't work, something stronger. I had the same issue myself, and had to use a strong swirl remover like Ultimate Compound.

 

A good washing with high quality cleaner can remove most water spots. If that doesn't get them, follow with a clay bar, and use a cleaner wax such as the cheap off-the-shelf Zymol.

That cleaner wax can generally handle it all by itself, but if you are doing it, you may as well do it properly. Using the clay bar followed by nearly any wax results in a finish that's slick like you wouldn't believe, and makes cleaning things like water spots very easy in the future.

Waxing dried water spots can spread the contaminants around, scarring your finish, unless you use a cleaner wax or thoroughly wash the surface first.

The clay bar will ensure complete removal of any contaminants, but be sure to follow with a new coat of wax. The bar is easy to use, and the results are immediate.

 

a) Surface water spots- (Stage I Corrosion) alkaline watermarks consist of calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) both of which are basic (alkaline pH 10) that alight on the surface; ultra violet (heat) radiation (UVR) will leave a white ‘water mark’, the minute crystals bond to the surface, they will not wash off as they are insoluble and if left for any length of time they will etch the paint film surface leaving a concave circular mark, remove surface deposits with detailer’s clay and an acetic acid pH 2.0 (vinegar) to naturalise the alkaline


b) Below surface (etched) acidic spots- (Stage II Corrosion ) are caused by an aggressive alkaline or an acidic solution (acid rain, bird excrement or industrial fallout) causing a chemical reaction, if left for any length of time they will etch the paint film surface leaving a concave circular mark. Etched acid rain spots are one of the most difficult paint defects to remove so be patient as it will probably take more than one attempt to remove them. Acid spots require an abrasive polish to level the surface (some stubborn marks may require wet sanding) and an alkaline solution to neutralize them, simply rinsing a vehicle with deionised water or tap water activates / reactivates the acid concentrates.

 

This is something of a common occurance.....those waterspots are a pain in the ****...

When you were a kid, do you remember taking a magnifying glass to a leaf and using the suns intense heat you could burn the leaf?

Waterspots are accomplished much in the same manner...A bead of water with all of its contaminants....lime, calcium, chlorine and other impurities sit above the surface or on the paint. The sun then heats this waterspot so that eventually the water gets hot enough to evaporate only leaving the impurites to damage the paint. This can either happen in 2 ways.....above the surface contamination or into the surface damage.....both are considered paint correction, but when it bites into the surface you then need to level out the paint, polish and seal.

From your explanation, this sound like the case.....Do you have any experience with a D/A polisher?

If not I would recommend consulting a pro for an honest evaluation...