Newbie here in need of some remote diagnostics.

s-type 2.7d 2007

From cold, starts and runs fine for 5-10 mins then restricted performance kicks in….no smoke, just the loss of acceleration and power.
same every morning…fine, then not fine.

There seems to be a million different reasons for restricted performance…. Anyway of narrowing it down without throwing the parts catalogue at it?

new fuel filter didn’t sort it.

TIA

 

Just read the trouble codes by OBD2 reader. If you don´t own one, pretty much any mechanic shop have for sure and will read the codes for low money.

 

should have mentioned - no codes🙁

 

No codes.. huh..
Hmm.. The fuel added are calculated by measured airflow by MAF sensor(s). These (2pcs) are right next to the airfilter box. There are spray solvent meant for cleaning MAF sensors. (do not touch the thin wires inside of the duct, they are fragile) During cleaning you can try to swap places of the two sensors. Upper one are for secondary (+2800rpm) and lower for primary.
This are pretty much only issue what i can think without codes...

 

Hi So Good,

Very sorry to hear of the issues you are having with your XF. I can only agree that you need to check the fault codes to make sure nothing is amiss there. I know its been said before many times but these diesels really need a really good long work out which in depending where you are is not always easy. I only use my 2008 XF for long distance cruising and that can be anywhere from a 400km to 500km day drive to in my case several thousanfs of KM. Never had any restricted performance warning messages ever.

The other thing would be to get it checked over by an independent Jaguar service garage (not the JLR dealership). I have an independent Jaguar servicing guy who keeps my car in excellent condition. I know none of that is technical advice but if a check shows there's nothing serious take it for the drive of its life.

 

From the sounds of it it is your EGR Valves that are failing. The EGRs (you have 2) are not meant to work when the car is cold or when the engine is not under load, so down hills or parked they're not needed, and I dont think they kick in until about 2,500 RPM. The reason you are getting the restricted performance is probably because the EGR Sensor A ( the MAP Sensor) is telling the engine that the EGR is already being used too much, you will probably get no fault codes on most basic fault code reader, more in depth OBD readers will see an issue, but in most cases will say its you map sensor.

Map Sensors are about £109 from Jaguar UK Dealers, or second hand from about £35- Cleaning the EGR and changing the MAP will work for about a week then the problem will slowly start again.
Jaguar EGR's are about £400 to £600 per pair from the dealer (you can buy singularly). You can get a pair on Ebay for just £70 if you're on a budget, it takes 2 hours to change each bank if you dont have fat hands or short arms

You can clean your Map Sensor but use suction- DO NOT POKE ANYTHING IN THE LITTLE HOLE! If you push debris in there it will fail and fail withing hours, most probably on a Sunday

Do you have any auto club or road side recovery membership? I drive out to the park when I have an issue I cant find the cause of and call them out to come diagnose the problem for me whilst I drink coffee and eat cake in the sunshine, its free (not the coffee & cake) if your have membership. I think you have AAA in the states, we have RAC, AA and Green Flag here in the UK. Their readers will read any ECU in the car and will tell you about any electrical issues you might have.

 

I had the same problem on my 2007 2.7 S-Type Diesel, and a mechanic friend of mine thought it may be the EGR valves being clogged with soot. He opened them up (they were full of black junk) and while the engine was running at 2500 RPM, he sprayed some sort of solvent in them for a minute or 2 (causing a clacking sound which he said was a good sign that the the valve was working), and for the next 2 years I had no "Restricted Performance" code show up. It's now happening again, so I'm going to try it again as it's much cheaper than buying new ones!

 

Hi there! I had to laugh when I saw you cunning technique that allows for a coffee and pastry in the park! Haha! I thought your reply should have been entitled "Easy as a walk in the Park"

See my reply to the tread above. But I also notice that you've had quite a few Jaguars (my current 2007 S-Type 2.7 diesel is only my 2nd), so I thought I might reach out with a question not related to the EGR valves, if that's OK?

I should preface it by saying that where i live here in Germany, there is only one Jag dealership withing 100 miles, and the one time I went there was a veritable nightmare!

I bought the car 7 yrs ago, and starting about 2 yrs later, during the cold season (and never during the summer months), I start the car, drive about 4 or 500 yards, and I get a little clunk as the car locks in to 3rd gear and on my dash I see the little LED display says "Transmission fault". So I continue to drive in 3rd gear for a couple of miles (I learned this through trial and error), and when the temperature gauge shows that the engine is no longer cold and has moved a bit up towards warmer, I pull over, stop the engine, wait 1 minute are so, and then restart. The message is gone, and the ZF transmission works like silk from that point on. If it's very cold, I can even park the car and come back 2 hrs later and no problems t all.But of course, after several winters of this routine, it becomes a bit of a chore. With no coffee or pastry!

So my question is: Do you think there might be a temperature sensor in the transmission, and that if so, it may not be working right? I have noticed that when this problem happens during the cold weather when it's still dark out during the early mornings, that at precisely the same moment the transmission fault light comes on, there is a light flicker on my headlight beams, A bit like there was a lightning fast short of sorts.

Might you have any ideas on this? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
All the best!
Stan

 

Hi,
Sounds eletrical clitch. The ZF transmission is known to enter "safe mode" if power feed is cut or dropped. The headlight flicker pointing that direction. Does your S-Type have auxilary heater? Does it work? Or is it jammed and when vehicle ECU try to start it up in cold weather it causes short in circuitry?

 

Hello Stan,

Not a great idea to sidetrack thread with an unrelated issue, but here's my 2 cents.

Initial cold weather glitch on the S-Type is far more likely to be a battery issue . . . which resolves after the alternator brings B+ back above the threshold. The S-Type is notorious for needing a relatively high 12.7 volts standing after a night with no battery charger/tender. Any less is likely to produce a variety of faults . . . cannot engage EPB; cruise control not available; transmission failures; and perhaps more rarely, adopt a limp mode. Mine even messaged the scary "Contact Bank Manager Urgently!!!"

Jokes aside, the proof is right there in your experience . . . a resolution once you stop, switch off, then restart with a (now) acceptable battery voltage. I know it sounds weird, but the battery often has sufficient charge to start the engine, but not sufficient to properly start the many PCMs around this complex vehicle. Suggest you read the Stickies > FAQ > Maintenance at the top of the forum. Get your battery tested. Consider investing in a battery tender / smart charger . . . especially one that allows permanent connection inside boot with inline plug/socket for easy overnight charging.

Cheers and best wishes,