I have a 2020 Jaguar E-Pace/R-Dynamic/SE. It had been running great since I bought it. About a month ago I pushed the start button and the car started but the yellow engine light and yellow brake light STAYED ON instead of flashing for a second and then going away. At this point I was not able to shift the car out of park. So the engine was running but the car was stuck in park with 2 yellow warning lights on. While cycling on I also received a "Gearbox fault detected" message and a " Park brake fault detected" in the screen area below the warning lights. I turned the car off, waiting 5 minutes, and then tried again. On the fourth 5 minute cycle, the car allowed me to shift it out of park even though the yellow engine light STAYED ON. Over the last month this same thing has happened 4 times. Once I got it to shift again I drove it to the dealer and the dealer kept my car for 4 days but was unable to replicate the issue so they gave me my car back only to have it happen again 4 days later. Has anyone seen anything like this? Do they have any troubleshooting tips I could pass on to the dealer? Thanks, Tom

First error message

Second error message

Screen after pressing OK several times. Car wouldn't shift out of park at this point.

 

These odd symptoms are suggestive of low battery voltage. Yes, this sounds odd but modern cars require full battery voltage all the time; when they do not get it, random system warning lights will appear. The very first thing to do is to charge the battery fully.
But given that the engine light has come on, have you checked the oil level?

 

Thanks for the post! After the first 2 times that this happened the dealer said that they thought it might be a low battery so I had the battery replaced. It ran well for a week and they it happened again. This time I took it to the dealer. They had the car for almost 4 days doing various tests including testing the functionality of the new battery. Their real goal was to replicate the issue. They said they were unable to find error codes in the system although many on this forum have mentioned error codes stored somewhere so I'm not sure why they couldn't find them. The dealer did some software upgrades hoping this might solve the problem and then gave me the car back. 4 days later it happened again so I once again took it back to the dealer immediately after I was able to get it running again. I did get the oil changed in April. I will mention your oil idea to the dealer when they open tomorrow. Thanks again, Tom

 

Well, the first thing is this: is your battery fully charged? The fact that the battery was replaced does NOT guarantee that the possible problem of low voltage is solved - why? because new batteries are seldom, in fact almost never fully charged when installed! Unless it is purposely brought to full charge, regular use of the car will seldom ever bring it to full charge (!) unless that use includes long trips. The mere act of starting the car puts a significant load on the system.
So job #1: bring the battery to full charge. The favoured method is to use a "smart" charger (which is actually a battery maintainer) such as the CTEK unit - in fact, many owners use these battery maintainers whenever the car is not in use. My cars when parked in the garage are on the permanently installed CTEK. The result? no issues related to battery voltage - in fact, no issues. My F-Type at rest: Note the CTEK on the wall:



Once the battery is at full charge you can move forward. If the symptoms continue then you have at least eliminated low battery voltage as the cause (you would be amazed how often this IS the cause).
My recommendation that you verify the oil level is because this is a basic issue. Low oil levels can cause serious damage to the engine - so check the oil level now - your owner's manual gives instructions on this.

 

These modern vehicles are sensitive to battery that is undercharge. It'll give you headaches. Have the battery tested. Yes, there are new batteries that can be defective. I've got a defective new battery for my XF 2 years ago. It drove me crazy, had it on battery charger and my multimeter reads 13+ volts and the car does not start. So, I have it tested and the new battery failed the "load test"

 

After 2 weeks of analyzing data the dealer recommended I replace the transmission on my 2020 Epace with 65,000 miles. Cost was $20,000. Instead I traded it in.

 

Another reason to never take a car to the JLR dealer unless it is a warranty issue.

 

After 2 weeks of analyzing data the dealer recommended I "replace" the transmission on my 2020 Epace with 65,000 miles. Cost was $20,000. Instead I traded it in.

JLR dealers "replace" while independent mechanics "repair".

I know that those of you in the States are not inclined to drive diesels, but those of us who do are quite fond of them. My F-Pace 3.0 TTD came up with the error message "POOR QUALITY DIESEL EXHAUST FLUID, NO START IN 800km (500 miles)".

I had purchased my diesel exhaust fluid from a well established truck stop, so i didn't question the quality. I rang my closest JLR dealer and explained the problem just to see what they would say. I was told that the ADBLUE (diesel exhaust fluid) tank had to be drained/rrefilled and the tank sensor needed to be "REPLACED".

Cost.....$1200-$1500.

I have been taking my Jags to the same independent Jaguar mechanic for as long as i can remember. My indie said, "it is probably just a false error message, Let me delete the error message and let's see if it comes back". It took him five minutes to plug his laptop into the OBD port and delete the error message. It never returned. Total cost.....$0.00!!!