E type ( XK-E ) 1961 - 1975

64 xk-e can't sit in storage forever!

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Old 05-29-2015, 12:55 PM
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Default 64 xk-e can't sit in storage forever!

I posted this in the new member thread, but thought I'd repost here for insight from fellow Jag enthusiasts.

Hello to all! We have had a 1964 (I believe) XK E type coupe in the family for generations, bought new by my grandfather. The car has been warehoused and hasn't been driven since 1989-I know this because I drove it to my Senior Prom and it broke down and I pushed it home while my date steered for fear of leaving a 1964 Jag on the side of the road.

The car was given to me in 2007 through the estate, and the time has come to do something with this vehicle, but frankly I'm not 100% sure where to begin. I'm not overly mechanically savvy, and am unsure what to expect as far as costs associated to getting the car in running condition, let alone restored. Initial visual inspections of the car lead me to believe the body is in good shape with no visible rust or dents, and the interior, with exception to a small tear on the side panel behind the drivers seat from the roof structure the interior looks fine as well. The roof molding needs replaced, and the windshield has a crack top to bottom. All to the untrained eye, of course. Mechanically, I couldn't even guess. I will say that I believe it broke down in 89 because of a fuel supply issue.

I don't even know what the value of this car would be in it's current condition. Any advice how to compare it's current condition apples to apples to similar conditioned cars to get an estimate on value and what the level of expectation would be for costs to restore? I've had plenty of people offer to "take it off my hands!"
Any input you would have would be greatly appreciated. I feel a little overwhelmed. I owe it to my wife and children to experience, at least once, the thrill of a sunny afternoon riding in a convertible jag, as my grandfather allowed me to experience as a child! It's too beautiful to just sit.
 
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Old 05-29-2015, 06:41 PM
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Hey Robert - We're always glad to hear there is another S1 around. From your prom story, it sounds like you've had the Jag experience. I only had mine strand me once, so no complaint - and that was at home on the way to pick up a pizza. (BTW, it was a fuel pump issue.)

There's a wide range of potential value, depending on condition, but lack of rust & body damage would be a great start. If you'll let us know where you're located, someone might be able to point you to some local resources. Cheers.
 
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Old 05-30-2015, 08:08 AM
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I'm confused as to which type you have - you say coupe in one sentence and convertible in another. The driver's seat tear due to the roof structure makes it sound like you have an open two-seater (convertible), NOT a coupe.

Hagerty's most recent insurance valuations for both types:
https://www.hagerty.com/valuationtoo...port?vbe=41376
https://www.hagerty.com/valuationtoo...port?vbe=84135

In either case, you have a win-win. Without any rust or structural problems to deal with, taking care of the mechanical and trim issues would leave you with an expenditure far, far under the current market value of the car (especially with a open two-seater). With a documented, one-family ownership from new, the value would be significantly more than the price guides. Whatever you do, DO NOT sell the car in its current state. Anyone offering to "take it off your hands" is someone you do not want to talk to for even 30 more seconds. You have to appreciate the wind-fall inheritance left to you by your grandfather!
 
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Old 05-30-2015, 08:36 AM
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If you would put state or city where you live in profile. Any one of us who lives near you would probably be easily coaxed into coming by and giving you a helping hand.
 
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Old 06-01-2015, 10:25 AM
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In hindsight, my post was a little vague. My apologies. I reside in Southwest Idaho.

It is an E type convertible, not coupe. I misspoke earlier.

Also, my "take it off your hands" comment was tongue in cheek. I would never take a statement like that as beneficial to me in any way shape or form.

I've attached a few images, for your reference.

Thanks for the welcome and guidance!







 
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Old 06-01-2015, 11:49 AM
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Did you ever get any help?
 
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Old 06-01-2015, 12:48 PM
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Robert
You have a little treasure on your hands....Spend a little money on a professional survey..
There is probably someone on this forum , who can direct you to a classic survey expert in your area...
If not heavily rusted, and in clean and good running condition, this is what we call a "survivor", and could be worth a lot of money.
Good luck, and please let us know what you find out.
Edward
 
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Old 06-01-2015, 01:49 PM
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I was referred in the Welcome page to a restoration outfit out of Blackfoot Idaho called Vintge Jag works, but have yet to make contact.

My first order of business is three-fold:
1. What is the car currently worth
2. What is the expected cost to become operational
3. What is the expected cost to restore.

I would be willing to hire a professional surveyor to physically inspect the vehicle, but until I have an idea of what the answers are to the above 3 questions to better understand the situation I am faced with and the subsequent choices I need to make, that would be the furthest I would go at this point.

I googled Professional Surveyor (classic car/car restoration, etc.) and found no results. If anyone could point me in the right direction, that would be a great start.

Cheers
R
 
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Old 06-01-2015, 07:09 PM
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knowing what its worth should be easy and done right away. Classic car appraisers can do this for about $200- 300. A '64 survivor OTS like yours should be insured for replacement value ASAP. The cost estimate of getting it running/driving may best be provided by a good mechanic familiar with Jags going over it for a day or two. Restoration all depends on your preferred end point from reliable weekend driver to a concourse trailer queen. If you enjoy tinkering you might be lucky and be able to get her started on your own.
Enjoy the adventure!
Alfred
 
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Old 06-01-2015, 09:34 PM
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Your E-Type looks wonderfully original. I would suggest that rather than having "restoration" as an endpoint, you consider "preservation" of the original features. Anyone can have a fully restored E-Type, but it is original only once. In today's market, preserved originals can have a higher value than nut-and-bolt, full restorations.

As a starting point on evaluating your car's originality, I would suggest that you get a copy of the JCNA Judging Guide for Series 1 E-Types:
http://www.jcna.com/sites/default/fi...es/e-type1.pdf
And study it very carefully, point-by-point, against the current state of your car.
Along the way, spend 2-3 days doing a comprehensive but gentle clean-up of every inch of your car, from stem to stern, from top to bottom. Then take a comprehensive series of good resolution photos of every aspect of your car.

At this point, you can take steps to get your car appraised and insured, even before taking the first steps to getting it running. Last thing you want to do is release the car to a second party for mechanical work before it is initially insured (shop fires, accidents, and thefts do occur). This can be as simple a process as sending the set of photos to, say, Hagerty (or your favorite insurer), and claiming an agreed value of, say, $65,000, based on just a cursory examination of your photos. The valuation can always be increased later when you have something more than a static display E-Type. Or you could have a professional appraiser document the current value more concretely.

Then the next step would be doing the minimal amount of work required for getting the car into a safely operable, normally functioning state. Assuming no significant engine/gearbox/rear end problems, this should be a straightforward process. Just follow the directions in something like the Bentley workshop manual for the E-Type. Or you can have a professional shop do the minimal work required. The servicing aspects of the E-Type are not at all intimidating. While you are doing all this, DO NOT throw away any part of the car - not a single bolt, nut, or hose clamp. Replace items where needed, but always keep the original part. Maintain the preservationist mindset.

When the car is running normally, and is as cosmetically presentable as possible, it will time for another think-over as to the proper insurance re-valuation and where to go from there.

Vintage Jag Works should be able to provide a lot of valuable assistance and guidance. Walt Osborn has been around Jaguars for a loooong time.
 
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Old 06-02-2015, 09:17 AM
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All good advice here. Just beware of the money trolls that just want to steal and flip a nice car like this.
Best of luck in your work.
 
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Old 06-02-2015, 09:52 AM
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Thanks for all the wonderful input on my situation. I have always known the potential of the situation I find myself in and want to make sure that I take the correct steps with the car.

I'll keep you posted on my adventure!

Thanks again!
Cheers!
 
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Old 06-04-2015, 08:14 PM
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Default adventure ahead!

Robert, all good replies and good advise. am going through something similar with my 69 coupe. assessing value is tricky but I got a pretty good idea of relative values just watching ads on hemmings and autotraderclassic for a year before buying mine. also, hemmings has a valuation tool that gives values for 4 conditions since about 2007. read them and be honest as to where you think yours stacks up.


when these old beasts sit for a long time they can develop corrosion in the fuel tank and tiny particles of rust break loose and reek havoc with the fuel system. take a strong flashlight and look down the filler hole at the bottom of the tank. you will know immediately if you have that particular problem. new tanks run about $600, old ones can be cleaned and coated if the corrosion is not too deep.


warning: if you begin the process of getting it up and running you can become emotionally attached very quickly. it has happened to me. and, yes, I have my stranded story too, fortunately, within walking distance of home.


very best of luck. bill
 
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Old 06-05-2015, 11:10 PM
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Hi I am interested in this car where is it locatedd and can you call me (410)491-6027 my name is John thanks hope we can put something together
 
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Old 06-17-2015, 01:33 PM
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Default Jag experts in Idaho

There is a company in Blackfoot, Idaho, that specializes in E-Types. Don't sell it, they are relatively easy to work on and these guys are good. BTW, do you know the Reeds of Reed Grain in Twin Falls? My cousins...
Jim Watts
 
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Old 06-24-2015, 04:40 PM
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I've traded emails with the outfit out of Blackfoot. He refered me to the Classic Car Price Guide book, where the car is rated 1-6 (I'm sure you all know this though). Low end (6) $3600 High end (1) 91,500. I'm sure it's neither a 1 or a 6. Guessing the estimate (with the vehicle unseen short of photos) to get the car running look to be $10-$20k. Full restoration $160k.

I don't know your cousins...sorry. lol.
 
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Old 07-06-2015, 05:07 AM
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Robert,

I have been looking for a car like this for many years, an untouched example. I live in the UK and have wanted one of these since I was 9 years old...I am now 51 so a long wait!

Can you let me know what your plans are for the car as if you want to sell I am interested.

Best regards
 
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Old 07-22-2015, 02:01 AM
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Default Value of your car

Robert,
Not running your car is worth 25-30K. Running 40-80K. Restored 100-200K,

It all depends on the condition.

From the pictures you could have a nice daily driver for under 2K. Before you try to start it, go buy a new battery. change the oil and filter, replace the coolant, replace the points with an aftermarket pointless ignition system, drain the fuel tank and remove the gas tank sump and check whats in there, if it's full of rust pull the tank and have it serviced or buy a new one, bench test the fuel pump (if it clicks a few times a second then
it probably works), disconnect the fuel lines and blow them out with an air line, replace the fuel filter, clean out the float bowls and oil the dampeners in the carbs . Put it all back together put a few gallons in the tank and start it up, it will take minute for the pump to fill the carbs so wait for the clicking to stop. Squirt some starting fluid down the carb throats and turn the key.
 
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Old 08-12-2015, 06:51 AM
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Not mentioned before, but that is a late 3.8 car, having the 4.2 dash. Here is a photo of a 1961 car in the same colours:-


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Old 08-12-2015, 06:55 AM
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Can't seem to delete the duplicate photo so here's the one I wanted to post. This is an early flat floor car.

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