I own a '66 Jaguar E-Type Series 1, 4.2L that has developed severe steering to the right at all times. I must keep both hands on the wheel and turn the steering wheel to the left about 10 degrees to keep it straight. Before the car developed the problem, I could use one hand to steer and it would remain straight.

The car driving characteristics are:

• Car steers severely to the right passenger side. This seemed to suddenly happen sometime this year. Before, the car would steer with one hand or finger on the wheel.
• Fairly new Michelin tire on the front, purchased less than 5 years ago. Tire looks fine no bulges or wear.
• When I got the car home I did not smell anything unusual nor were the brakes smoking or appeared hot.
• I looked at the tie rods and they seemed to be in order, nothing broken or loose.
• Two weeks ago I took the car out for a drive and tested the brakes with severe braking, no problem, no smoke nor did the car brake more to the right than the left. It seemed to brake straight and very sudden. The brake on the right side did not release using this attempt.
• I checked all the tire pressure and filled to 30-32 lbs on each.
• I filled the bottle with brake fluid, just to top off the bottle. I checked for leaks around the left side caliper and found no leaks.
• I jacked the car up and spun the passenger side tire and it did not spin freely, I could hear the brake dragging on the rotor. The drivers side wheel spun freely with out any brake drag.
• That would only leave the following that could be: Caliper dragging on the rotor, steering alignment, belt loose in the tire, or steering suspension part problem.

From this description, what is my problem? I am leaning toward the brake caliper and stuck piston. Has anyone had a similar problem like this.


The front brakes are original and have never been rebuilt. The car has 112,000 miles on the odometer.


Thank you for your help.

 

I'd certainly look first and hardest at the brakes.

It's normal for brake pads to drag against the rotor .....*slightly*. It's hard to say if what you've described goes beyond that.

Therefore, hearing and feeling no drag whatsoever ..."spun freely"....is equally troubling as too much drag.

Might be interesting to have a helper lightly apply the brakes while you spin each front wheel....feeling and listening for a difference.

If nothing else both sides should feel the same

Cheers
DD

 

I think you have correctly diagnosed your own problem. Original front brakes at 112,000 miles are probably waaaay beyond their sell-by date. If you can pull out the RF pad, you might then try pushing in the piston using a lever like a very large screw driver (be sure to remove brake fluid from the fill canisters so you do not overflow them). That might show if the piston is stuck in its bore. But after all these years, you may not be able to even shift the brake pad.

Also, with a possible stuck front piston, are you sure your rear brakes are functional (any signs of the pads sweeping the discs?). The front brakes do most of the work, so loafing rear brakes may not even be noticeable (except in a panic stop). Does your emergency brake hold on any sort of a grade? With an original brake system of this age and mileage, I would examine ALL the brakes (and brake lines) exceedingly closely.

 

Thanks Doug and SCMike for the comments and suggestions. I will check the brakes for the stuck piston. I drove the car today and was wondering about two things I may have overlooked, 1) What about the steering linkage, could it somehow gotten stuck and I am having to steer the wheel to the left to compensate. 2) What about greasing the suspension fitting. I got underneath the car today and shook all suspension parts for looseness but found nothing loose or leaking. I am going to take the car to an independent to diagnosis the problem and will let you know the outcome.

Thanks again for the tips.

 

It's possible that a steering or suspension component is worn and/or binding, yes. Or worn enough to cause a wheel alignment issue.

Cheers
DD

 

Hi Mate,

All kinds of possibilities here so let's start at the beginning. Car pulls to the right!? When going straight or turning, how fast, under braking?

Brake fluid is anhydrous which means it absorbs moisture from the air. That moisture causes corrosion in brake lines and calipers. The pads allow the pistons in the caliper to move further out as they wear. The fluid should be changed every 24 months , well in theory anyway. Now check the pads to see if they are worn evenly on both sides of the calipers. then on both left and right sides. If one pad is thinner than the other, that's a big hint about your problem. Get a turkey baster and suck out all the fluid and replaced it with new, then bleed each corner. You' ll be surprised at how it stops now.

Next I 'd look at the wheel bearings on both sides, I guess they've never been grease or replaced.

Check the steering rack and lube it LPI#2. Check the rubber mounts to see if they have perished. This is a cause of weird steering if worn out.

The master cylinder is bound to be in it's last death throws as well. Sounds like a lot of differed maintenance.

New Master Cylinder, new calipers, new pads, wheel bearings, rear U joints, lube the hubs, anti seize on all the wheel flanges under the wire wheel splines, and just sort it out.

This is a fast car with an under engineered braking system when new.

It's simple, Bonnets cost at least $5000, brakes etc. way less than half.

You decide.

I know what I'd do.

Robert

Let me know what you find!

 

With the car sitting on the driveway, I have noticed that the brake fluid reservoir level is dropping, yet I see no fluid on the driveway or on the cardboard under the car to check for leaks. Could the reservoir be leaking into the brake booster and would that cause the pulling to the right?

The pulling to the right has gotten so bad that when I drive it around a bend or slight corner I do not have to turn the wheel. The pulling happens at all speeds, doesn't matter how fast you are going.

The rear brakes were rebuilt about two years ago and seem fine, but the emergency brake is basically useless and still won't hold on a grade. I do not see any leakage at the master cylinder.

This weekend I am having the car towed to an independent to have the car fully diagnosed and what remedies needs to be taken. The front brakes needs to be rebuilt once the pulling problem is resolved.

Once I have further news, I will respond to the forum.

Thank you for the helpful tips.

 

You mentioned that the fluid level was dropping but no leaks seemed visible and it occurs to me that it sounds like a vacuum booster is a new home for Brake fluid on this occasion. Tap gently on the side down low and listen to the sound it makes. Then try again on the upper half and see how that sounds.

Let me know that just might be a bad internal seal on that Brake booster.

Cheers

Robert

 

Robert, when I drove the car the car steered to the right at all times. The brakes seemed to stop fine and straight, no pulling sensation was felt.

The car was picked up last weekend and I am awaiting to hear back from the mechanic. I agree with you the brake fluid has to be draining into the brake booster. The car needs attention to the front end, it has served me nicely for 112k miles and needs an overhaul.

I will let the forum know the outcome on the repair as soon as I hear back from the mechanic.

 

I heard today from the mechanic about what was causing the severe steering to the right. It was caused by the steering rack becoming delaminated. I'm not sure just exactly what that means, but he is planning on removing the unit and servicing the rack or replace. He said he could hear a clicking noise as he turned the steering wheel, an indication of the steering rack skipping over a tooth inside the steering rack?

The other problem that I was having was the brake reservoir leaking, somewhere in the brake system. He found a faulty seal in the brake booster that will have to be rebuilt or replaced.
If anyone has had a similar problem I would appreciate hearing about your repair. The car is a Series 1 with 112,000 miles.

John

 

I've just replaced both servos on my Lynx XKSS due to brake fluid contamination.

 

Welsh Enterprises, Inc - Jaguar E-Type Series I Front Suspension Parts - Steering Rack Mount

John

Check out this mount that goes between the rack and chassis. The rubber can perish with age and mileage. Look for small tears between the metal and rubber on both sides for signs of delamination.

Rack could probably stand rebuilding while its out save labor cost anyway.

Cheers

Robert

 

I am ordering the new Metal Elastic steering rack mounts. Both mounts have seperated from the steel backing making the steering rack loose and causing the steering to the right. This looseness also caused the fan to strike the fan shroud.

To correct the leaking brake fluid I am ordering a new master cylinder and a brake booster rebuild kit. In addition we will install new lower ball joints.

I have attached pictures from my mechanic.

John

 

Hello John and all from down under;

I realize that your major issue has been located around the rack, but may I add a cautionary note urging you to get those brakes back up to tip-top order.

I feel I must add to the sage advice from Robert (1stjagjet) about the nature of brake fluid - and the need to keep it in the best possible condition. After more than 30 years and 120k miles with my 4.2 Series 1, and having suffered from extensive cylinder pitting requiring sleeving in its earlier years I quickly learned two important lessons ... and I make no apology for going further than Robert ... brake fluid needs changing to keep it fresh ...

1. anhydrous means it starts to degrade from the moment your open the container - even as it enters the reservoir;

2. the moisture it grabs from the atmosphere degrades the system in two ways - hi temp performance is compromised by water's lower bp; and the water content accelerates corrosion throughout the brake cylinders and lines;

3. we changed brake fluid EVERY YEAR - whether we felt it needed or not ... extravagant? Never having had to find a bonnet - even at $5k - you only have to hand over some big bucks for a complete brakes rebuild to realize that a simple DIY fluid change at $10 is peanuts;

4. last advice ... take the E for a fast run through the hills; plenty of brakes ... stop; raise bonnet feel the heat of the flexible caliper hoses ... then consider replacing them with hi temp modern non-expansive ones.

Best wishes; and do let us know how you progress.

 

Thank you cat as trophy for your advice on changing the brake fluid. I will do that every year before it goes into winter storage.
The brakes are going to be rebuilt, the calipers were rusted, pitted and the rotor's need replacing. Parts were ordered and delivered, just waiting for the call to say the car is ready for pickup. I had put off the front brake rebuild due to cost, but I am looking forward to seeing all the new parts once they have been installed.
Thanks again for the comments

 

Happy to have helped stremsjg ...

Any pictures?

When I posted earlier, I was mindful of several rather negative reviews of the E Type brakes - but that most were of the initial 3.8, and others were written of used cars some years down the road.

With all your new shiny brake bits fitted, the factory improved setup of the 4.2 and the vastly improved radial tyres we now have, I am confident that you will find your new stoppers right up there with the car's performance. Then your plan for an annual brake fluid change will help to keep it that way.

Best wishes