I'm about to go look at an '69 E-type. it has the usual quarter inch of dust, barned for God knows how long, owner turns it on once a year (which honestly sounds like it causes more damage than good but that's just me). The pictures look very promising, reported rust is on a wheel well but guestimating by it I'd expect to find more in other places. Broken driver window which seems to be a lot cheaper than I was expecting. Interior looks actually fairly decent, I would have to remove the grime to see what's under. I'll see the car in the flesh either this evening or this weekend.

Then I'm looking at an out of state '71 e-type. Respray paint worn but not too horrible, interior is tired but seems like it could be spruced up, specially if the leather is darkened to even it out. It runs strong thanks to its Ford V8...

Hm... an all original money pit that won't see the light of day for some time vs. a car that can be enjoyed while restoring interior and body... Not to mention that I already would have to sell my soul to the devil just to have enough times to finish all my projects in my lifetime... The rationalization (because when it comes to vintage cars I'm a master at rationalizing stuff) would be to get the one with the V8 drive it, enjoy it, restore it, and eventually hunt down the proper jag motor for it.

But then again, barn find... There is something about working on those. Or thinking about working on those because with all my projects that may not happen anytime soon... :-\

Here is Barney

 

I would honestly take the one with the V8, running, and driving, as that's a lot more fun. I'm fixin to turn 60 next month, and have also figured out, that I don't have enough life (and I'm Healthy) left, to finish my projects. I'm in the process of a major build, of My 89 XJS, and a 460 Ford, and unless I find a way, "not" to have to work for a living??? Anyone got any Ideas I'm open to suggestions.

 

I'm thorn. both should be $20k; the V8 after some haggling, the barn was telegraphed at that price and being firm.

The V8 engine is a 289, not even the decency to have a peppy V8. The transmission is also not original, another ding. The V8 is also not local so there are the not so insignificant shipping charges.

I'll take a look at the barn one next to see what's what. In the mean time these are the pictures of the V8, minus engine compartment because that one is not something even I want to look at.

 

OK the barn find is going to be wicked expensive and I'll bet you never finish it. At least you could experience the V8 car. Both are 2+2s so you could actually buy a decent one for about twice the cash or about 1/5th to 1/10 of what it would take to restore that barn car. That's a lot of rust...

Depending on the engine and what is under the car the V8 could be interesting it has air conditioning (assuming that works) and some work with leather conditioner might clean up a lot of that interior. Seat covers are around $700 for the pair and if you want an interior kit figure on $1,500 to start depending on how complete you want it. Dash top needs to be preplaced too. You can find leather for it, the door panels, sun visors, shift boot, and even the front of the dash on eBay for about $100 a segment. But, depending on what it is we don't see, you could turn that into a nice driver from around $10K, the barn find add at least one zero.

 

Regarding the 'barny' if that much rust is visible, then it needs a full body restoration. Very time consuming and very expensive. In the end you have a nice series II 2+2 and will never recoup your investment. Even the series III might have some nasty surprises inside the sills. These old cars rust from the inside out so it would be best to only consider one that has full documented of repairs to sills panels and floors. I purchased mine knowing the body was reasonable since it was restored 18 yrs ago, but still took me 3 yrs working out all the mechanical issues.

 

Even from the little that can be seen, it needs a total restoration. There are three options:

1. you are obscenely wealthy and can pay to have a specialist rebuild it for you in 12 months
2. you are very rich and have the interest and skills to project manage the restoration with specialist help where required over about 5 years
3. you are comfortably off and can DIY the entire project over 10 years

Whichever it is, buying a fully restored example will cost less. However, if you have the dedication and determination, bringing it back to life will be enormously satisfying.

Graham

 

So how'd it go? Did you buy one of them?

 

I'm pursuing the one with the V8 motor on it. I'm about to have it independently inspected. I figure there is plenty of money to throw at it on the interior and body before worrying about the engine. Eventually I can ponder whether to hunt down the correct engine or keep it outlaw with a new Winsor engine that matches the performance of the V12 but without the expense. My main interest is to daily drive this car so eventually I may even come to terms with the fact that the engine is not original.

Frankly I'm surprised there wasn't a more universal aversion to the wrong engine. Porsche people get all twitchy when the subject comes up.

 

We have many alternative powertrains across the model forums and they don't often receive adverse comments. Quite right too. In many cases it has been done as an alternative to scrapping the vehicle.

The E-Type is different to most other Jaguar models in terms of 'collectability' and therefore value. They take a lot of time, effort and money to restore and the resulting value lies in a combination or originality and history. Anything other than the original factory specification scythes through the value. As you are more concerned with enjoying ownership as a daily driver (and that is now a rare and laudable intention), the robust V8 seems a far more practical proposition than the sometimes temperamental Jaguar V12. Returning it to originality can wait until, or even if, you ever decide you want to part with it.

Graham

 

Nice thing about a 2+2, well there are several actually, is that you don't really have to worry about resale that much. Though taking it back to stock you'd likely save a ton just by buying a stock car in the first place. 2+2s tend to be pretty reasonable. Just enjoy that cabin space and realize you'll be one of the few e-type drivers that don't need to visit a chiropractor regularly. As far as engines, were it me, I'd be seeing if I could get a Coyote engine to fit. Didn't think of that myself until too late. An LS is likely an easier choice but damn a Coyote in an XKE would be cool. In any case best of luck and please post your progress!

 

Yeah, if you got bucket loads of money a Coyote would be nice, but you'd have to re engineer everything. The Jag already has a Windsor, and the driveline to go with it. The simplest choice is, to put a stroked 351 Windsor in it. Which can go all the way up to 427,+ cubic inches. Hey wow a British Sports Car with a 427 Ford???????? Hum makes me think somebody already did this, and they called it a Cobra!!! Just a little Humor.

Jack

 

Were I to stick with a ford engine I would do a high performance 302. It would be much lighter and could still make to squeeze 345hp or so without much wallet pain. Better yet, i could incrementally build the current engine (high end aluminum heads, intake, carb, stainless steel header and exhaust) and when the time came get the brand new high end 302 block and swap all the parts into it.

honestly, 345hp are more ponies than I would know what to do with :}

 

Here is an idea for a target: https://www.whichcar.com.au/features...-jaguar-e-type

A suggestion do a full engine analysis before you start, wish I'd done that, would have saved a few thousand and I'd have gone with a different configuration. Metal in the oil can showcase engine problems you can't see. (I had so many I'm surprised the damn thing ran).

 

Things are looking good. Car getting inspected today, bank loan is set, shipping quotes are being requested. Bar anything fugly I should get this baby in a few weeks.

What would be the correct way to coat the inside panels? In the past I had great success with POR-15 but that stuff loves to go on perfectly virgin metal with an acid etch. It looks like there are lots of nooks and crannies that would fight to the death attempts to strip them to bare metal.

I'm also waiting for a borescope so I can actually see what's what.

 

Here is a reference (I've always left this up to the paint shop): http://www.comparaboo.com/rust-treatments?origin=bing&utm_source=bing&utm_medium= cpc&utm_content=BingYahoo&utm_campaign=276821787&b ingcampaignid=276821787&bingadgroupid=121935849968 8715&bingadid=76209935159032&bingbidmatchtype=bb&b ingdevice=c&bingmatchtype=b&bingorderitemid={Orede rItemId}&bingquerystring=automotive%20anti%20rust% 20products&keyword=rust%20treatments&bingtargetid= kwd-76209980174948:loc-190&appId=1&rme=p&dest=1&sys_id=1 279&dist=bingyahoo

 

I recently bought a 1971 2+2 v12 rhat had a Chevy v8 swap done in the '70s. It needed brake work an engine freshening and a good cleaning. It got- new engine, new radiator, new bushings, rebuilt power steering rack, new ac, new front shocks, rebuilt master cylinder and booster, and a few other items. Still needs new headliner, maybe rear bushings and shocks. Overall, about $10,000 in work, but the 350 makes about 100hp and 100tq more than the v12 coud have on a good day AND with aluminum heads, intake and radiator with an aluminum serpentine accessory kit, probably over 200lbs less on the front suspension. The ac is being hooked up this morning and the hood goes back on this afternoon. SO.. tune the 289 and enjoy this year. If you want more power than the v12 could have offered, toss in a 347 this winter its a bolt in replacement for the 289 (coyote wont fit)

 

What radiator did you end up using for this build?

 

Update: After long delays the car is on the hands of the shipper, I should get a hold of it by August 1st.

The original photos do not do justice to the poor condition the paint and interior, which looks like a bad spray can job that is crackling and peeling off. Heck the way I see it this was a stroke of luck, it factored into the final price and was planning on a paint job anyways. Interiors are sad but you can work magic with leather. The plan so far is to make sure the engine is sound and if so, I'll throw the money at a full rubber kit, body, paint, spruce up the interior, and the missing bits and pieces (side reflector, rear glass chrome trim, etc). Obviously I also need a good stereo...

Here are some pictures of Mr. Scruffy:






Metal wise the inspector found it pretty bone dry with a bit of surface rust here and there. Once I start pulling stuff apart and get to inspect it with a borescope I'll know what I really have.

Engine wise I'll hunt down a spare 302 block which are a dime a dozen, and have it machined to take a nice Edelbrok top end heads/intake/cam. It should not be hard to get 350hp which should be plenty for my daily driving ways. For the most part it needs a lot of elbow grease to get things squeaky clean. Based on pictures I can see leaky head gaskets, water pump, grime everywhere, which is all a fun way to spend an afternoon fixing.

 

Not to bad, other then the crappy / old paint, It looks very solid. Do a good job prepping it, and new paint will hide a multitude of sin

 

I used an American Eagle 1052 radiator 2 row aluminum built for a c4 1990 Corvette with a flex a lite electric fan. The fan hardly ever runs.