[QUOTE=mpawelek;2909501]The best attempt at documenting S2 parts is Rich Ligget's S2 Parts Manual. It doesn't completely fix the problems, but it's more closer than the usual sources:

XKEBooks.com

 

Here's a photo snip I took of a 1967 that's on a Hagerty auction. It shows a bit of the breather hose at the front of the engine. That hose is then NOT connected to the the back end of the filter plenum. Not sure if OPs carb setup looks like this.

 

Someone removed the hose. The fitting is right there:

 

hi and just interested to see where you are with your E?

Post photos if you can!

 

Pulled it out yesterday, found that this hose goes down to chassis and is zip tied to the frame……it does not go anywhere,just vents. Found no other possible leak….big hoses all good.
Filled rad, several times, and it didn’t take more than about 6 litres antifreeze. After replacing one little hose from heater box to dash that was cracked, I ran the car , cycled warm up and cooled down 3 times…. Still a little snow around, so couldn’t drive it. I’ll check it again today after full cool down, drive it coming in a couple days, but watching gauge, it appears to be showing pretty normal rise and fall of water temp….no spike in temp.
previous owner had done a few mods while doing full 5 year restoration of the car. He swapped out carbs to SUs, added switch for rad fan, and other stuff as well. He then promptly dies a week after I bought it from him, and wonder if he had added a pressure relief of some kind to this cooling system….. he was that kind of guy. Dunno…grasping at straws at this point, cuz I got it good and hot, and no leaking anywhere. In my researching, I have read about others installing a relief valve, but wasn’t really paying attention to details.
I guess I’m just going to keep filling till I’m convinced it’s full, under close watch…..I’m not quite convinced yet…..when it lost water last month, I thought it dropped more than the approx 6-7 litres antifreeze I’ve put in….i could be wrong of course….there was alotta steam, and me freaking out….was entirely my fault it happened….had car cover blocking airflow. Ya….no brain that day. Cheers.

 

As stated before that hose was probably left over from the carburetor exchange and made into a road draft tube.

To completely fill the cooling system you will have to get the engine up to running temperature, let it cool overnight, then check the fluid level in the overflow tank. It will probably be low several times until the system is purged of air.

 

...to check what caps the PO put on the radiator and on the overflow ( mounted in drivers side / left side US cars... a little black tank. A blanking cap goes on the radiator and a 7 -13 lb cap goes on the overflow. There should be a narrow hose running from the radiator to that overflow. The overflow tank is where you check the coolant level, after you are satisfied that you have the system filled. This tank acts as a relief valve. Some park the car on an incline, take both caps off, run the engine, kind of a burp job. The temp needle should be on the O or R of NORMAL on the gauge.
I can post photos of all this so you are sure you have identified these components. You are doing a good job of being cautious and careful until you get to know the car better and to trust it.
Do you know about putting lubricant in the SU carbs?. Id also check the diif fluid in the rear and make sure the two brake fluid reservoirs and the clutch fluid reservoir have sufficient fluid. Another maintenance task would be to check each wire wheel for grease on the splines. Keep up the good work and let us know how you are getting on.

 

Didn’t get to check on it today, will tomorrow.
what oil and quantity/level for the carbs?
All the other stuff u mention already attended to.
Again, thanx for your help.
Weather has turned against us here,a little snow last night…probably a good thing, so I’m not tempted to rush it.
cheers

 

There is regular dashpot SU oil that is sold

https://www.sngbarratt.com/English(U...gnDCerDix901fJ

I don't want to start WWJaguarDashpotOil here, so here are what other owners use.... sewing machine oil (reputed to be 20w), regular straight 20w oil, regular straight 30w oil. Personally, in all my BCs.. whether they were SUs or Strommies, I used Automatic Transmission Fluid. A British leyland mechanic shared a factory TSB with me that recommended it. Much depends on your weather and your climate. I live in Wisconsin, so the car may be driven early spring (like now) or late fall.. late October. The reason for the ATF is that it maintains its viscosity no matter what the ambient temperature is. Another important thing is to check the clink of the carbs piston. take the air cleaner off and gently raise the piston and let it fall. It should fall nice and even and not get hung up.
To check the level/amount of damper/dashpot oil, you don't want to fill it up to the top of the brim/neck. There are many opinions of how far up to fill it, but I usually eyeball it to be a tad lower than where the pot neck ends. When you replace the cap with the little piston on it, you should feel a bit of resistance.
Here is a link to a forum thread on that:

https://forums.jag-lovers.com/t/su-c...tor-oil/423077

 

On the recommendation of a local mechanic who has worked on vintage jaguars for over 45 years I use Type F. ATF. I use the Type F in my automatic transmission, power steering and carburetors. Makes it easier than multiple fluids and the previous owner did so for 12 years also.

 

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ATF I got. thanx lots.