How much should I expect to pay for a new clutch? ('73)
Just got the BAD news that it's a big job and a major PITA to replace the clutch. There is over an inch of travel at the top of the pedal. When I try to take off in first gear, it is slipping pretty well......;-(. It ALSO will need a steering box - I think, based upon how the wheel has about 2 inches of play as it goes down the road. Part of the problem could be the fact that the brake fluid reservoir top is NOT sealed and I have some 100mph tape sorta holding in place for the moment. It's full of fluid but if its not sealed then I think it can't function as designed....!
What say you all, oh Sage Wise Jag experts??
What say you all, oh Sage Wise Jag experts??
Unfortunately you're right about the clutch being an expensive job. I've not yet done mine so can't tell you the cost but from what I understand it's a bonnet off, partial engine removal job. As to the steering I'm not sure what the brake fluid reservoir would have to do with that. If it's the power steering pump cap you're missing that's an easy one - it's a common GM pump and a replacement cap can be found on the shelf at a good auto parts store or from the usual online parts resources. The PS pump cap shouldn't affect the play in the wheel though. Look for play in the joints between the steering wheel and the steering rack (there is no "box" per se) and wiggle the front wheels side to side (with them off the ground of course) to look for play in the ball joints and tie rods. If those both look solid then you're likely looking at a rack rebuild.
Unfortunately you're right about the clutch being an expensive job. I've not yet done mine so can't tell you the cost but from what I understand it's a bonnet off, partial engine removal job. As to the steering I'm not sure what the brake fluid reservoir would have to do with that. If it's the power steering pump cap you're missing that's an easy one - it's a common GM pump and a replacement cap can be found on the shelf at a good auto parts store or from the usual online parts resources. The PS pump cap shouldn't affect the play in the wheel though. Look for play in the joints between the steering wheel and the steering rack (there is no "box" per se) and wiggle the front wheels side to side (with them off the ground of course) to look for play in the ball joints and tie rods. If those both look solid then you're likely looking at a rack rebuild.
It's a drop the engine job. Either bonnet off and lift engine, or drop engine and lift body. So cost depends on how much per hour your mechanics charge. The cost of the clutch itself is minimal in comparison. If your car is a series 3, I believe you can do the clutch (just) without engine removal, but still a long process.
It rather depends on the condition of various items. For example, taking the bonnet off shouldn't take too long, but if it hasn't been done for year, it can take time heating things to let them release. My bonnet was a nightmare when it was first done, but it's easy now. I'd have thought more in the order of 40 hours?
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