Tie it down to the chassis in cross patterns, tighter in the front than in the rear. If the rear is too tight there is a better chance of something snapping. Just my 2 cents on how I was told to do it by a friend that owns a tow company.

 

Big is right. Go from the front at each boot and cross to the opposing side in the rear, then do the same for the rear. I generally tow a car in neutral rather than park (that way, it has a bit of moving room in the tranny should one of the tie-downs come loose).

Start tightening the ones hooked to the rear, then tighten the front ones until the car doesn't move back and forth. E-types have a low-enough center of gravity that you don't have to worry about your car rolling sideways due to roll (side to side movement) around curves.

jag is a spammer.

 

I trailed my '63 Series 1 FHC 450 km on a lovely borrowed springless trailer just tying down the four wheels' lower rims threading strapping through the spokes. travelled at 110 km/hr all the way. Manual was in neutral and most of the load was protected by the car's suspension which remained free to work.

No trouble and would do it again any time. Hardly knew it was there.

GrahamAT

 

Neal,

Out of interest, if its recently been restored why isnt it a driver?

These cars are so much happier being driven

 

Neal, Car is very much a driver. We were moving house and there were three cars and two drivers. Jag gets 20 km once a week and 140 km once a month, as a rule.