Hi guys I'm the proud owner of a 69 E type Coupe after a 2 year search and several thousands of miles flying. And I found this one 100 miles from where I live.


I'm sure I'll have many questions as I sort the car out but the first one is how to remove the seats. They don't more forward or backward but the seat backs do recline.
This should be fairly basic because I also own 4 MGs and they just bolt in from the top of the rail, but on the E type I can't move the seats to find any bolts. Any advice much appreciated.


Andy

 

Hi Andy, I'm fairly new to this forum. I own a 68 E type FHC. Haven't had the seats out in years but, if I remember correctly there are four bolt holding each seat in. You are going to have to move the seat fore and aft to access them. Finding out why yours don't move is the first thing to do. See if anything is in the track blocking them from moving. If not chances are the mechanism just needs lubed. The seats rarely get moved so that is probably the problem.

 

Well, there are two stud-style bolts in the front...They don't come out,,,
Move the seats all the way forward on the slides...That will expose the rear bolt heads.
Remove the rear bolts ....
Now lift the rear of the seat up, and slide it backward (takes a little muscle)...That will get the seat off of the front studs.
When you look at the mounts...The front of the slides are only a two-pronged fork, that slip under each front stud.
Hope that helps.
Edward

 

Thanks for the advice guys. At least I now know how they should come out. I don't think the seats have been moved in over 10 years so may be a little stuck to say the least.


Thanks again,
Andy

 

Hello Andy . . . and greetings from an enthusiast in Australia.

Our 35+years love affair with the '64 Series1 4.2L E-Type as 2nd owners is the basis for offering you the same advice I was fortunately given all those years ago. For more reasons than perhaps any other classic Jaguar, get yourself a factory workshop manual.

Forget the generic 100 page "How to" guides by the popular press . . . get the real McCoy. Some 35 years ago, mine cost an absolute fortune . . . saw another last month on eBay for $50 but wasn't quick enough. I don't know what form the Series2 manual took. All the Series1 manuals were written from the perspective of the 3.8L, but with a copious 4.2L Supplement . . . all in a thick lever arch format. Best investment you will make in maintaining and preserving your E-Type.

Best wishes,
Ken

 

For what it's worth, I have two original 3.8/4.2 manuals (old hard-cover type)...A lot of the bits of info, especially on the body and electrical parts, are very different ...Trying to look up info in the old manual for the series 2 cars is difficult.
One example was the horn....Series one cars have the horn on the steering wheel, while series two cars have it on the stalk...The entire mechanism is totally different....
I am looking for a series 2 workshop manual, but haven't found one...I would gladly trade one of my older manuals , if anyone out there is interested. (The manuals are used, but complete).
Edward

 

Hi guys I've tried and tried but both my seats are stuck solid. They wont move forwards or backwards. Fortunately they are adjusted correctly for me but I'd still like to remove the seats to replace the carpet under them. The release levers appear to be working and I've even had a friend push and pull why I held the release lever over but with no luck they are solid.


Any ideas greatly appreciated.


Thanks Andy

 

release sprays like WD40 might be useful, and tapping the seat front with a hammer down at the rail may start things moving.

 

Best rust loosener, IMHO , is a mixture of 50/50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone...
Put together in a spray bottle or brush on...Shake well before using....Spray or brush it on
as much of the track as you can see...Then have someone hold the release, while you tap the upper track backward, using a piece of hardwood, hit with a mallet....Be sure the seat back is upright, away from the rear deck...Do a little at a time on each side...Continue spraying or brushing the lubricant onto the exposed portions of the track.
Once it is as far back as it will go, try levering the seat bottom forward, using a good long stick or crow bar...again with the lever held open....
Let us know how it works.
P.S.
Chances are that the seat track is well rusted to the carpet, as well.

Edward

 

Hi guys and thanks for your helpful suggestions. On further investigation I've found that the PO installed home type insulation (foil backed bubble type) for home heating ducting on the floors prior to installing the carpet and seats. The bubbles have burst where the bolts screw down into the floor curving the rails into a bow shape. Which is why they won't budge. They look to be in good shape except for the bow shape.

The only thing I can think of is to try and loosen the bolts from under the car and take the pressure off the rails. And maybe they'll straighten out a bit. There's about 1/2" of thread poking down under the captive nut so with a stud removal tool I might be able to back them out a bit and hopefully release some of the pressure off the rail.

I'll let you know if it works.

Thanks

Andy

 

Hi guys, I'm pleased to tell you that it worked. I was able to loosen the seat rail bolts from under the car using the double looknut method and lots of WD40 and lots of patience. I was then able to move the seats forward by scooting back and forth in the seat until I could access the rear bolts. And then the seat came out fairly easily.


Thanks again for all your support.


Andy

 

Good to hear that.