Changed out oil today at 1500 miles.

The oil extraction and oil filter removal/replacement process was straightforward. But, as with any new situation, there are lessons learned. Here are mine:

1. Oil. The Jaguar-specified oil, WSS-M2C925-A, is difficult to find, as others have said. Mobil 1 and other extended synthetics show a WSS-M2C945-A spec, but not "925-A." I called Jaguar Corporate who told me (as they have others) that they have an exclusive arrangement with Castrol. To respect the warranty, I ended up picking up the "925-A" oil at my dealer, at $12/Qt. I'm exploring options the next time around. I noted the "925-A" oil is available on Ebay. (Note: Castol's "SLX" and "Edge" appear the same in spec. The "Edge" name is newer. )

2. Oil Filter. Went with the OEM oil filter sourced through my dealer. Part #C2D3670. I prefer Mann filters, but I see that Mahle and others also make a C2D3670 substitute. Here too, I plan to do research both on sourcing and pricing.

3. Oil Extractor. Used a Mityvac oil extractor, model MV-7201. The MV-7201 is an updated (read: better) model from the 07201 model. Something with the sealing. Didn't question it--just went with the MV-7201. My first time with extraction. Very smooth. I ended up simply using the larger rubber hose (6.6mm) on the oil extraction tube under the oil filter cap. After the first two pumps, up comes the oil. Make sure the engine is at operating temp before extracting--it made the oil flow quickly. 10-min extraction time. I even used the extractor to suck out the residual oil from the oil filter housing. Nice.

4. Oil Filter Cap. I used an Assenmacher oil filter cap wrench. #JA19015. 90mm. 15 flats. There are many caps out there. I prefer Assenmacher's quality. asttool.com

5. Oil Filter Cap Torque. Nice of Jaguar to show the 25N-m torque on the cap. If you don't use a torque wrench, at least mark the filter housing with a paint mark so you can approximate the factory setting. (This tip only works if you are undolng the oil filter cap for the first time.)



6. Electronic Oil Sensor. I like a dipstick. I like a dipstick. OK, rant over. To give me some idea of the oil level display calibration in the instrument panel, I added 7.0 Qts. The display showed one level below "Max." I then added .6 Qt. and the display showed "Max."





7. Oil Consumption. I was pleased to see almost 7.2L in the extractor reservoir after 1500 miles. Looks like ring seal/break-in is going good. Sending for oil analysis. I expect good results.

 

Thanks for posting. I'm thinking of doing the same, am at around the same mileage.

Did you do the change at a dealer or at a 3rd party shop?

 

In my case, the first oil/filter change was free at the dealership.??

 

My first service is free, so I'd rather keep it for a full service than just an oil change

 

I was "told" my first service is free as well but at 15k miles?

 

The V8S told me the oil change would be at 5k miles.
(unless they did it early when I was there for a paint issue, but that would have been at sub 500 miles)

As for first free service - I don't think they look at what number service it is, but rather you get a specific service at a specific interval, and you don't pay for it. It is the first one - and they are assuming you haven't done anything to it.

I've never seen a case where a dealer says "oh, you already did it? our bad - next one is on us then."

So you changed the oil, and then when you go in for your first service, they will change it again and anything else they do on that service.

If the service is just an oil change and you do it yourself, it can hurt resale value if the entity will want to see the logs/receipts of it being done at the dealer.
Irrelevant if you are keeping the car forever.

 

My dealer offers a 6-mos oil change and the first-year maintenance free. But, I change oil at least twice/year (especially in the first 1200-1500 miles) in my garage so I can check oil consumption, oil cap torque, etc.

As far as maintenance from a dealer, I guess it depends on one's comfort level working on cars. I'm fortunate I was able to repair both domestic and foreign cars as a hobby, e.g., building engines, integrating and mapping electronics, etc. I check off each maintenance item myself on a regular basis.

That said, I won't hesitate to bring my Jag into the dealer for its annual check-up. (Want to show responsible maintenance, especially under warranty.) The dealer may even find an ongoing problem of which I was unaware. Not too proud to defer to the techs who have the in-depth expertise, especially since so many more of a car's mechanical components have become computer-controlled.

 

You raise a great point. Some buyers may only want work performed at a dealer. While I have not experienced that situation myself in selling, I can see it occurring.

 

It seems to be less of a big deal until you get to older cars and/or collectibles - but sometimes you just get that person who is a stickler.
(I don't think it is that they want the work done at the dealer, but that is the easiest way to see proof of the servicing and expected level of work done - regardless of how true that is)

 

I took mine in for the free 1 yr/15K service, and they did a few recall items, most of which are probably fixed on your newer Fs. I had the locking cubby that would fall open when you locked the car. And they updated the firmware. And they rerouted a harness under the roof to avoid wear points (I hadn't heard of that one.)


But the first service is an opportunity for them to fix known issues.

 

Are you saying there is no oil drain bolt? I wasn't aware of the "oil extraction tube" under the filler cap. Makes sense I guess, just never did an oil change that way.

 

I wish Jaguar still offered free maintenance on their cars. My XJL purchase included 4 years free maintenance plus normal wear/tear items (brakes, rotors, windshield wipers, etc) except for tires. Unfortunately, it was only offered in MY2011 and they stopped offering it for later models.

 

Not saying a oil drain plug does not exist. My local parts guy tells me a plug does exist for the 5.0L V8; however, since I extracted the oil, I did not pull down the engine undercover(s) to confirm same.

I sense many of the threads on this topic can be traced to extraction. It appears to be the preferred choice for draining the oil for many, including dealers. Without the engineered availability of the extraction tube, I wouldn't have made an attempt to snake a hose down through the filler cap opening and past the timing chain in what would likely have been a failed attempt to extract all the oil. I would have simply used the drain plug (which I hope would be there, heh).

 

That is correct.

 

My dealer told me 12 months (+/- 1 month), or 15K miles (+/- 1K miles) for it to be free. Something like that. But your dealer may be more flexible.

 

Results of first oil analysis--no problema. Other than having a baseline now, I really look for lab values twice their universal average before thinking about sending up a distress flare.

Sometimes the story is there is no story....

F-Type R - Blackstone Report @ 1467 mi (07-25-2014) 016.pdf

 

delta, did your oil analysis show a lot of debris, etc. that would warrant an early oil change? debating if getting an early 1,000-1,500 oil change is worth it or just do the normal manufacturer schedule.

 

Good question, Shift. Nothing in the Blackstone's analysis would have warranted the early oil change, if by debris, you mean an early deterioration of an engine element (e.g., copper (bearings) as opposed to silicon or molybdenum (assembly).

That said, I changed the oil early (and will change in any future performance vehicle) for a number of reasons--

The Owners Manual/Handbooks (though not Jaguar) for many performance vehicles specify early oil changes, e.g, M3/M4, GT-R, etc., in the first 1200-1500 miles; I have yet to see any solid evidence of a "break-in" factory fill in modern close-tolerance engines that calls for waiting to change the oil until reaching x,xxx miles; My motor happens to either have a "power-adder," supercharged/turbo-charged or a high redline (8000 or more rip-em's) that creates additional stress; And, I want a baseline from which to gauge the health of my motor, especially if under warranty;

There may be a fine line between maintaining and "over-maintaining." But, where engine oil is concerned, I choose the latter, heh.

 

deltagroup,
I have always changed the oil in my vehicles. That being said, do you or could you provide pictures/commentary on how to remove the plastic engine cover? I could probably figure it out when the oil filters arrive but I would rather avoid breaking any plastic clips. I will drive the car on ramps and figure out the drain plugs. I see that Walmart carries the Castrol edge 0w-20 in 5 quart containers. Thanks in advance if you can help.

 

You are much better off having the dealer change the oil with proper oil & factory filter. It will eliminate any questions down the road if you have a mechanical problem. Your first oil change is free @ 1 year or 15000 miles. They do ask for a service history when doing major engine repairs & I have seen repairs denied. I know Castrol Edge is similar but it is not the oil specified for your engine. Do your self a favor & don't be penny wise & pound foolish. Just my opinion nothing more nothing less.