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Dynamic mode should give the same effect as removing the fuse (it does in my MY18) - the button is not, IMO, very useful except for turning off the noise in dynamic mode.
Yep, same here, I drive in Dynamic mode at all times and the only time I hit the exhaust button is to turn off the drone when cruising on the freeway or going up a hill.
Dynamic mode should give the same effect as removing the fuse (it does in my MY18) - the button is not, IMO, very useful except for turning off the noise in dynamic mode.
For my MY18 with active exhaust but no button, Dynamic without the fuse is definitely louder at lower RPMs than Dynamic with the fuse.
Cgo, have you found that cabin noise is uncomfortable when freeway cruising for example ? I have found that my 2021 has definitely gotten louder with the valves open but not in the dynamic mode as I have put more miles on it. In the manual mode above 4000 rpm I get a lot of crackles when I back off the throttle. Fun when driving on the twisties around here. But I also like a quiet cabin on a long freeway drive when listening to music too.
I think I'll pull fuse 15 today and go for a run and see the difference. Any danger of long term damage to the cats from having the valves open all the time ?
Not at all. Cruising speeds it's still quiet inside.
Dynamic mode should give the same effect as removing the fuse (it does in my MY18) - the button is not, IMO, very useful except for turning off the noise in dynamic mode.
nope, at least in the 2021. With the fuse in, the valves dont open until 3500 rpm.
I pulled fuse # 15 and went for about a 20 mile drive down the winding highway. It is without a doubt much louder. And louder than when in the standard drive mode with the valves open via the button on the console. With the fuse out, if you press the console button it blinks a few times, probably to show a fault, and then the light goes out. I had the transmission in the Sport mode and was using the paddle shifters. It was not however in Dynamic mode.
It started to roar at about 2000 RPM instead of the usual 3500 RPM and I was getting crackles and pops as low as about 2200-2300 RPM when letting off the gas. It was fun, but I'm not sure that I'll leave the fuse out. I'll need to make a short freeway run too and see if it is unbearable. Too bad the console switch doesn't get the exact same effect as pulling the fuse. DJS has a good idea with a relay but I don't want to go to that effort while the car is still under warranty.
But did I mention that it was fun ????
Hi,
can it be that with a cold start the flaps are still more open than in dynamic mode with the flap open at 3500 rmp?
Thank you so much for your answer
BR
Andi
I like DJS' idea of a switch to open or close the valves circuit. I'm thinking that one of these doodads plugged into the fuse # 15 or # 43 location and wired to a switch that could be mounted in an unobtrusive place in the cabin would do the trick.
I would assume that you would still need a 5 amp fuse somewhere in the circuit to protect the system when the switch was closed. I just don't know enough about automobile electronics to design the device and not blow something up. Like what type of switch (single pole/single throw or a double pole/single throw, etc.) and where in the circuit to insert a fuse holder and fuse ? There is probably a convenient location on the firewall where a wire can be poked through and maintain the weatherproofing that is needed. The fuse holder can be inside the cabin. At least I can solder competently.
Components are available from a source like Digikey.com
Perhaps an interested member who is knowledgeable in these kinds of electronic projects can sketch out a simple design, recommend what gauge wire to use and that kind of thing ?
Last edited by Dwight Frye; Oct 18, 2021 at 11:47 AM.
That's interesting. It looks like the two spade lugs slip into where the lugs on the fuse normally connect and it has an additional ground wire plus it is fuse protected. The remote fob could be kept in the center console.
But at the current exchange rate that's about $100 USD plus shipping to the US. I'm thinking a manually switched device could be assembled for around a third of that cost.
Certainly - a toggle switch in series with the fuse does the same thing for less money, but then you have to find somewhere to mount it and run wires.. Someone here mentioned a Homelink-controlled relay, so it could be switched with one of the garage door buttons (though I use all 3.)
Yes they do - their resting position is open, and it takes vacuum to close them. The only solution I can think of (which I think others have done) is to fit a switch or relay that would let you energize the electric vacuum pump prior to starting the engine.
Do we know that pulling the fuse actually opens the valve more than being in Dynamic mode? I read on this thread that is the same but also saw others say it’s different. I see no point in adding a switch unless there’s actual confirmation…as your basically adding another “Dynamic” switch.
It is absolutely different on my car - my valves are NOT open 100% of the time in dynamic; they’re, well, dynamic. Since mine squeak, I can hear them opening and closing at idle. And going from a stop at moderate throttle growls much more with the fuse out. And, with the fuse out and the top up, it drones pretty badly at highway speeds; doesn’t do this in dynamic with the fuse in.
Others report later MYs may be different. I can only tell you how mine behaves. (I have active exhaust, but not switchable active exhaust).
Do we know that pulling the fuse actually opens the valve more than being in Dynamic mode? I read on this thread that is the same but also saw others say it’s different. I see no point in adding a switch unless there’s actual confirmation…as your basically adding another “Dynamic” switch.
just pull the fuse and go for a drive. If you dont like it, put it back in. Takes less than 5 minutes, no harm, no foul.
It is absolutely different on my car - my valves are NOT open 100% of the time in dynamic; they’re, well, dynamic. Since mine squeak, I can hear them opening and closing at idle. And going from a stop at moderate throttle growls much more with the fuse out. And, with the fuse out and the top up, it drones pretty badly at highway speeds; doesn’t do this in dynamic with the fuse in.
Others report later MYs may be different. I can only tell you how mine behaves. (I have active exhaust, but not switchable active exhaust).
no drone for me but I have a coupe. At highway speeds, I'm just cruising at about 1200 rpms. Its pretty quiet to me until you gas it.
An update to my BSM and cross traffic issue. I pulled the fuse, flipped it, and put it back in. It's been working ever since. Weird. Possibly a contact issue with the fuse. Maybe there was some residue or something on the contacts. Fingers crossed.
