Hello,

Just wrapped up the 1st oil change on my '23. 1000 miles, two months after delivery, and about four months since the factory fill. It is a P450 and 7.5 Liters came out. Oil was darker than you would expect given the age and mileage. My cost was $85 for oil and filter. Here's some pics for those who may be interested in at-home oil changes:

 

I see you used 5W-20 oil whereas the specced oil is 0W-20, if you have a serious engine or engine related problem you may have trouble with a warranty claim.
Yes, I know, lots of debate and millions of words written around "best" and "correct" weight engine oil for the AJ133SC among which there is a school of thought that 0W-20 is too thin especially in a hot climate (such as Florida) and 5W-20 would be marginally better, just sayin' about a potential warranty claim issue.

 

Thanks and I had debated going 0W20 vs 5W20. As you mentioned, where I live (Florida) and with the car always garaged it never sees temps below freezing, and really almost never is "cold started" below 50 deg F. I considered even going 10W30 for these warmer conditions but decided to wait until the warranty was up to run those slightly thicker weights.

 

Also just a reminder that oil does not meet Jaguar specs for the vehicle, regardless of viscosity. It may not matter if you change more often than necessary, but just making you aware.

 

At the risk of instigating another lengthy discussion on engine oil

Has anyone EVER had JLR analyze engine oil after an engine failure?

Our '14 says to use 5W-20 on the cap.
And, the Pennzoil Ultra meets the specs that were in effect at the time of the car's introduction.
Besides, our yearly oil change happens when the oil is only 2 - 4K miles old.

I'm sure that JLR hasn't changed any engine specs that significantly require the new specs they publish. Sure, if run to the 16,000 mile OCI that JLR recommend, you might need some enhanced wear capabilities.

 

I also did my own oil change at about 1250 miles on my 2021 F Type R. I didn't want to wait until a year was up to have the dealer do the first change for free under the warranty. I also used a Mityvac which was a pleasure after about 50 years of crawling around under my vehicles to do oil changes the traditional way.

I bought the specified Castrol Edge Professional EC5 0W-20 oil at the dealership and bought the filter online. The cost at that time was around $120 for the materials. I live in the Southern California mountains and the temperatures rarely drop below about 20 degrees F and I don't drive my Jag in those conditions anyway. However in the summer, temperatures can exceed 110 degrees F, especially if crossing the desert regions. But I'm sticking with what JLR says regarding the oil, at least while still under warranty.

One thing of note, I did have a Blackstone oil analysis done on a sample of that oil from the first change. They noted a high titanium content compared to averages and a much lower molybdenum content than averages. I was surprised by this, especially the moly reading. The Castrol Edge Professional EC5 formula is specially blended by Castrol for JLR. They must have a reason for their formula regarding the titanium and moly. The current (as of 2018) spec for the oil is STJLR.03.5006. I believe only a couple of oils will meet that specification.

Will your engine grenade if you don't use the specified oil ? Probably not. But I'll stick with what the JLR engineers say on my $120k car.

 

^^^ Moly is probably assembly lube from when the engine was assembled.

And Titanium? Advertised as wear protection by Castrol.

"Castrol EDGE with Fluid TITANIUM Technology transforms to be stronger under pressure and reduces friction to unlock true engine performance."

 

Thank you for the great photos! How messy is taking the filter off/out? Is the filter 'wrench' you used that 90mm 3/8 inch one from Amazon? any issues removing the filter?

 

The filter cap assembly is very easy to remove with the tool and a 3/8 ratchet. Here's the one I have, $9 on Amazon. You could also do it with a strap wrench or even an old school oil filter tool, though having this special tool is easier. The job is not messy at all, the filter cartridge clips onto the filter cap assembly and so just lifts up after you unthread the cap.

Amazon link: https://a.co/d/64PpvP8

 

Yes, that's the one... good to read that it was successful for you as well... in my 'cart' at the big A!

 

This was queried years ago, and after lots of searching the only explanation I could find from JLR was that the catalytic converters used by JLR didn't play well with high levels of moly so they / Castrol chose to use high levels of titanium instead.
This has always struck me as largely BS and just a marketing ploy, or at least an incentive to use the special very expensive Unobtainium Castrol brew rather than some other oil which meets the JRL spec but contains more normal/common levels of moly and titanium.
Thing is I have NEVER used Castrol oil of any type/spec in any of my Jags (2010 XFS, 2010 XFR and 2014 F-Type), instead I have used Aussie brands Nulon and Penrite which contain lots of moly and SFA titanium and I have never had an engine or cat converter problem!

 

A few tips for removing the filter:
- When removing the filter element cap, unscrew it 4 turns exactly at first. That will "break the seal" of the O ring enough that the oil will drain from the filter more completely and back down into the sump where the Mityvac will extract it. After a half hour or so, you can continue to remove the filter. If you unscrew it more than 4 turns at first, some oil will leak around the top and down the side of the housing. Ask me how I know.
- After removing the old filter, pour a few ounces of fresh oil down into the bottom of the filter housing before lubing the O ring on the new filter, snapping it into the filter cap and installing it. This is the equivalent of "pre-filling" a conventional spin on filter to help minimize dry starts after a oil & filter change.
- You should use a good quality torque wrench to reinstall the filter cap. Torque to 25 Nm or convert to 17.7 ft/lbs. I bought a digital readout torque wrench that measures in the range from 0-50 ft/lbs and the reading can be changed with the press of a button. If you are trying to get accurate low value torque measurements with a torque wrench that is designed to go up to or above 100 ft lbs for torqueing lug nuts for example, you won't get an accurate measurement at the lower ranges. It is also useful on other vehicles that have a conventional drain plug that should be torqued or installing spark plugs, etc.

 

Perfect details for the job! Thank you, especially the 4 turns before filter removal. Do have a torque wrench, a Craftsman, when that meant something, but will research the digital versions.. good for the E as well as the old wood boat.

 

I think you were very wise to change the oil at 1,000 miles rather than wait till the Jag first service oil change at....(16k miles?)!

 

I had the dealership change my oil a 2500 miles. The dealership had an oil change special going on for $149.00 US so I took advantage. They thought I was crazy. Took it back at 6500 miles for the maintenance free oil change. My prior 12 year old XJ Jaguar that my family cosmetically wore out at 145k miles ran perfectly due to 6500-7500 mile oil changes I presume. I think 16k mile oil changes are not the best idea if you hold onto your vehicles like I do.

 

Thank you so much. I'd been looking into getting ramps and stuff and wasn't too excited to be underneath the car, but this made it so easy.

 

Successfully changed the oil myself for the first time since dealer-provided changes.

This YT video was the best for me:


I ordered the cap wrench from Amazon (90mm IIRC), but be sure to confirm size needed for your car.

Ordered LiquiMoly from FCPEuro (confirm correct specs for your car, this link is for my 2017)

https://www.fcpeuro.com/Jaguar-parts...=6&b=9&d=&v=25

The Mityvac 8mm 'tube' fits snugly over the 'straw' underneath the oil filler cap.

You kinda have to pull and twist the old filter to get it out. Look at the inside of the housing cap to check alignment for the tabs on the new filter.

I bought some 0W20 Pennzoil synthetic to use as a 'flush' oil... put in about half the 5 L bottle and did get some residual old out.

7.25 Litres out (as measured on Mityvac) and 7.25 L in and the oil level indicator on the instrument cluster (after about a 30 minute wait, just to be sure) was spot on.

Checked oil twice subsequently to make sure level was still good.

I have never had the oil change reminder come on in this car, even though this last oil change was 14 months ago and 4,000 miles.

We have always changed oil and filter on ALL our vehicles at no more than 5,000 miles. Oil is cheap compared to engine rebuild or replacement.

 

Hello everyone,

I currently always change the oil myself from below.
Do you have any concerns that the pump method won't remove all the dirt particles?

Regards, Frank

 

Hi Frank,

Seems the "suction from above" approach removes all but about 6 ounces of oil from the vehicle. The drain plug approach is certainly more thorough but somewhat less "convenient".

 

Just a comment on the filter? There are anti drain back valves in the block? Note this picture after removing the filter? See all that oil? That had better be there or those anti-drain back valves have failed. We have had several members where this did happen and this starves the engine for oil for a couple of seconds on every start. Not good!




So when you change oil just check that there is a puddle in the filter housing. I did not know this for a while and use to clean out the filter housing since that was dirty oil! I now have started to break the filter seal before draining the oil as Jaguar has this in their instructions. I have also seen several members who now pre fill that filter housing with clean fresh oil as they also mopped up the old dirty oil in the filter housing.

I might start to do that too? Probably makes no difference?
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