04 XJ8 111k mi,
A few weeks back I got a P1647 code, (driver side up stream O2 is bad) the recommendations here said better to R&R all 4 , ok I'll do that.
And I thought I'd change the 7 remaining ignition coils that I didn't do a few months ago (#5 failed so I just did that one) I was waiting for the next oil change to R&R the other 7
So "while your in there" might as well do the plugs to

I just finished installing 4 O2' & 8 plugs & 8 ignition coils and it runs Worse, it starts fine but driving it , it has a surge
I couldn't afford all new Denso parts so I got the less expensive brands
I used my new scan tool to see what the problem is, it only shows ( P1000 System check not completed since last memory clear )
How do I get past that code to find the surging problem, I was hoping the scan tool would take me straight to the bad part.
I have absolutely no idea where to go from here

 

Don't panic but this could be painful, depending on whether the parts are good ones. Let's for now hope they are.

Two main things to do to get data to help diagnosis:
1. see which OBD monitors are unhappy (not set aka not ready aka not complete)
2. go for a drive to warm engine up then park and look at the fuel trims. 4 figures at idle & then rev to 2000-2500 and same 4 (STFTs & LTFTs).

With luck you "just" have maybe an air leak.

 

I tried driving it but the surge is so bad it felt like it was going to stall out, I didn't want to have to tow it home.
If one of the non Denso parts are faulty then why wont the scan tool just tell me a p-code to go after just it did
when I had a bad ignition coil, all says now is > P1000 System check not completed since last memory clear
Is there another way to check it without using the method you mentioned ?

 

Can you hear an air leak when it's surging? Coils will cause a misfire, but not really a surge like that, they either work or they dont.

Are you sure all your O2s got plugged into the correct connectors? I don't know if they reach but if they were swapped it can do funky things.

I would go over all the stuff you removed during the repairs, and look for something left loose. Codes are usually only for electronic faults if they pop up right away. If something is mechanically leaking or loose it may take some time to show a fault, and it would be a generic 'system lean' code that wouldn't help you find it anyway.

 

I was driving so I couldn't hear anything , I will run the mtr w/hood up and cover off
What started all this was the O2 code P1647 it said the driver side up steam O2 was bad, Can I then assume that
since I'm not getting that code now that all 4 O2's are OK ?
I will double ck the O2s are wired correctly.

Thanks ..

 

Look in the DTC guide from JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource what P1000 means and then that one or more OBD monitor is still unhappy. Each unset one means a bunch of codes can't flag as the car cannot be sure what's wrong.

Find exactly which are unset and then you can try to set it/them.

Also, look at fuel trims to see if you have an air leak or what else.

 

P1000 just requires you to drive around with the car, so it can complete some tests.
After P1000 is gone, you either have new codes or no codes, if you managed to repair everything.

 

JagV8,
I'll try that, thanks

 

nebelfuerst,
Driving it is a problem because it surges so bad, its on the verge of stalling and needing a tow home
Today I'm going to double check everything I did yesterday -- Thank you, stand by ..

 

Did you connect all vacuum hoses ? I once forgot one and the car ran pretty unstable in idle. But there was no code.

 

I didn't need to disconnect any Vac hoses to replace the parts I did, but I'll double ck ..

 

 

Can anyone confirm If I have the O2's plug into the correct plugs
the up-stream O2 is plug into the oem receptacle that is most forward

The down steam O2 is plug into the port that is closest to the rear of the car

This is the same for both R&L banks

I should have taken a picture of the original units before I removed them but didn't

 

Looks right on the one side, I can see the Bank 1/1 sensor has the white with green, yellow wires and it is on the correct one, assuming the grey connectors are both upstream your other side should be good too, but you could always double check the wire colors.

 

The down streams are on the black plugs
&
The up steams are on the Grey plugs

I checked for vacuum leaks, couldn't find any , while it was idling it was surging

I will try to see if I can get any info by looking at the DTC codes (what ever the hell they are) I have no idea what I'm doing
stand by ..

 

Fuel trims will reveal air leaks that you can't find any other way.

How do they change when it surges?

 

I got into the OBD2 test ck box and checked the 4 sensors >
Bank 1 sensor 1 it said > (the vehicle does not support)
Bank 1 sensor 2 it said > status pass
Bank 2 sensor 1 it said > (the vehicle does not support)
Bank 2 sensor 2 it said > status pass

Should I interpret this as 2 of the sensors (B1 S1) & (B2S1) are not functioning properly
Are these the up steam or down steam units ??

 

T

 

I Googled it , sensor 1 is always up steam & 2 is down

 

Does this mean I need two new O2 sensors ?