Hi all

lately I've been having quite a few issues with my 2014 V6 S.

While driving, it starts off with the Roof not latched warning, this then clears and then the Adaptive Dynamic Fault follows.
what then follows is Park brake fault, ABS fault, Gearbox fault, stability fault, check engine light, charging system fault and a check pedestrian system warning. this has happened a few times but on the last occasion all these faults were accompanied by at EBD fault which lead to reduced performance and the car going into limp mode.

My batter has been checked, it reads 12.5V.

The dealer has run a diagnostic and they find the Body Control Module keeps losing communication with the other modules. They suspected a loose ground wire, all wires were checked and they are fine. They cant seem to pinpoint the problem. All components have been physically checked as well and they are fine so it seems to be something electrical.

Has anyone had any similar issues or have an idea of what could be causing the faults. Could it be a faulty alternator?

 

There are many cases on here where the dealer says the battery is fine, yet replacing (or charging) the battery fixes all issues. I replaced my battery this spring as a preventative measure (7+ years old). If you still have the original battery, I’d recommend replacing it. You can also try charging it, 12.5V isn’t fully charged and these cars are sensitive to battery voltage.

 

+1, dozens of threads on here about weird electrical behaviors that the dealers could not figure out and claimed the batteries were fine, only to be easily fixed by battery charging or replacement.
Not saying it isn’t something more significant but the battery is definitely the first consideration.

 

Even if it's not the battery, it's a simple "fix " to give it a full charge and take it from there. What have you got to lose?

 

It is the battery...the battery...the battery. There is almost certainly nothing wrong with the car. If you put a new battery in, make sure that it is fully charged, FULLY charged at installation.

 

Also, unbolt the negative battery lead from the floor of the boot. Take a wire brush to the cable eye and the area around the mounting stud and then reconnect. There are a couple of instances on this forum where that connection was the issue.

 

thanks for all the help. changing the battery seemed to have helped.
majority of the warning lights have disappeared. The only reaming issue is the occasional beep and then "roof not latched" warning which lasts for about a second before it disappears again. I have tried opening and closing the roof but the roof wont open at all.

 

I've forgotten which combo of battery and price has been recomended on the forum . Senior moment! Might do preventative on my '14S but have no indications. Over the years the CTEK has been left on it for a couple weeks at a time while traveling. Second battery died for second time after warranty so I never replaced it.

 

I put in a Duralast from Autozone this spring ('14 V6S) - $199, no problems, other than when I got home I noticed the new battery was damaged and had to go back for another one (and they're not light.) Inspect it before leaving. The original battery was still going strong, but seemed like a good idea after 7 years. Used to change batteries every 5-6 years.

If you'd like some weight reduction and don't mind spending more, other can discuss the Lithium-Ion options.

 

My battery was replaced with a Varta G14 battery, the terminals and ground were torqued correctly and the battery module was reset by a Jaguar dealer. My car was fine for a day and then all the faults came back. When I turn off my car, all the faults clear but then a minute or so after starting my car again, I get the adaptive dynamic fault warning followed by check pedestrian protection system and then the rest (gearbox, park brake, abs etc.)

Does anyone have any idea what it could be or has anyone had a similar experience with their car?

 

Was the battery fully charged before being fitted?

 

2 days ago I went out to start my XKR and had an Adaptive Dynamic Fault as well as E-diff fault. I suspected my battery was the culprit. I charged my battery for a couple of hours, got the car started, but the warnings did not disappear. Even though my Duralast battery is probably less than 2 years old, a couple of times in the last month or two I haven't been able to start my car and had to charged the battery for a short time to get it started. I was at my mechanic's shop checking on progress to my Pantera, and I asked him if he had a new battery on hand for my Jag. I figured if he did, I'd replace it and take the Durlast back and get a spare under warranty. We put the new battery in, and voila, all the warnings disappeared immediately. And no starting problems since, reset the windows and we're back to normal.
IT'S ALWAYS THE BATTERY EVEN WHEN SOMEONE SAYS DIFFERENTLY!

 

it was at 12.7V when it was fitted.

 

What's the reading on the battery now? Maybe your OBDII is causing a drain, or the battery has a defect, sulfation, or bad cell. Check the voltage at rest and under load. I'm willing to bet it's the battery. Now there may be something causing a drain, but it's still the battery.

 

Sorry, it was on 12.63V when installed and it's still on 12.63V now. What is the correct voltage for a fully changed battery?

 

update:
the battery was tested by a battery shop and it showed 12.63V
10 minutes later it was tested by a Jaguar dealer it showed 12.4V.
I was told by the dealer that the battery I have is wrong and the Amps are way too high. The battery I had fitted was a Varta G14 battery with the same specs as the original battery.
the car has been booked for a new battery at a Jaguar dealer on Wednesday. Its double the price of the Varta battery but i'm just so frustrated with this car at the moment



the battery test done by a Jag dealer

 

As an AGM, it should be around 12.8-12.9. At 12.63 you're at about 75% charged.

 

This chart has been around for a while:

 

For reference here’s what it looks like on a lithium battery:



Pretty much drained by the time it falls below 12.8 V.

 

My memory of an older thread here is that at least some F-types don’t charge the battery beyond something like 12.7-12.8 volts.