Sorry, but I have googled and searched for days. I’ve seen lots of posts with pictures and videos of what this symposer looks like, and how to defeat it at both ends. But what I can’t find is what to do with the extraneous parts attached that no one pictures in the middle. There’s a wiring harness that attaches to it, and there’s a hose that attaches to it, as well. Do I just disconnect the wiring harness and leave it for dead? And I notice the hose has a T that jumps off to the symposer. Do I just pull that short hose off and cap it or replace the T with a straight connector? Thanks in advance.


Connection from harness to symposer


Hose that goes elsewhere.


Other end of same hose.

Junction of hose into symposer.

T from hose to symposer.

 

As I recall, the electrical doodad needs to be connected to avoid a code. I can't recall how I dealt with the tubing but I'll take a look later once I get my work day under control.

 

I finally got my Monday under control, but not until late Tuesday. My recollection is that there was a warning when I unplugged the electrical connector so I left the actuator in place and connected, and removed everything else. I looked at my car to see how I'd solved your dilemma and the answer is in this picture. Your index finger is on a rubber elbow that comes out of the actuator (solenoid-controlled valve). I removed that line and put a cap there.


-- Steve

 

What, if any is the benefit for plugging the symposer?

 

The symposer takes sound from the intake manifold, conditions it, and pumps it into the cabin in the center of the firewall. I don't like the way it switches on suddenly and don't like the disembodied drone that seems to come from everywhere. It might be more obvious with the manual transmission, but the fact is it that I don't like it. It's easy to defeat. I wrote up the instructions that work, although I might do it differently knowing what I do now. I think that little line from the actuator to the symposer could be removed and the actuator end capped to achieve the same effect.

Removing the symposer entirely is a real pain, but gives better access to the rear of the engine. For the V6, it makes changing the supercharger oil a very simple operation.

 

This is what I had left on the engine after removing all of the Symposer. No need to cap the port as that's where vacuum is applied and that vacuum source is now blanked off on the engine. It has been reported that SDD sets a code somewhere but I have never looked for it as I don't care.



One thing that was just discovered is that this plug is exactly the same as the temperature sensors! And the rear water manifold that is in this same area has one of 2 temperature sensors on the engine. We had a post where a forum member had swapped these and had a temperature sensor error code he could not figure out until this vital bit of information was posted.

Here is my pile of junk that was removed.





One thing to note is the small hard vacuum line was broken in multiple pieces when I removed it. Broken by me or was it already fractured? Unknown. The few I have seen were also broken in multiple places.

I installed the nice BUT expensive VAP block off plate.



I did trim the mounting screws to match the length of the OEM screws but not sure it was needed. Don't think I will use the boost port but was glad to have it. Never say never!

Here is what's left on the firewall. For some reason the "Trumpet" is bright blue plastic so it really stands out when uncovered. I used a silicon plug because of the temperatures it will see in the engine compartment.




Different car as I have a 2014 XJR but it's all the same across the models.
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On the F-Type V6, the vacuum comes from a small port on the left side and has a one-way valve near the manifold. I suspect the V8 is the same but don't have one handy to check. That electric valve passes the vacuum to the symposer. That vacuum supplies other things too, such as the valves in the muffler. I haven't traced it everywhere, but I can see it going to at least two other places. The spiffy VAP plate blocks off the port used to supply sound for the symposer, but the port on it will show vacuum or boost pressure since there is no valve to it.