Simple answer "no", it's been looked into by some people in the know with all the right equipment and they could not find a way to do it.

 

Hi guys,
I have the PIECHA rear spoiler. It came with detailed installation instructions. Now think about it, Piecha is not a flim flam outfit. If there was a possible way to disable the rear spoiler without cutting the steel rod, I think they would have thought of something in order to avoid cutting the metal rod. I truly don't think it's doable without cutting the rod.

 

If you are referring to the rear F type spoiler that raises up automatically at a given speed, you just unplug it and it won't raise up.
Lawrence

 

Ubad, it is possible to do it without cutting the rod, I posted about it back a page or so as that's what I did.

 

This was not a viable solution for me, setting off code warning lights etc. If and when I need to restore the cut rod, my guy will simply TIG Weld it together and it's back to normal. easy peezy...

 

So was this all accomplished through the push-button hole on the underside of the hatch lid, or did you also remove the spoiler and/or motor cover plate from the top side?
In the end, did this indeed work, and have you experienced any codes?

 

No codes / error lights that have popped up so far. If I push the spoiler button, there is an error that pops up that says "spoiler not available" since it is disconnected when the toggle is off but if you toggle it back on, the error goes away when you turn off / on the car as it is reconnected and goes up/down as it should.

The pushbutton obviously isn't normally in there, all part of what I installed. You would have to take the top cover off to do the work that needs to be done to make it possible... that's just the most convenient spot I found to insert the switch I used so I didn't have to drill / cut anything.

 

As already mentioned NO CODES, at least on the 2015.. unplugging is a no brainer, just plug back in when you want it.. or use the toggle design others have shown.
Or, if preferred, cut the rod.. whatever works for the individual and application
Lawrence

 

Good news and bad.
Good - the new star security bits rolled up today, and the TS27 worked a charm, spoiler removed with only a slight hassle (it needs a good pry & tug to get off).
Disconnected the power plug as shown earlier, bewdy, spoiler now no longer functions.
Bad - no way I could figure out to remount the spoiler with the plug disconnected and then get it to go down. Obviously the spoiler must be in the "up" position to remove or refit the 11 mountings screws.
Looks like there is no way around it other than to cut the rod or somehow access the plug from underneath through the hatch lining while the spoiler is down.

 

You do it from under the hatch .. see prior post, my mechanic did it in a few minutes.
Lawrence

 

Yeah, I know, but how did he do it?
I've looked at getting access this way and I can't see a quick or easy way of removing the trim panels, it looks to me that damn near every panel under the hatch has to come off, as they all seem to overlap each other in several places. Obviously there must be an easier and quicker way of removing the necessary trim panels, but which one(s) and how?
Enquiring minds would like to know!

 

Unfortunately I missed the procedure itself. .if you have a local jaguar mechanic that you know well, they should be able to explain or show you.
Lawrence

 

Success!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Spoiler disabled without cutting any rods or cables, and can be re-enabled if I want in 20 minutes or so (now that I know what to do).
Step 1 - raise the spoiler and remove the two black plastic covers on the underside where the "arms" are (a gentle push from the side, inside to out, with a trim removal tool and they pop off).
This reveals two spoiler lid mounting bolts each side, Torx T30.
Step 2 - lower the spoiler all the way.
Step 3 - raise the hatch.
Step 4 - remove the two plastic covers on the underside of the hatch that sit directly under those spoiler lid mounting bolts, oval shaped with cross-hatching. I first thought they were for nothing but water drainage, but noooo, removing them gives you access to the spoiler lid mounting bolts with the spoiler in the closed position - that bit is vital.
They are not at all easy to remove, I did it by using a thin plastic trim removal tool to lever up the rubber edges all the way around, sort of "untucking" them from where they are tucked in all around the mounting holes. Only then could I get a trim removal tool in and under, create a gap, then pull them down and off using my fingers.
Step 5 - remove the four T30 bolts holding the spoiler lid on, and remove the spoiler lid (carefully!).
Step 6 - close the hatch.
Step 7 - remove the spoiler mechanism black plastic cover, around 12 "star security" 5 point TS27 screws. Once you have removed those screws grab the spoiler "arms" and tug upwards, and the whole thing lifts off, held on by some wiring.
Step 8 - disconnect the spoiler power plug, a grey/white plug a bit left of centre. I just left it loose in the cavity, no tape or zip tie, it wasn't going anywhere and it wasn't going to rattle.
Step 9 - check that the spoiler no longer works. Turn the ignition on and use the spoiler button - it should light up but do nothing, and you should get a message in the message centre between the speedo & tacho saying something like "spoiler inoperative".
Step 10 - refit the spoiler arms / black cover.
Step 11 - raise the hatch, and refit the spoiler lid (the four T30 bolts). The two plastic covers that previously went over these under the spoiler are now surplus to requirements. Before you tighten those bolts right up check the fit of the spoiler, by lowering the hatch, and adjust the fit as necessary. Fact is, per the repair manual this whole procedure is purely for aligning/adjusting the fit of the spoiler!
Step 12 - refit the two plastic covers on the underside of the hatch. Again not easy, I found the best way was to angle each of them in on one side, press that side until you got a faint click, then push the other side in, then thump it tight with a closed hand. Then using the trim removal tool tuck the rubber surrounds back.
Step 13 - go for a spirited drive and grin at the fact that the pesky spoiler no longer raises it's ugly head!

 

My! Okay, guys, here's a more specific question. The 10A. fuse that supplies the spoiler and a drive mode device has two small (~16 AWG) wires leading from it. They're hard to get to. So, does anyone know which of the two applies to the spoiler? If not, I'm gonna have to guess, cut one, and see. Then splice in a SPST switch or reconnect that wire and do the other one. In a very tight space.

 

I forgot to say that the fuse is in the panel in the cabin, left footwell.

 

Ladies & Gentlemen,
There's a reason these cars come with spoilers (and it's certainly not for their cool looks ).
One of these days, someone with a disconnected spoiler will determine that reason the hard way. Now, if you never plan on exceeding 70 mph...why'd you get an F-type?

 

+1

For the sake of aesthetics; I would be happier knowing that my **** end will stick to the road when at speed/wet, than an unknown, unproven, disaster waiting to happen IMO

The spoiler reduces the lift generated on the rear end, why negate that on an already, lively back end beggars belief.

 

As I explained earlier I don't want to give the po-po the slightest hint of a reason to pull me over, it could be instant loss of licence for at least six months.
What I didn't explain is that the maximum speed limit on any road in South Oz is 110 km/h (68.36 mph) and these days I very rarely get to drive on such a road. Which means that the highest speed limit roads I drive on are 90 km/h limit. So if the rear spoiler deploys while safely overtaking a slow poke I am sending a signal to the po-po, at a speed way under that at which the spoiler makes a meaningful difference to grip or handling. In my case disabling the spoiler is a no-brainer, but of course YMMV.

 

In the event that the cops accuse you of speeding because the spoiler was up........
Why not say that there is a fault and it comes up at various speeds. You're going to take it to the Dealers to be fixed.

 

Won't work here, they are completely **** about speed enforcement (which is why I have exceeded the points on my licence quota), they would either flatly refuse to entertain my story or demand proof of the "fault".
And I forgot to mention the other reason why I disabled it, I just don't like the way it looks in the rear view mirror.