Hi Everyone
Happy New Year

We are going on an extended vacation down south next week so I thought I would fire up and hear the Jag growl one more time yesterday.
She went into storage about a month ago with a CTEK 5.0 installed as discussed here on the forum with the positive on the bus bar and the negative on one of the bolts on the trunk floor.
I thought no battery worries for the winter.

Well it turns out the FOB to unlock the door only allowed the drivers mirror to partially extend before stopping.
Nothing else
No door opening No trunk opening by the FOB
Using the FOB to relock the door did not move the mirror back to it's folded position.
Only thing I can see inside is the red flashing red security light.
The CTEK shows a green light on number 7.

So what should I do ?
The AGM battery are known to be fussy and die unexpectedly.
Do I open the door with the stupid key and risk the alarm going off that I can't stop ?
Then open the front hood to get access to the battery and try to jump start the car ?

My warranty is up end of March 2021
Will the dealer come and tow it to the shop and fix or replace the battery if that is what is the problem.
Or can we take the battery in to the dealer to have them load test it and give us a replacement
I don't want to be driving this car in the snow here in Canada
Any suggestions or recommendations would be appreciated.
Thank you

 

Must admit that I’ve never used the key fob to unlock the car.
Can’t you just open it normally, get in and start the car?

 

No the door handle will not pop out and allow me to open the door
It appears there is no power except for the initial extending of the drivers mirror and stopped.
Only the red security light flashing on the dash

 

Put a fresh battery in the fob.
Then use the key to open the door.
If the alarm goes off use the fob to shut it down.
Once the door is open and the alarm is off open the hood and attempt to charge the battery enough to open the trunk, using the terminals in the engine bay.
If the battery is dead flat and/or won't take a charge remove it and take it to the dealership for testing and possible replacement.
Good luck!

 

Do you have the OBD battery drain issue on yours? I have it on my 2017 and discovered after state inspection (which accesses the OBD port) that even connected to ctek the rate of drain means it went dead in 2-3 days

Use the mechanical key to unlock and open the door. Alarm shouldn't sound if battery is dead. If it does sound then disarm by clicking unlock on key fob
Open trunk and connect power to the 12V terminals. Alarm may sound - if so, use fob

Then open trunk now you have power. And access the battery to see what's going on. Could simply be disconnect the battery (and the power source you put under the hood, plus the ctek of course) for 30s then charge up the battery (perhaps out of the car) and reconnect it.

 

Any chance of rodent damage to the wiring while it's been in storage?

 

First (easiest) things first - unplug/replug the CTEK and see what happens.

 

Well, here are some thoughts.

1) is the hood/bonnet open? Or is it latched?
2) can you reset or reboot the CTEK unit?

Otherwise it sounds like the following
a) depleted battery (possibly from a load that was more than the CTEK could provide)
b) faulty connection in the electrical system
c) faulty key / unlock function

I had to recently deal with two dead batteries in the past 4 weeks due to OBD2 dongles and code readers, which prevented the car from “sleeping” and which caused the battery to drain. ( I had not “reset” the car by way of disconnecting the battery after unplugging my devices from the OBD2 port).

So I recommend that you use the following sequence.
1. Use the key from inside the fob to open the door. (And leave it open... don’t close it).
2. Use the latch (mechanical) to open the hood/bonnet.
3. Get a car charger with 5 ~ 10 Amps to recharge the system via the front-right electrical port.
4. Get ready with your key fob to turn off the alarm if it triggers. (It may turn on once above 10 Volts)
5. Once the voltage gets above 10 Volts, open the boot/trunk via the electrical button on the instrument panel.
6. Properly recharge the battery in the trunk/boot... inspect the connections, voltage, etc.

Note: I have done this twice in the past few weeks, but the alarm only went off once.
It all depends upon how deeply the battery has been discharged. It sounds like yours has not been discharged too deeply because at least your mirrors moved.
After you are able to “wake-up” the car.. it is best to leave the car battery charger on for at least 10 hours.

I also added a reminder to my service manual, to reset the car (by disconnecting the battery terminal for 30 seconds) after every OBD2 port access event.

Good luck,
Herminator

 

I have dealt with this on my 2016 V6S convertible. Your battery is very likely dead. I would call the dealer and ask if you can just bring in the battery. Hopefully they will let you because I assume winter will last past March in Ontario. Personally, I would prefer to drive to the dealer on a non-snowy day in winter compared to pulling up on a flat bed.

I assume you need power to open the back to get to the battery. You can open the door with your hidden key in the fob and once in the car, you can open the hood. I have not been able to jump my car from the front jump posts but if you hook up a jumper pack or another car, it will provide enough power to open the trunk. You can then pull the battery if the dealer will take just the battery. If not, I have had more success connecting jumper cables to the battery rather than the posts under the hood but others have been able to get a jump from the posts under the hood. Good luck.

 

But the op says the ctek is indicating a fully charged battery. So unless the ctek is faulty it sounds very much like a wiring fault. My money is on rodent damage.

 

So it turns out Oz is correct battery in FOB was dead
But somehow the FOB messed with the door. That was the weird part.
Once we had the new battery in the FOB we could open the door and start the car after disconnecting the CTEK.
The CTEK is back on and maintaining the battery and on 7 with green light.

Hopefully will not happen again.
I was more than a bit worried but thanks to everyone for their helpful suggestions for this newbie with my F Type R
Thank you

 

What battery goes in the remote? Might be good to have some on hand. I could tear into my remote but does anyone know?

 

The key fob takes a 2032 cell
and i think it is on an annual replacement cycle, although they should last about 3 years.

Here is a video on battery cell replacement.
YouTube

 

It's a CR2032.

 

And will last about 4.5-5 years.

 

That's a bit optimistic in my experience ... I think mine lasted about 3 years, and both fobs needed changing, regardless of use. I've read somewhere that the fobs are always active to some extent, even if they're tucked away in a drawer at home.

 

Interesting, Jaguar specifies a CR2032, but I put in a Duracell DL2032.... close enough.
Jaguar Owners Manual Link - Key Fob

"2032" specifies the cell dimensions or format,
"CR" means it contains Chromium,
"DL" is used by Duracell


key fob battery cell 2032, CR2032, DL2032

 

Thanks Herman.