Yes.

It should do, unless you have a corrosion issue with the wiring to the back of the car. When I had a flat battery the service guy connected to the underhood terminals and it started fine (had to be quick turning the alarm off, of course!).

Well, there is a manual release in the trunk, you just have to operate it from inside. Don't you have a child you can leave in there?

 

I'm getting my NYS inspection tomorrow, not looking forward to having to unhook the battery again.

Can't say it gives me any confidence in their EVs and hybrids if they can't figure out something so basic.

 

Yes, once you restore power to the car, open the trunk (boot). Disconnect the body ground (on the body, not the battery) for a minute or two.

You MIGHT need to rest the 'one touch' window control afterwards.

Not difficult, just an annoyance. Several Topics here on how to do it, if you need pics.

 

Thank you for the info! And no, I don't have any small children to leave inside, but a BRILLIANT idea!!! LMAO.

But please clarify the alarm comment.. because that was a major issue... the horn n lights going nuts and annoying the neighbors while trying to jump it. And for that matter, when I finally got to hook up slow charger to battery, the lights were flashing slowly. By that time I had pulled the wires from the alarm horn. lol

 

When mine was done, car was running when he hooked up inspection machine, and, when it was disconnected. Maybe one of us needs to try hooking up n disconnecting with engine off. Maybe that will avoid the problem.
Thanks again to everyone on here for sharing experiences. Stay well all!

 

Don't know if this is any help, but I resesrched chargers and the batteries on the Jag, and ended up getting the NOCO Genius 10 smart charger. It has specific settings for the AGM battery in the Jag, and if battery is stone dead, it has a 12-volt power supply mode, that can bring voltage up over the 1.5 volt minimum, so the charger can detect it. Below 1.5 volts, smart charger cant begin proper AGM charge cycle.
Charger also can "repair" sulfated batteries.
Worth a look. Used it last night on 12 volt mode, and car was good today.

 

My 2017 does the same each year after the MA inspection. Just disconnect battery terminal for 20s, reconnect and all good

To the OP. If you open the car manually then connect power the alarm sounds as the car is open but alarm not disarmed. You need to press the unlock button on the fob a few times to disarm it. If you don't do that the car won't start as the immobilizer prevents it

Even then if the battery is 100pc flat it may need some time connected to another vehicle / charger before you can jump it.

 

The procedure I followed is unlock the car using the emergency key and open the hood/bonnet. Connect the positive lead to the underhood terminal. Holding the fob with your thumb over the unlock botton, connect the negative cable and press the unlock button as soon as the alarm starts. The service guy who jumped mine warned me, it didn't occur to me that the alarm would go off!

 

Had this problem when I first got my F-type in 2015; MA requires an inspection within a short time frame of purchase of a new car. Took it back to the dealer, they replaced the battery under warranty (said it was a bad cell). Happened again after the next state inspection, but by then I had started doing research and learned the battery disconnect trick (does involve going into the trunk and resetting the one touch windows, clock, etc.). I take my car out for track days, and use a dongle in the OBD port to connect to a lap timer app on my phone. Doesn't matter whether I connect/disconnect the dongle while the car is running or not; causes the same problem. Jaguar is aware of the issue, but does not appear to be doing anything about it; I ask every time I take it in for regular servicing. I now just carry a 13mm wrench in the glove box and reset the car every time I (or the state inspection centers) use the OBD II port. PITA, but there it is.

In connection to the complaint about the electric release on the hatchback so you can get to the trunk: due to the salt usage on MA roads in the winter (as it's an AWD, I drive it year round) I had a problem with a major bus bar corroding out. The car "auto-stopped" at a traffic light, and then wouldn't restart, even manually. The lack of current totally bricked the car; I couldn't even shift into neutral to push it out of the intersection. Turns out there's a way to excavate down into the center console and throw a switch of some sort to "unlock" the transmission. (nothing in the owner's manual on this, of course!) One of the tow truck drivers who came was aware of this, but wasn't sure how to disassemble the console to get at it. They used skids under the wheels to drag the car onto the flatbed. At the dealer's, a whole crowd of mechanics came out, climbed up on the flatbed and argued for a while about how to do it. They finally succeeded and the tow driver was able to roll the car off safely.

I like all the bells and whistles on the F-type, but Jaguar did a **** poor job of making user friendly workarounds for the glitches that can occur.

 

Wes, check out your Owner Manual for the Park Release procedure, page 183 in mine, copy attached.
It also helps to practice doing it, I found the little cover panel was difficult to flip off so I carry a stubby flat blade screwdriver in the centre cubby, piece of cake to remove the cover panel with it.

 

This was missing from the first edition of the manual. I’ve had a print out of this in my glovebox for many years, but happily have never needed it.

 

I've been a happy customer of NOCO chargers for many years.

 

I just went through this. I bought mine two years ago and had to put a new battery in. One day I wake up battery is completely dead. One year old, AGM $200 battery completely dead. Went to parts store they gave me a new one. Put it in. Next morning, dead. Took to dealer. They tested battery drain and found issue. They put in a new TCU and then it stopped draining battery. If your F Type is draining your battery for no reason it's likely the TCU. Once the system drained my main it also drained my SOS battery. Behind your seat is a separate battery to power the SOS system in a crash. So I had to go back and have that replaced. Took about 2 weeks for them to fix the TCU. Two more days for the SOS battery.

Here's what my receipt says, "UPDATED TCU AS PROMPTED, TCU FAILED. TCU NOT RESPONDING, SUBMITTED T/A, T/A PROMPTED TO R/R/ TCU AND CONFIGURE NEW MODULE. R/R TCU AS REQUESTED. TCU FAILED CONFIGURATION AND IS UNRESPONSIVE. R/R TCU an additional attempt as requested. TCU configured and is responding. Updated as outlined in wsm. Updated BCM as outlined in WSH. Datalogged quiescent relay box 1 and 2. Performed Quiescent current drain test and found a reading of 10mA. Test passed. Checked and found no further faults present. "

 

Thank you for that info. Good to know.
So far it has only happened after inspection, but will mention TCU check yo dealer next time.

 

I have had reason to plug an ODB meter into my car twice and both times the battery goes dead rapidly. he first time I kept getting the low battery warning and had to disconnect and reconnect the battery, which cleared the warning, The last time I had someone jump me and the warning didn't come on. Are you saying I should disconnect the battery each time, to prevent the battery from rapidly discharging again even if I don't have the low battery warning?

 

Did you ever find out WHY plugging something into the ODB socket causes this?

 

Yup, every single time. If you drive it literally every day it might not drain enough in between for the warning to come on but once it sits longer, all bets are off.

 

It seems that some devices when plugged into the OBD2 port do not fully turn off the car's electrics when unplugged, no matter what you do.
I have used various OBD2 devices/plugs over the years including the VAP hand-held tool, two different iCarsoft code readers and two different ELM 327 plugs, and never had a single problem with battery drain.
To my knowledge no-one has yet figured out the why's and wherefores of this difference.

 

Thank you for the additional info.
I haven't yet tried plugging my code reader into the car since I bought it last year. But right after purchase, and now again, a year later, the car was inspected, and both times, battery went dead within days. Maybe inspection machines hit the OBD system differently than readers, and hang up the power down module.
Fun n games, huh?

 

Hi All,

I'm new to the forum so please go easy! I've just taken the plunge and bought a MY15 V6S with 27k on the clock and I am getting the battery drain issue which results in the low battery warning and eventual non starting of the car within a couple of days. Dealer has replaced battery today, but after 4 hours of getting home I checked the voltage of the battery and its already depleted to 12.48v. I suspect by the morning this will be a lot lower. I haven't tried the disconnect method yet as a) my car has a tracker fitted by the previous owner that is connected to the battery and apparently i need to get a specialist to remove it, and 2) my triangle hazard light goes out after a few minutes, which I believe seems to be the key indicator that a reset is required.

I'm really at a loss as to what to do. I love the car but can't be dealing with a totally drained battery if I don't use the car for only 3 days or so! Does anyone have any idea what would be causing my battery to drain this fast? My thoughts are it could be the tracker, but most other sources say these draw very little power when the car is off. Any input would be really greatly appreciated.

Thanks