Like you, I had assumed the front jump point would be in parallel with the battery. However, I believe more than one person has reported the trunk release doesn’t operate with power from the jump points if the battery has been disconnected.

 

I don't know why not. I guess trying it out is the best way to find out. true it may not work with just a charger, but I have used this trick on jaguar and land rover. the land rover did not even have a battery installed at the time, and it worked fine.
oh well, what ever works....... or not

 

I had this problem yesterday on my 2017 F type S British Design edition. Battery drained 100%, also disconnected in the trunk. Locked out. I got in to the car by using the key that is hidden in the key fob. I was able to pop the hood once I got the door open. I could not pop the trunk (battery dead). I hooked the terminals under the hood to a battery charger. Once there was enough power, the car sets off an alarm/beeping and you can run to your trunk and pop it open. Then reconnect the cables. I found it on Youtube yesterday. Here's the link, hope it works. You may have to leave the terminals attached under the hood for a while to have enough power. Hope it works.

 

Since we're on batteries for this model, would anyone know where to find the code on it to see how old the battery is? I'm in my car for a year, It's a 2017 and I'm not sure if battery is original or if it has been previously replaced.

 

Go here and look up the chart on that page: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...6/#post2340506
My battery does NOT have the four digit code stamped into the top of the negative battery post, instead it has a six digit code stamped/cut into the top of the battery plastic.
In my case that number is 458121 which tells me via the 458 that per the chart my battery was manufactured in October 2014 which exactly matches the car's build date in Topix.
Thing is, that is not how I first found the battery manufacture date, instead there is a post somewhere around here which I cannot find which has a link to a Varta website where you key that six digit number in and it brings up the battery manufacture date.

 

LBCGirl, thanks for posting, will give this a try. Although I don't quite see how connecting a charger in front makes a connection to the battery when the positive cable is disconnected. That was your situation?

 

Connecting the charger in the front gave enough power to the car for me to open the trunk, which then gave me access to the battery in the trunk.

 

You're not catching the key information. The OP's battery was DISCONNECTED. It sounds like yours was not. That's what he's asking.

 

Yes, I did get that point. I had the same situation.

 

The positive lead of your battery was not connected? It sounded like you simply had a dead battery, not one where the cable was taken off.

 

LBCGirl, thanks for the response. How long did it take for you to hear the alarm/beeping after connecting the charger? I know "results may vary" but some idea would help.

 

Wcats, when I had a dead battery due to the ol' ODBCII drain, it took less than 10 minutes.

 

WCats,

It didn't work immediately, so I left it charging and came back in an hour. It might have worked quicker, but I didn't try.

 

No luck on opening the trunk so far but I am hopeful. In the meantime i am palnning ahead. If i need it taken to my service guy is there a way to get it out of park with no power? I know there is the emergency brake release mechanism in the center console but this is different. Is there a release to go from Park to Neutral? I searched here but everything seemed to go to the emergency release.
Thanks all.

 

That is exactly what the emergency release mechanism in the centre console does - unhook the Park pawl and put the car in Neutral.
It is NOT an emergency brake release, it has no connection to the brakes.

 

Thanks, I thought it was correct. I'll give it another go.

 

Well, our long national nightmare is over, at least mine is - I am up and running.
I had it towed to my mechanic.
He got the trunk open by connecting a bit of power through the trunk release fuse point. That was pretty straightforward.
The electrical issue not so much. Battery was good but it would not start, same flickering and intermittent power issues I had experienced. With some good detective work he traced the positive cable from the battery to the engine bay and found that the Starter Junction Box was full of water. No crack, it was closed and taped but not leak-proof apparently. The water led to corrosion of the wiring in the cable which led to corrosion of a soldered joint in the middle of the cable itself. It seems a very unusual design - his words.
There are two diagrams, one the wiring diagram with an indication of where the break in the cable soldering occurred, the other a simplified drawing the mechanic did.
I have no way of knowing if the junction box was ever opened after it left the factory but either way it was a poor job of closing and sealing the box.

Thanks to all who offered comments and advice. Strange set of circumstances.

 

I would be more interested in seeing how and where and what he used to jumped the fuse to open the trunk!

 

Rondog - My mechanic's comments: Feeding into the left (driver's) side fuse box in the engine bay is a heavy red wire similar to a battery cable. For those who can actually read a wiring diagram, on the wiring diagram I posted earlier this is the wire to the left of where he indicates the break was; it is marked "Red C1BF12F" (since you like red you should like this wire). He spliced into the wire, used a 12v power pack and a bolt for ground, and got power to open the trunk. I took a look, the wire is very obvious.
Hope you never need this.

 

could you post a photo of the Starter Junction box? Just to make sure I check that out.