It's almost time to replace the original battery in my 2015 F. One of the on-line parts houses gives two choices, both AC/Delco. One is 49AGM and the other is 49AGMHR. Has anyone installed one of these? Did it fit correctly? How much is a replacement from the Jag dealer? Any other suggestions for a replacement battery? Thanks.

 

The OEM battery lists for $440 but can be acquired for $297 online.

 

Are you sure it needs replacing?
I have a Oct 2014 build MY 2015 F-Type and the original battery is still going strong, five and half years after it was first installed in the car.
This is the first time I have ever had a car with an AGM battery and on all other cars (including two 2010 XFs) I replaced the "ordinary" flooded cell lead acid battery every four years or earlier.
The other difference is I pump mine up with a battery maintainer / trickle charger once every two weeks or so and I have never done that before.
Moral of the story - check the condition and charge of your current battery, feed it with a maintainer, and you may find it is still good to go for a few more years yet!

 

Thanks for the info guys. From what I've read here on the forum about the hassles of batteries gone dead, I figured I'd be proactive in replacing an almost 6 year old battery. I can easily enough load test it. It's been my experience with other newer vehicles that they don't give any notice of impending battery failure. One minute they work, the next minute they don't. I was looking into other battery fitments so as not to have to pay $297 or more.

 

From my research some time ago the correct OEM replacement battery is a Varta G14, 95 Ah and 850 CCA with the correct size/dimensions and terminal post placement.
Not exactly cheap though, best I can find in Oz is $499 with free postage, so around $300 US at the current crap exchange rate.
You may have better luck over there finding the same or equivalent for less $.

 

Bill

in the past the R at the end of the model number did mean the terminals were reversed. This can make a difference.

my MGB, positive ground, uses a 26R. 1963 model.

as the f battery is long and narrow I doubt it matters.

we have had success with AutoZone batteries.

 

it does matter. The negative lead on the F-Type is awfully short. It won’t reach over to the outside of the battery.

 

I have just had the 2nd battery in my 2017 FType S replaced(fortunately by the dealer) at 9800 miles I only drive it 1-2 times a week, as I use my XK8 the other days, and I am retired, so seldom work regularly. This replacement came after the installation of a remote transmitting OBDII. Some have said this is the problem. When the dealer check the car for the replacement they only found a 'Bad battery'. Does anyone know if these OEM batteries are made by Lucus??

 

LOL, a Lucas joke?



Lucas got a bad rep because they gave-in to the British auto industry's demands for Product at a Price.

I have an '80s British car, and 95% of the electrical gremlins are a result of BOSCH. I have a 2000s American car and the gremlins are Valeo. Or grounds.

 

My OEM battery has a Fiamm label on it.
Fiamm is a large Italian battery/energy company.
Doesn't mean the battery is actually made in Italy, it's just the company JLR source their batteries from, more than likely they are made in China like 95% of such products these days.

 

My battery also says FIAMM on it. I checked it out on the internet, but was not able to make sense of their web site as far as the correct battery and where to purchase. They do have a presence in the US.

 

It is my understanding that in the US there are only a couple of manufacturers.

just different models.

My Autozone MG battery has to be 10 years old.

 

I suspect most batteries replaced by the dealer never needed replacing. Certainly, replacing the battery fixes the problem as the battery has to be disconnected (battery management module reset) to be replaced. If the dealers and JNA would ever listen to their customers, they could save a bunch of money on batteries replaced under warranty (unless they hold the OEM liable for the warranty claim). To this day, my dealership denies any knowledge of the OBD issue.

 

I believe its an OBDII issue. Every year I have jaguar do my state inspection with my annual service and every year I have to disconnect my battery after I get it back or my battery will drain because they plugged the little device into the OBDII port. I purchased a gps gismo that plugs into the OBDII and within 24 hours got an alert from said device that I had a low battery. I just got my state insp this week, and sure enough....low battery. I even told them to
disconnect the battery afterwards. I plan to try and have them trouble shoot it since I will have the time off next month but from what i've read here, I wont have much luck.

 

I had a similar GPS problem. I plugged in, and within a week, had a dead battery. Recharging did no good, even after I removed the device. I am now hesitant to even plug in an OBDII to check anything. If they ( cars/OBDII) are this bad, how have they been used all this time.

 

We should all keep in mind that the OBD was developed as a diagnostic tool, not as an ancillary power supply. Just reset the battery module every time you plug into the OBD port.

 

Wonder if anyone with a ‘14 has had the OBD battery issue - I haven’t. Only thing I’ve plugged into OBD was the VAP programmer, though the car is due for its 8th inspection soon.

Will likely change the battery this year - have to decide between AGM and LiIon.

 

I've had battery issues with my 14 V8 S. I've experienced random faults, the inability to start the car, no dynamic mode, and the OBD access issue disabling the car. A new battery from Jag helped for a few months, then more of the same although a trickle charger eliminated no-starts. I wondered if maybe the problem isn't the car at all, but weak/crappy OEM brand batteries.

I put a $175 Duralast AGM Platinum 1000 CCA battery in and I have had zero issues going on 2 years. That includes routine OBD access with a Foxwell diagnostic tool, a cheap $10 Chinese TorquePro dongle, and a Head-Up display all switched-up regularly. So installing a good battery was the 100% solution for me. I still trickle charge if the car mostly sits for a few weeks (the charger plug shown takes a spring-coiled ceiling-mounted extension cord that I run into the trunk) but that's a left over habit from OEM.

 

Can someone tell me where on the original battery the manufacture date is stamped?

 

No such thing. I have an OEM battery on the shelf and carefully inspected all 6 sides. The QR code on top refers to the CW battery model number that's printed on that same label.