When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The dealer just called, he said the battery was fine, but there was a loose connection between the terminal for the eco start-stop system. Not sure why that would result in the engine not cranking without a jump??
They reconnected that, but I'll go and pickup the car toady and look into the trickle charger.
The Battery Tender Plus does exactly the same thing as the CTEK and is the #1 seller in the US. It's also less expensive (under $50 everywhere).
I have 3 of them, some of which are 10 years old and working perfectly. One BT Plus keeps 3 wired togther, heavy-duty chassis batteries on my diesel motorcoach topped off.
+1 for the Battery Tender Plus. Best battery maintenance unit I've had. The CTEK unit is smaller, but the BT Plus seems to have more robust options and works with both lead acid and gel batteries.
It looks like you have it wired to the main battery. The only problem with that is your maintainer won't charge the 2nd battery for the start-stop system.
This is how JLR recommended wiring a maintainer when they were offering them as options. Red maintainer wire in top of photo goes opposite yellow wire in the battery bus compartment. Black wire from maintainer below is bolted to the car ground on the trunk floor.
However I don't think that will be a major problem. Worst case is that the start/stop battery will go totally flat, and might need a replacement. But I think I will still be able to start the car.
well my car didnt crank because they said the connector the eco start stop battery was loose
The odd thing about the dealer's explanation is that many have disconnected their eco-mode battery to defeat the system without having to press any buttons or change driving modes. I haven't seen any reported problems with that.
I honestly don't know as I've left mine connected. It doesn't bother me, and I even use it in gridlocked, stop and crawl traffic.
That makes sense unless a dead eco-mode battery still connected causes other faults.
If nothing drains the eco-mode battery when the car is not running, I would guess it does not need much charging (if any) when the car is not used for a while?
The main 90 ah battery is something else, as it provides power to the alarm, "sensing systems" (for the remote key) etc.
But I would think that the eco-mode battery will be able to "survive" for a longer time without charging....(I hope?).
Another "interesting" thing is that the Users Manual says that the jump leads in the engine bay is for just that - jump start.
For charging the vehicle battery, it says that the battery must be disconnected and removed from the vehicle before charging.... It is probabely just as a safety precaution, but still a bit odd....
If nothing drains the eco-mode battery when the car is not running, I would guess it does not need much charging (if any) when the car is not used for a while?
The main 90 ah battery is something else, as it provides power to the alarm, "sensing systems" (for the remote key) etc.
But I would think that the eco-mode battery will be able to "survive" for a longer time without charging....(I hope?).
Another "interesting" thing is that the Users Manual says that the jump leads in the engine bay is for just that - jump start.
For charging the vehicle battery, it says that the battery must be disconnected and removed from the vehicle before charging.... It is probabely just as a safety precaution, but still a bit odd....
Yes, it also makes sense that the eco-mode battery isn't subjected to the parasitic drain the main battery is.
That is correct that the main jump leads in the engine compartment do not charge the 2nd battery because they are only connected to the main battery. However, if you wire it through the battery buss as pictured above, it does charge both.
The last couple of days my car has failed to start the first time I got in and pushed the start button. Locking/unlocking, opening and closing the door, etc. has worked, but I wonder if this means I am going to have an issue in the near future.
New member here. My 2015 V6S would not start this morning. Fortunately I have another car to take to work. I have a CTek unit that plugs into the cigarette lighter. It worked great with my Porsches. Is it safe to use on the Jag if I try all the steps posted earlier and it does not work? I have a call out to my dealer. Thanks
I don't know for sure because I've never used or trusted the plug-in types of maintainers, but the F-Type 12v port does not remain hot all the time as it does in some cars. That might render the bat maintainer/charger inop.
I've always direct-wired a "pig-tail" plug-in to the battery wiring to connect the maintainer. However, alligator clips work just fine as well.
Got it started when I got home from work last night. However the check engine light would not go out. Called Jaguar USA and the car is being flat bedded to the dealership. Not happy but what can you do.
16R still having significant issues trying to start. Get in, key fob on the center console and hit the start button, dash lights up but the engine won't turn over. Takes 5-10 times before it will start. Guess I will schedule my first trip to the dealer with 700 miles. Hoping this isn't a sign of things to come.
16R still having significant issues trying to start. Get in, key fob on the center console and hit the start button, dash lights up but the engine won't turn over. Takes 5-10 times before it will start. Guess I will schedule my first trip to the dealer with 700 miles. Hoping this isn't a sign of things to come.
I think it is a Jaguar issue. There are dozens of threads on this site that recommend battery replacement to remedy all kinds of issues. The electronics are apparently very sensitive to voltage, and the unique Jaguar charging system allows over 15 volts right after startup for something like ten minutes in order to top off the battery. This causes short battery life and a host of issues with other electrical components. Anything less than a perfectly functional, fully charged battery is asking for trouble; I plan to replace mine annually. I also plan to check grounds and other connections more frequently.
My car sat in inventory in BFE for many months before I snagged it. The battery is not perfect and will be replaced at the 15,000 mile service. What I mean by "not perfect" is that the car throws some goofy codes that go away after I use the Ctek. It always takes at least 24 hours to get a fully charged reading on that gizmo. This is on a daily driver that I drive 20 miles or more nearly every time I use it.
I think those of us who are new to Jaguar may have to adjust our concept of maintenance to include some things other cars do not use up quite so quickly. Batteries, light bulbs, electrical parts, water pumps and hoses, supercharger bearings, timing chain tensioners, suspension bushings etc. all wear faster or fail earlier on these cars than on other makes.
Last edited by Nookieman; Aug 7, 2015 at 08:51 PM.
