Yep so you stated. You may have the same Gateway Control Module issue or your battery may be suspect. If you want to check the module, put a voltmeter on the car and see what it does as you drive. The cigarette lighter ones are less than $20 on EBay. If the readout drops to 12.1 or 12.2 with occasional spikes up to 14.6 then you have Gateway Modulitis.

My old battery tested fine but I replaced it because it has never been perfect IMHO. I don't have time to get jumped, towed, etc. when it completely gives up. This car has to be 100% reliable or I will move on to one that is.

 

I will get one of those devices and check it. But, I hate to fix something that hasn't broken yet, and have had no issues of any kind other than long battery top-off times.

What did they do to correct yours, software reflash or module replacement?

 

Software reflash

 

Got the car back yesterday afternoon. The fuel pump was replaced. There were no electric / battery related glitches. Ran great on the ride home and started with no problems this morning. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that this was a fluke. I'm still going to get a battery maintainer for the winter months.

 

Went to the dealer this morning to try and address the starting issues I have been having. About two weeks ago, my 16R stopped turning over when I would press the ignition button. The dash will light up and the stereo briefly turns on, but it takes anywhere from 2 to 10 times of pressing the button before the engine will turn over.

My dealer was unable to find anything "wrong" with the car, but was able to replicate the issues getting it started. They have passed along the issue to JLR N/A and said there is an open bulletin on the issue, but they couldn't access it this morning. They are hoping someone will get back to them with a solution.

I'm not very happy given the car was only 1.5 weeks old when I started having issues. I hope this is something that gets resolved fairly quickly. Electrical issues and crappy electronics are what have kept me in German cars for the last 10+ years and I am starting to think I made a poor decision by switching.

Also, the dealer noticed my hardwired V1 and tried blaming the issue on that. I put an end to it very quickly by showing that it merely taps into the harness in the rear view mirror, but with the starting issues, my decision about upgrading the stereo or putting in a LIDAR jammer became very clear. Not taking that chance given the car is already prone to electrical issues and open the door to them denying warranty coverage down the road.

 

A bad brake switch or harness is my guess, as it sounds like the car does what it would do if the brake weren't depressed when you hit the Start button. But just a guess.

 

That was the first thing they checked and they said it wasn't the issue.

 

So an update from my side on this issue. I recently moved from Seattle to San Francisco (drove the car down myself on 101 and CA-1!)

After 2 weeks of moving here, I got a giant "Low Battery, Please start engine" warning on the dash. I took it to the local dealer here - British Motor Cars and they replaced the main battery.

They also performed a couple of TSB's - fuel neck filler, torque nut for suspension

Hopefully, this is the last of it an no modules need to be replaced.

One thing I'm slightly peeved about is I mentioned to them that after a couple or 3 hours of driving I noticed some sort of burning smell in the car and to verify it their tech basically took the car home on an "overnight test drive for 65 miles" and couldnt verify the issue. When they returned the car to me, the radio was tuned to a hiphop station and Sat Radio was tuned to Howard. So I'm guessing the tech basically took it on a joy ride home and didnt verify the burning smell issue.

Oh well, atleast they fixed the bad battery hopefully.

 

Hmmm, Ferris Bueller's Day Off?