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Just wanted to share some pictures of the paint correction + Cermic Pro 9H application... picked my car up on the 3rd day and took a few shots to show the amazing IRR color after it's been coated. I kept the original image sizes so it's easier to see.
It's amazing how "flawed" the paint is from the factory. I also used the Ceramic Pro Gold package on mine. It looks wonderful.... your car looks perfect as well.
My F-type has the same color as Yours and I gave it the same treatment one and a half year ago, but with a different but rather similar product (Gtechniq Crystal Serum). Very happy with the result, and the protective coating (including the shine) seems just as good now as it did when it was new.
The only negative is that XPEL (and similar) protective film will not stick to these kinds of treated surfaces - at least that is what I have been told by several supliers of these protective films. So if you want to have XPEL as well for the most exposed areas, you better put that on first.
My F-type has the same color as Yours and I gave it the same treatment one and a half year ago, but with a different but rather similar product (Gtechniq Crystal Serum). Very happy with the result, and the protective coating (including the shine) seems just as good now as it did when it was new.
The only negative is that XPEL (and similar) protective film will not stick to these kinds of treated surfaces - at least that is what I have been told by several supliers of these protective films. So if you want to have XPEL as well for the most exposed areas, you better put that on first.
There has been a bit of controversy regarding this matter. My detailer who in an earlier life worked with xPel to develop the wrap, firmly believes in using a protective coating before applying the film. In my case he used cQuartz. He has since moved on to what he considers to be superior: CeramicPro.
The key to successful adhesion of the xPel to a coated surface is to carefully and patiently apply the right amount of heat and pressure to each square inch of the film. Not coating the surface before applying the film will allow the adhesive chemicals to permeate into the paint.
That is very interesting to hear Unhingd.
I think I need to follow this up closer, as there are some areas where I would like to have better protection against stonechip.
Maybe they have gotten some more experience now?
That is very interesting to hear Unhingd.
I think I need to follow this up closer, as there are some areas where I would like to have better protection against stonechip.
Maybe they have gotten some more experience now?
Do not expect any of the coatings to protect against stone chips. Their primary purpose is to protect against swirls, light scratching and environmental contaminants (e.g.acid rain) and to maintain an easily cleaned high gloss. The sections of body where you expect stone chips (front clip, rocker panels, etc.) need to be covered with film.
Do not expect any of the coatings to protect against stone chips. Their primary purpose is to protect against swirls, light scratching and environmental contaminants (e.g.acid rain) and to maintain an easily cleaned high gloss. The sections of body where you expect stone chips (front clip, rocker panels, etc.) need to be covered with film.
I know. That's why I would like some extra protection on those areas
Nice! Did you dip the rear leaper? Curious, cos I like the no letters and black leaper...
No, I painted it myself using a gloss black enamel & clear enamel to seal the paint... I posted about it in a debadge thread going on somewhere on the forum. I wanted to make sure I had that done so it can get coated as well.
For others that are considering the black leaper-only emblem/letter removals, there is a seller on Ebay that comes and goes that sells the black leaper for $10 shipped. Same exact size/shape with mounting adhesive.
IMO - debadge w/ black trim looks great; if chrome I'd probably leave them vs Plasti-dip etc. Just washing/waxing without all that clutter in the way worth it.
You mind if ask where you got it done and what the cost was. I know you said you didn't want to disclose that on a public thread, can you communicate it through a private message?
Your car looks great. I'm picking up my car this weekend and I'll be taking it to my detailer next week to have him apply opti-coat to it. I will also have him add some paint protection film to a few areas.
There is a local Portland detailer that will do Opti-Coat including paint correction for $1400. From what I've read, Opti-Coat is 90% as good as 9H and will last 2+ years if car is kept indoors, much longer if always garaged.
Opti-Coat can also be purchased for DYI application on Ebay, Amazon, etc.
Last edited by Burt Gummer; Dec 17, 2016 at 09:42 PM.
Reason: meant INDOORS
There is a local Portland detailer that will do Opti-Coat including paint correction for $1400. From what I've read, Opti-Coat is 90% as good as 9H and will last 2+ years if car is kept outdoors, much longer if always garaged.
Opti-Coat can also be purchased for DYI application on Ebay, Amazon, etc.
Opticoat actually as a 5 year warranty. The detailer provides their customers with a warranty card after the work is done. I don't know much about 9H but optic oat was great on my last car. It made keeping the car and wheels clean easy.
Ceramic 9H Installed
